Sled problem

[aokweld101]

DickB, I looked at the rollers and I couldn't build them that cheap thanks for the link and your reply.

[Ilonaco]

I like to use a sled with absolute straight hardwood runners and masking tape on the bottom of the side that goes over the brass. That and the two support rollers from Harbor Frieght solved this problem.

[Ilonaco]

I use a sled and hot glue 4 inches on each end so I don't waste any wood. Works fine if the rails are good.

[rbrown]

still fighting with it. I have tried just rails only and built three different lighter and lighter sleds, checked and rechecked the clearances. Even tried to making the pattern smaller to see if it would work with just the board only and that isn't working either. Tried masking tape and duck tape. Figured out it make a difference on the color of the masking or duct tape it doesn't like blue or black colors to cover the end spaces of the rails. I'm trying to put a 5/32 wide slots 3/16 deep 1 inch apart fully across and centered on a 6 foot particle board shelves bought at home depot. I bought adapters and the 5/32 cutting bit and telling the software I'm using the 3/16 inch cutting bit. Worked on a two foot test board just can't get this 6 footer to track each time. It doesn't seem to error in the same place each time it measures the board which is frustrating... Sometimes it errors on one end then the other or from the center. or where ever it "feels" like it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Rubber Belts or Sand Paper? The Sand Paper Belts CAN roll under at the Brass Roller, especially the one at the Brass Roller and under the Cut Motor... I make it a habit of ripping off a 3/8 to 1/2 inch piece of the belt and watching the movement over time I had to rip it 2 days ago when I went to cut some more tags.

By ripping the belt: 1. The board makes better contact with the Brass Roller..... YOUR possible Rolled Under Belt may raise the board off the roller by the extra thickness of the belt. and 2. Prevents broken X Gears when the belt rolls under and jams the X Gears.

Also un plug the machine and remove the bottom and check the tightness of the 4 screws going into the bottom of the 4 smooth rails that the machine head rides up and down on.

Also set up the project as a place on end... THEN it only measures off the front end....

For ME, I do many 6 inch wide boards and I believe that is why the belt on the brass roller half gets worn and more flexible then the unused right side. It makes belt tapered like a funnel. "IN my opinion....."

AL

[rbrown]

My sand paper belts are brand new and tracking perfect and the machine only has 3 (now 4.5) hours on it. I bought it used...

I'm thinking I should have bought a real cnc for what I want to do. This measuring the board each time is a real pain.
Would be nice to set the board in, tell it where the corner is and hit go.

I finally got it to do one board but it shifted the lines or when I wasn't paying attention did the same spot twice because it skipped the last two slots.

So I put the second board in and now I'm back to the same problem.
The only difference I can see is, the second board sits about 1/16 of an inch higher in the sled on one end.
I cleaned all the sawdust out of the machine.
After trying playing with it for 3-4 hours I called it a night.
I have 20 of these boards to do....

What I had to do to get it to work is build 2 - 7 foot outfeed tables made from poly finished plywood and had them set 1/32 of an inch lower than the out feed rollers and spread super fine sawdust over both of the outfeed tables. Plus I left the adjustable inside guide 1/8 of an inch away from the sled.

It's a waste of material if I have to buy 4x8 sheets to make 6'7" foot boards to cut off 3.5 inches on each end. If the sled is the problem... I have done just plain smaller 4 foot boards that worked.

I'm going to totally check over the machine and see if there is something loose...
I just didn't want to rip into it, since there is so little hours on it.

If that don't work... I'll just to do them by hand and leave this machine to do baby stuff. I have wasted so much time and money building sleds and out feed tables, I probably could have had built a jig and had them all done by now.

[liquidguitars]

I have a boat load of sleds.... can I see a photo of the sled in question?

[liquidguitars]

I'm thinking I should have bought a real cnc for what I want to do.

not a bad idea but...

I helped my Son not log ago to make a sign for a movie project for his production co in LA, The letters where cut out of a 8' x 10" x .25" and 4'x 10" board taped to a second board the same size but .75"
no issues I did not even have backup rollers. The CW worked really well, even ran a pass 45 chamfer on letters. the sign finished a 12'

[Digitalwoodshop]

Question? Which direction are the Groves? Do they go in Width or Length? If Width, do they go from edge to edge? IF so, then the rubber roller is falling into a grove causing less pressure on the board on the pressure roller. A Picture of the problem cut and posting the mpc would be worth a 1000 words... Since you stated that one board worked until the end and if I understand correct, the board failed to position in X or length due to the board loosing contact with the brass roller....

We are back to basics.... I understand your frustration....

Things to check off and report back when you tear into the machine.

1. The 4 screws on the under side of the machine that go into the 4 smooth posts... Are they tight...?

2. With a board in the machine and a bit in the chuck. Move the Z Head to the top mechanical pin stop. On the keyboard, Options, Sensor Data, Z Data. This will display the Z data as 0000 where ever the head is when you turned on Z Data. The Z Motor has a encoder that makes pulses. Move the head to the left edge of the board and touch the bit to the board. Note the reading. Move the head to the other end and touch the board. Note the reading. This will show if your head is level. IF the Brass Roller SIDE of the head was HIGH, that could cause this problem.

3. Remove the Right Side or non keyboard side and then the dust cover on the X Gear Box. Clean any sawdust and inspect the gear teeth. LOOK for a missing tooth.

4. Take a marker and mark the Right Side Metal Roller that the Sand Paper Belt rides on in the middle of the machine. Marking the current position. This will aid you in seeing a Rolled under belt later... A Reference Mark on the Roller near the gear box.

5. The Brass Roller has a little piece of RUBBER under the Assembly that pushes UP the Brass Roller.... MANY times users have reported that the little piece of rubber has been SUCKED into the Vacuum and long gone.... I suspect it is gone..... And causing the problem....

6. Try a project using place on END. Are you using Center on Board?

And a picture of the failed project too...

MANY WAG's here..... Wild AL Guesses..... So many questions...

AL

[rbrown]

Before I run over to the shop, I was doing some poking around on the forums and saw where on the Brass Roller says it is supposed to have an O ring on it. I don't remember ever seeing one on my machine. I have an A version Craftsman Machine Is that supposed to have one? And if so, what size is so I can grab one before I get there, just in case. My shop is out in the boonies...

Will answer the other questions and take pics for sled and first board after I get back from the shop later on tonight.

Also thinking about the skipping the last two slots... After the last version of the sled, I forgot to change the board size, I made the headers from 2x6 inch pine dimensioned and mitered to fit over 3/4x3 Red Oak rails and it sits above the rails 5/8 of an inch with 5/8 wide pine side rails. So the board length will be off. Can't remember how much I left of the 2x6 under where the board sits. But I know it is longer then originally planned.