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Thread: Cutting bit...doesn't

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Kiel, Wisconsin
    Posts
    251

    Default Cutting bit...doesn't

    Hi guys, a newbie here.
    I bought Juicy Carps machine about a month or so ago and I've finally finished the cabinets I was making for my wife. NOW I get to start playing with my Carvewright. Problem is it worked once and now the cutting bit will not spin.
    I made the practice shell from the first tutorial without any problems (I know it's a simple thing for you guys but Iit blew me away).
    Today I wanted to carve the Love Laugh Live project and the motor for the bit just doesn't come on. I did get a message before pushing enter to begin cutting that said "check cutting motor". Didn't know what it means or how to check on it so I pushed enter and the bit moves back and forth, up and down but its not spinning.
    What did I do wrong?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,168

    Default

    Do you have a dust collector that may be holding the cover up a little? There is a cut motor cut out switch under the cover on the right side. Lift the cover up and down and listen for the click.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Kiel, Wisconsin
    Posts
    251

    Default

    That is possible, About to eat dinner now but I'll go out and try after we're done.
    Thanks I'll let you know if that works.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    VA.
    Posts
    64

    Default

    sounds more like he needs new brushes for cut motor

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,900

    Default

    Since you are new at this the clear cover has 2 switches. One on the keypad side talks to the computer and tells when the cover is open. The one on the right is a Cut Motor Safety Switch. When the cover is open or that switch is open it prevents the cut motor from starting up. Keeps you fingers safe.

    So you understand how it works... The Black Wire from the X Termination Board from under the machine comes up and goes to the black wire of the cut motor. Black is considered the hot wire. Once the black wire goes through the cut motor it comes out as the white wire and this white wire goes to one of the wires of the right cover switch either the black or white since it is just in and out of the switch. The other wire of the right cover switch goes to the white wire from the X Termination Board. So it is just in and out of the switch. The wires are in the back right corner of the machine. They sometimes get caught on the COOLING FINS of the Z Motor and it can pull the push on connectors disconnecting them.

    ALSO if you don't remember to push the wires into the back right corner then sometimes they get in the way and the head cannot reach the bit plate.

    So next has been mentioned above... When the Cut Motor Brushes get TOO SHORT they have a copper teather and it stops the brush short of getting the metal spring in the moving parts... When the brushes get too short.. The Cut Motor will not start.... Tapping the top of the cut motor with a screwdriver can let you run the motor again for a TEST... But know that you need to replace the Cut Motor Brushes and to NOT Cut a project.... IF the motor stops during the cut you could snap a $40.00 PLUS bit.... The part number for the brushes are CB1 for Carbon Brush 1. They are METRIC and I highly recommend you use the LHR part... A ACE Hardware Brush Could be TOO LONG or TOO HARD or the Tether TOO LONG and the spring gets into the spinning parts... Someone posted about using NON LHR brushes and was Real Proud of themselves until they destroyed the motor....

    It is ALSO highly recommended to replace the Y Gear Box 2 inner bearings with the Cut Motor Brushes EVERY 250 Cut Motor Hours... They are 5 x 11 x 5 MM Metric or 685ZZ the ZZ is metal Shield both sides. http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html

    And to save on Shipping you should order some common repair parts at this time.. FSC Cable, Board Sensor, and X Drive Gear.

    Good Luck,

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC06139.JPG   DSC01471_WEB.jpg   DSC01461_WEB.jpg   DSC01462_WEB.jpg  

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    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 11-10-2013 at 06:21 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Kiel, Wisconsin
    Posts
    251

    Default

    It was the cut out switch. I tried to do the carve again and it started then stopped, I put a little pressure on the cover and the motor started back up and continued to carve the whole thing. I'll have to watch that in the future, maybe do a little adjusting on the dust collection hood.
    Thanks a bunch for the tip and thanks to you other guys for the additional info. It's good to know that I can reach out on this forum and have people willing to help.
    I have a lot of learning to do.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    The Colony, TX - Suburb of Dallas
    Posts
    295

    Default

    The folks on this forum are great! Whenever I have an issue, an answer appears very quickly.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rolla, Missouri
    Posts
    3,418

    Default

    I had a strange open cover error this weekend. It turned out the cause was the top cover screws were loose so it was not being held down properly and the cover was slightly askew. Snugging up the screws did the trick.
    Happy carving , Jeff Birt

    Check out www.soigeneris.com for CarveWright Accesories.

    Home of the 'Carving in the Dark' back lit LCD kit!

  9. Default Centerline cut depth

    I'm really not new to the forum just haven't visited in a long time. I think it was about 2006 I bought my first machine now I have 4. A lot of upgrades and fine tuning later. I'm back to ask about Centerline text. I've been using software version 1.179 for a long time I didn't upgrade because I was happy with it and it gave me almost no headaches. My computer crashed and I had to reload all the software, my files where recovered ok. I had to upload the version 1.187 and now the Centerline text cutting bit depth is not as deep. The same files with the same text and size as the 1.179 version are getting islands in the 1.187 version. I make a lot of signs using the Centerline text, by that I mean 100s. Thank god I have the 1.179 on another computer but it's old and slower. Can you help me out? Either fix this problem or go back to the 1.179 version. I contacted support and they started to help me but now they are not answering my emails. The last email I got was from Connie and she said it works fine in version 2.0.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Nuevo, CA
    Posts
    1,842

    Default

    When you clean up after each carve, vacume out the bulk, then use your air compressor ( don't have one? - get one now!) and Blaw our down beside both sidesw of the belts, the rollers - especially the keyboard ends whine you move them up and down, the board sensor, and both cover switches.
    Clint
    CarveWright StartU team member
    Web Site WWW.clintscustomcarving.com

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