Cutting 2D shapes from Hardboard. Need carrier

[TurtleCove]

I'm going to be cutting some 2D shapes, out of some 1/4" thick Hardboard. I don't know what Hardboard is made out of, but it's some kind of composit. At my hardware store it's simply called Hardboard.

I'll be cutting out simple cut-paths, from Designer. Think of it like cutting out jig-saw puzzle pieces, using the 1/16" cutting bit.

My plan is to buy some 3/4" thick Melamine, and simply put some dabs of hot glue, or 2 sided tape, between the Melamine and the Hardboard, thus my Melamine is my carrier board. At first I thought about using that pink insullation board as my carrier, since it comes in various thicknesses, but I think that stuff will compress from the roller pressure.

Is this Melamine carrier the best for what I'm doing? Seems like it should be simple enuf....but just wanted a sanity check from the gang....

[fwharris]

You could also use MDF or plywood as it might be a bit cheaper. Note that when you do the cutout if will cut into your carrier board a small amount..

[TurtleCove]

Actually, MDF may be a better way to go...more stable too.

Yes, I realize the bit will cut into the carrier a bit too, which is why I was trying to think of a way to use insulation board (easier to cut, thus minimizing cutting stresses).

Thanks.

[Digitalwoodshop]

As you can see by this picture, I use PVC Board. I also cut a little deeper into the PVC Board as I like Crisp edges on my FRP tags. I also use 1/4 inch strips of double sided tape to hold the loose tags in place as I don't use tabs as they fracture when cut.

I bought some Melamine for a sled but have not set it up yet. My sled will be a Vacuum Sled with the Mushroom Screw Hole Plugs providing the space for a hardboard top. The Hardboard top will have holes drilled to let the vacuum hold the tags made on top of the hardboard. A different hardboard top for each size tag.

As for the Bottom.... I recommend masking tape... Strips every 2 or 3 inches along the length of the carrier bottom and the Brass Roller Strip. At least that is what I have done with my PVC carrier. I added a second layer of tape this year as it was getting thin at the edge.

And as you can see, I put a 4 inch piece of scrap material at the head end and use place on end or corner. That lets the board only measure once.

AL

[TurtleCove]

Al, what is PVC board? Is this something most hardware stores carry? Is this something the 1/16" cutting bit should cut well, as long as I stay in 1st gear?
I'm needing 1/4" thick cut-outs, with very clean, crisp edges. I thought Cast Acrylic was my only option, but I'm liking the sound of PVC board...if I can find it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

PVC Board is plastic trim boards used by builders. Here is a link.. http://www.azek.com/azek-to-mill-atm/

It comes in many sizes. I like the 1 x 12 boards. It has a smooth top and bottom coat and a slight Granular Center. Mills well and can be glued with PVC Cement.

Expensive... About a $100.00 for a 18 foot long 1 x 12... It comes in 4 x 8 sheets too. I like it for Sign Letters as long as you mount it on a stable base like plywood or another PVC Board...

Not sure about 1/4 inch PVC board...

Also check out the same FRP or Fiber Reinforced Plastic I use for my tags... About .090 thick. I get it from my supplier that puts a hard ploy coating on it that I print on. But I found it in Single side at my Home Center... Used here for Summer Camps... Bathroom and Kitchen Walls. I am using it to make numbers with black Vinyl for a Softball Score Board. Comes in Smooth and Dimpled.

If you are going to be cutting out the same shapes and they are big enough for a Vacuum Jig... That might be the way to go... That way you can cut them without tabs.... Since the 1st gear trick only works without tabs... as a vector cut...

I have a Veneerer Vacuum Motor, a Vacuum Switch that I will wire into the cover switch... If a part looses vacuum the machine will shut off... I bought boxes of the mushroom shaped hole plugs. I will drill holes in a carrier board on a 1 inch grid for the plugs. Seal the sides and place a replaceable hardboard top. Design the project then go in and place the drill holes to let the vacuum in... Place a new sheet of hardboard on top of the hole board and do the cut with the vacuum holding the parts... EASY.... I have not done it yet...

I don't know if the Double Stick Tape trick will work well with hardboard. Might let go... and you can't do the 1st gear without tabs... UNLESS placing manual tabs will work... Remember something about that in the past...

And in my opinion the 2 speed cut path will snap the 1/16th bit doing a full cut... 2nd Gear will push or feed faster than the bit can clear... And 1/8 inch Cut Path Bit will leave rougher edges...

This machine can be a real work horse if LHR would give us a 2nd gear inhibit during a Cut Path... As in... Tabs AND a slow feed rate....

Even making Acrylic Quilt Pattern tools is possible here too.... In Fluorescent colors.... Granny get your WALLET....

AL

[TurtleCove]

For my application, Al, I need my plastic to very rigid. The shapes I'm cutting out, will always be under 6" long, and 4" tall, but they can't flex much. I'll go to my Home Depot later today, and check out the pvc board, but I'll bet it flexes. Flex might be fine for a fire-tag, but my plastic needs to be pretty rigid. Acrylic might be my only option.

Can you run the pvc board thru a planer to get it down to 1/4" or 3/16"?

[dcalvin4]

Duck_Whirlygig_LRW545.mpc can any one make this a raster and have dimension [2d effect INSTEAD OF A VECTOR CUT]
thank you
denny

[fwharris]

The PVC board if very machinable, just make sure you have a dust collection system on you planer or your shop will turn into winter wonder land.

[lynnfrwd]

Duck_Whirlygig_LRW545.mpc can any one make this a raster and have dimension [2d effect INSTEAD OF A VECTOR CUT]
thank you
denny

Denny:

You should start a new post under Pattern Help, not in someone else's unrelated thread.

I assume you are looking for a 3d effect to raster carve. 2d is vector cut.