Table top finish

[DickB]

I got a request from a customer for a table-top version of the lake maps that I carve. The top must be smooth. I've been experimenting with two-part pour-on finishes, namely Envrirotex Lite and EasyCast, in preparation for this project. My first thought was to stain the carving as usual, then pour on the finish. That's the sample on the right. The finish typically is poured onto a flat surface, but I confirmed with the company's tech support that it would work fine on carvings 1/2" deep or more, and it did work quite well. Tech support also suggested an initial pour with their EasyCast to fill in the carvings, then a final pour of Envirotex Lite. I decided to try some blue transparent tint in the initial pour, which produced an interesting effect. The blue did bleed a bit into the wood, so if I do this again I will brush on an initial thin seal coat. (A seal coat of this type is recommended for porous woods like oak, to prevent bubbles from forming.) While the tint is interesting, it does mask some of the detail. So I think I am going to go with the stain and the single pour.



It's hard to capture the depth and gloss of the finish in photos. Since these were just test, I did not bother to make a complete pour for the sample on the right, but obviously the table top will be 100% covered.

[CNC Carver]

Dick the change in the blue color was just because of the change in depth? That would be an easy way to finsh lake maps. No need for tracing edges.
Thanks
Jeff

[DickB]

Yes, that's it exactly.

[badbert]

What an interesting effect! I can't wait to see the finished project!

[spalted]

Cool idea Dick.

I did a pour over carved table a couple years ago. I think I posted some photos here.
We also do a lot of pour overs with Envirotex on tops that are not carved.

Seal it up very well before you do the pour over. The end grain that is exposed by carving seems to be much more susceptible to producing air bubbles.

I can't recall her name, but I have spoken to a woman at Envirotex on several occasions. She really knows what she is taking about and is very helpful. She has done a lot of pours I think. She doesn't just read you a manual over the phone. Don't be afraid to give her a call if you have any concerns or need ideas. She has came up with some useful an creative solution for me in the past.

[lostparts]

I use the Envirotex system alot. Bubbles are a pain on any large surface. If you are quick, a heat gun will pull them out, but if you are doing a large surface a shaker table will fix them right up! If you find your self doing alot of larger pieces, make friends with the local counter top maker's. Find a guy that does concrete pour tops and ask to borrow his shaker table. My borrowed table on low for 4 hours perfect every time.

[DickB]

Thanks for the advise. This is a small end table, about 14" x 26". For the stained version I use a polyurethane and stain combination, so it did seal the carved portions and should prevent bubbles from the end grain. If I go with the blue tint, I will apply a thin seal coat first. I still have not decided which way I'm going to go with the project. I did not have much of an issue with bubbles. Some formed and migrated to the surface on their own, and most then popped by themselves. The rest I removed by breathing on them per the instructions (supposedly the CO2 pops them). Sounds like I talked to the same knowledgeable woman at the company.

[lostparts]

I have used food coloring to die the envortex. What a wonderful effect I build alot of model train tables the effect is crazy nice for small ponds and rivers.

[wlkjr]

There is a spray that will pop the bubbles. It has been several years since I poured any epoxy and I can't remember what it was. Worked great for me. It came in a about an 8 oz. pump sprayer.

[wlkjr]

I dug this up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5uSTYNURJ0