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Thread: New 1/8" cutting bit causing serious overheating problem

  1. #21
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    Dec 2008
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    Port Byron
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    I have been having the same problem. I've told LHR that they need to give us the control of which way the cutter is turning. the problem is we have this 1/8" bit that
    sticks out the holder 1-1/2" and climb cutting, I can't get them to understand that we shouldn't be cutting that way due to all the vibration which in returns causes fiction
    and heat. what I've done is made my own holder, so now all I have to do is go to MSC and buy an 1/8" end mill for $15.00 rather than paying $40.00 dollars and having
    it last for one or two projects. I wish somebody at LHR would understand "NOT TO CLIMB CUT".

  2. #22
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    Jan 2007
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    NE PA USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtaz View Post
    I have been having the same problem. I've told LHR that they need to give us the control of which way the cutter is turning. the problem is we have this 1/8" bit that
    sticks out the holder 1-1/2" and climb cutting, I can't get them to understand that we shouldn't be cutting that way due to all the vibration which in returns causes fiction
    and heat. what I've done is made my own holder, so now all I have to do is go to MSC and buy an 1/8" end mill for $15.00 rather than paying $40.00 dollars and having
    it last for one or two projects. I wish somebody at LHR would understand "NOT TO CLIMB CUT".
    I am having trouble understanding what you say is wrong? I understand Climb Cut to be the direction the bit is moving along the length of the board. If you did a rectangle then one side would be a climb cut and the other not... Since the Bit is Computer Controlled and held in position with servos with a appropriate feed rate... The bit would never really have an opportunity to run away along the grain of the board.

    So then it comes down to properly setting up the cut in Designer taking into consideration the Wood Density where you would be more Conservative with OAK and MAPLE than you would be with soft pine. Since we don't yet have a Feed Rate control we DO have a Multi Pass Cut and can select HOW MUCH to cut in each pass. Effectively the same as Feed Rate since a slow full depth cut or many faster shallow cuts is effectively the same.....

    This is a Hobby Grade Machine and it runs on Roller Bearings.... 8 for all the Axis.... And with that many bearing surfaces you must be conservative with the cuts. Then we have Rubber Y and Z Drive Belts. And lastly, the most important part... The Z Truck... A Carve Tite or Rock Chuck is best.... We have all seen the burnt Cutting Bits from the days when WE used our WORN OUT QC longer than we should have. The Burnt Bits were Directly Related to the Bit flopping around inside the cut... The side pressure causing heat....

    Bits only lasting a project or two... That is a MECHANICAL PROBLEM... I have been using the same cutting bit for over a YEAR.... No burnt, NO snapping... I maintain my machine and I am in tune to what it is doing... I have posted before.. I rip off a section of the sand paper belt at the brass roller as I do many 6 inch wide sign and handle boards and it causes the belt to wear and become tapered on one side causing the drift... IF I was not in tune with the machine watching the drift... IT could cause a Broken BIT

    A Carve Tite and Rock have bee show to be Superior in holding the bit in place and stable. Are you using a QC?

    Anyone who is seeing burnt bits needs to take a close look at the mechanical of the machine...

    1. Y Gear Box... The 2 inner bearings... IF worn can let the bit "Hunt" back and fourth even though the servo is holding it tight to position... Think of it as using a Softball BAT but keep your hands LOOSE.... Same theory...

    2. Loose Servo Motors....

    3. Loose Roller Rail Bearings....

    4. Worn out rubber Drive Belt as in the Y Belt...

    So tell me again how a shorter bit from someone else is better.... Besides price? Just be sure you stay away from the Roto ZIP bits... They BEND since they are not solid carbide and will destroy your machine when they bend...

    This topic was worthy of a NEW Post.... A picture of your Bit Setup from MSC would be NICE and also a picture of Burnt Bits.

    AL

    I blamed the new Designer Change for the Burnt Bits... I was WRONG.... You can SEE the BB Marks in the bit Holder... I failed to see them and understand the REAL PROBLEM.... You can look at the picture dates and find the old posts where I was WRONG...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC08185b_WEB.jpg   DSC08185_WEB.jpg   DSC02198_WEB.jpg  
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 09-09-2013 at 09:16 PM.
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  3. #23
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    Dec 2008
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    Port Byron
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    Believe me, your preaching to the choir.
    all I want to do is tell the machine what direction to move when doing a cut out. I'm going to try a left hand end mill and see if that doesn't make me happy.
    I'll try to get some pictures of my collet and I even made my own Flex shaft Pivot Assembly out of D2 that's another story in itself.

  4. #24

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    The problem that I am having is bit related. My old bit works fine. My new bits have a tighter spiral and run significantly hotter, to the point of starting a fire. There is no difference in direction of cut between the two - or difference in material, project, feed rate, roller bearings, you name it. The only difference is in the bits.

    Frankly, I do not understand why direction matters when doing a cutout. If truly milling an amount of material less than the diameter of the bit, I understand it would make a difference. But when cutting ,the entire diameter of the bit is pushed through the material - I don't see how moving left to right versus right to left would make a difference.

  5. #25

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    I finally got around to trying some different bits. At bergerud's suggestion I picked up a Freud 1/8" spiral upcut router bit, $21.97 at Rockler, and put it in my ER11 chuck. It cut nicely and measure temperatures were in the 120-130 degree F range, same as the old cutting bit. I will be using this for cutting 1/4" Baltic birch going forward.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #26
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    And how does it feel to know it will never break? That is a big one for me.

  7. #27
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    Aug 2007
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    North Carolina
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    What kind of bit then for 1/2 material? And 3/4? That ones does look perfect though for 1/4 inch.
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  8. #28
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    I have a 1/8", two flute carbide with 1/2" LOC (see picture) and a similar 3/16" with 3/4" LOC. (I also have 1/8" and 3/16" with straight shanks with varying LOC up to 1". )
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ER11M 2.JPG  

  9. #29
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    North Carolina
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    Freud as well? For both?
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  10. #30
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    The 1/8" in the picture is Freud and I think the 3/16" is also. I cannot remember for sure.

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