Polyacrylic vs Polyurethane vs Lacquer?

[KeystoneChuck]

Having trouble with getting good info on the three pro's and con's. Called Minwax today and they were helpful if I was going to finish my kitchen floors but not so helpful for signs. I wanted to know what you guys were doing for finishes on pine and cedar. I'd love to work with better woods like some of you guys but the customers don't want to pay. I tried maple and red oak and my competition keeps pounding away with the pine signs. They honestly look like a three year old made them (his, not mine I hope) but his prices are so cheap. I've been holding my own with the pine signs but I just wanted to jazz up my finishes. Here comes the "catch" I have a one week turn around with all of my signs, so speed is something to be considered. I have been on youtube and it would be great to make the bench and spend the next three weeks finishing it but I don't have the luxury. I have leaned toward the water vs oil based just for the turn around factor. Any input? I do mostly V-Carve and Raster signs. I'm at about a 60/40 mix for indoor vs outdoor signs. I think I want to concentrate on the classier indoor signs since my competitor concentrates on the outdoor camp style signs. Again a nice maple would be great vs pine but I sell my products in a town called "Cheapsville USA"

[Ton80]

Just remember outside will have to be a spar varnish ( polyurethane ) as the regular or polycrylic won't hold up outdoors and don't have UV blockers. I can't say anything about laquer because I haven't used it but it's what most cabinet shops will use. It dries very quick and doesn't required sanding between coats so for speed, that might be your best option for the indoor stuff. You can get pretty fast and good results using Minwax wipe-on poly but it could take a few days to get the finish on if you are in an area of high humidity like this jungle like climate in NY... Their spray ( aerosol ) version of Polyurethane looks really nice but you have to make sure to get all your coats on before the last starts to dry or you're told to wait 72 hours. I have had some minor "orange peeling" with that product but I think it's because of letting a little too much time slip by between coats because other uses have yielded very good results.

Polycrylic is going to be the better choice over a white paint or something you don't want to amber. The oil based stuff will add an amber tone which I happen to like. I have used Polycrylic a number of times but find it to look more like plastic.. if that makes sense. Takes away some of the warmth of wood.

You mentioned Cedar... don't use a polyurethane on that because the natural oils in Cedar will cause the finish to flake away over time. You would need something formulated to be compatible. Penofin makes stuff for that purpose of the top of my head.

[KeystoneChuck]

Thanks for the info. Do you know if it is OK to use the polyacrylic on top of the cedar? No stain; just straigt polyacrylic. I know exactly what you mean when you say it has a "plastic" look to it. I just did some sample boards (pine stained & unstained) and thats wxactly what I was thinking. Looks very nice, just not at warm as wood could look.

[RogerB]

The uv rays from the sun will make it dry and peel. Do a sample with floor oil this is very nice .Easy to take care of. Hotels do there dance floors with car oil.the more coats the more shine.Just a thought.

[mtylerfl]

...Hotels do there dance floors with car oil.the more coats the more shine.Just a thought.

That reminds me of a guy who sold carved (with a jigsaw and router) decorative mirror/planters back in the 70's. All of them were made from Pine and all of them had the same gray/brown "stain" finish. They looked really good and I asked him what he used for the finish. He told me he had a 55 gallon drum filled with used motor oil gathered from various car repair facilities. He simply dipped the pre-assembled mirror/planters in the oil, wiped them off and hung them up to dry before installing the mirror. Cheap and fast! (and maybe toxic?)

[KeystoneChuck]

A little too enviromentaly friendly for me. Fast yes,but...I just checked out a method on youtube where the guy used baby oil followed immediately by kiwi shoe polish. It was done on a 3d carving. Thats my other question, all of these videos are for taking a flat board/project and putting a killer shine by buffing it up. What if you can't buff it up, say a overlay or raster carve. It has tons of nooks and crannies that you can't get a rag into or to get the stain/poly into you have to cram the brush into them. Then that poses a problem of "smushing" a brush or foam applicator and introducing air.

[RogerB]

Michael T
There is better oil out the this is an example. Oil finishes for floor have a oxide additive to make them harder and last a lot longer.

[mcQ]

For exterior use Epifanes Gloss Clear Varnish is probably one of the best finishes avalible. http://www.epifanes.com/products.html
Another I use on the teak swim platform and trim on my boat is a 2 part Palgard Polyamide Epoxy by Pratt & Lambert which gives a beautiful bartop like finish that lasts for years even in the marine enviroment.

Erwin

Erwin Products, DUST DEVIL
417-449-7760
http://erwinproducts.com/erwin_products_004.htm

[Ton80]

A little too enviromentaly friendly for me. Fast yes,but...I just checked out a method on youtube where the guy used baby oil followed immediately by kiwi shoe polish. It was done on a 3d carving. Thats my other question, all of these videos are for taking a flat board/project and putting a killer shine by buffing it up. What if you can't buff it up, say a overlay or raster carve. It has tons of nooks and crannies that you can't get a rag into or to get the stain/poly into you have to cram the brush into them. Then that poses a problem of "smushing" a brush or foam applicator and introducing air.

This is an interesting problem when applying a finish that needs to be buffed between coats. I have found using a sanding substrate that conforms to a carving works well. You don't need to be too aggressive and get every single buffed. Also handy in this type of work would be a spray finish that is not sanded between coats like lacquer. Minwax sells aerosol lacquer if you don't have spray equipment.

[mtylerfl]

A little too enviromentaly friendly for me. Fast yes,but...I just checked out a method on youtube where the guy used baby oil followed immediately by kiwi shoe polish. It was done on a 3d carving.

I think I found that video...a guy applying the baby oil and Kiwi brown shoe polish on a carved wooden mask. I am definitely going to try that!