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Thread: pocket cut paths

  1. #1
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    Default pocket cut paths

    I have done this before but I was a little vague on doing it right the first time. It cuts the carve time almost in half. Thought I would post and have someone proof read it before I wasted wood. I used nominal sizes but if I want to make the .25 slots to .22 slots and the .5 to .44 I'm having problems comprehending on how to do that. and I'm using a 1/8 cutting bit for the pockets or if a better bit can be used...this second one I have no idea how to do the vertical slots..pattern 4 is my attempt
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    Last edited by aokweld101; 09-11-2013 at 08:27 AM.

  2. #2
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    This is my version of a pocket cut and you should be able to see what I've done.
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  3. #3
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    you must of used the 2.02 I'm still in the 1.187 but I'd like to see it...lol

  4. #4
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    Sorry about that...........there you go!
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  5. #5
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    I thank you for the heads up on this I had the right idea.. I am going to have to change a few things but think I have it thanks again..

  6. #6
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    I made this slot sample board. Considering Humidity changes the physical board, but it is a quick reference when I need to make slots. I use the designer numbers for the select slot to get me close faster...


    Just an idea that has helped me... Takes all the math out of it...


    AL
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  7. #7
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    al, I have to say your boards went right over my head I would assume different sizes on the different slots that don't tell me how each one was done I am guessing that you put in your documents when all said and done.

  8. #8
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    A few things to consider when cutting out pockets:


    1. The bit follows the path in the same direction as you used when you created the path.
    2. Starting or ending the cut on the sides of the pocket can mess up the sides.
    3. Make the path go in the y direction as much as possible to reduce tracking errors and x gear wear.
    4. Make the cut in a single continuous path so the bit stays down the whole time.
    5. Space the paths less than the bit diameter apart. (Reduces the bit load and eliminates the "thins".)
    6. If you start in the center and spiral out, go clockwise. (Counter-clockwise will climb mill.)
    7. If you start in the center and spiral out, make the last cut go all around the pocket perimeter and then go back in to end.
    8. Turn off labels when drawing!


    Think of how the drill function cuts out pockets. I think the problem of pockets is really a complicated subject worthy of continued experimentation on our part. It may be that a future version of Designer automates it for us.

    Here is an example of one of the ways I do it.
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    Last edited by bergerud; 09-11-2013 at 10:08 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by aokweld101 View Post
    al, I have to say your boards went right over my head I would assume different sizes on the different slots that don't tell me how each one was done I am guessing that you put in your documents when all said and done.
    I just drew rectangles and set the depth. I increased the size in the edit increasing the size as I went.

    I just used a rectangle and assigned a depth with the 3/8 end mill bit. I call it the 1/2 inch in the picture but it was 3/8.

    I can't find the file but it is in the pattern thread from a few years ago.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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  10. #10
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    bergerud this is following what I think you were trying to tell me to do..I started on the long pocket cut right to left going clockwise... and the vertical from center top outward in a clockward motion, I hope I have it right..thanks good Buddy. I didn't do the first two verticals I didn't want to go in overload..lol I'm looking at the vertical and l think my clock is running backwards and I think I should of started on the other end of the long cutout.
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    Last edited by aokweld101; 09-11-2013 at 08:38 PM.

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