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Thread: How often does the CW breakdown?

  1. Default How often does the CW breakdown?

    How often does the CW breakdown? I am not going into detailsbut my new CW stopped working on the first day on the first project. I have hadit for a week and can’t use it. I am waiting on a part that I hope is in themail.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wylie, Tx
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    1,680

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    The key to most (not all) breakdowns is keeping up with maintenance on the CW (ie... keeping as clean as possible and lubed). I just got a new CW a couple of weeks ago and it's been running fine. I did notice the flex shaft getting a little warmer than I thought it should, so I took it out and lubed it... no more issues. Maybe it really wasn't necessary and it was just a "break in" characteristic, but for my piece of mind I lubed the flex shaft since it certainly couldn't hurt anything. I always clean it after each project carve. I have an air compressor and I blow out the CW as best and much as I can. I also wipe the excess sawdust on the rollers and blow out at the ends of the rollers while pushing up and releasing them. Do this to make sure I get any sawdust that may have worked it's way up in there. I do this each and every time and have had no issues. I have a 2nd CW that I treat the same way and it's working fine too. The 2nd machine I bought used (less than 10hrs) because the person said he was constantly having issues and errors showing up and stopping his project. I brought it home, took it apart as much as I knew how, blew it all out, lubed what needed lubing and cranked it up. It runs fine... no issues whatsoever for 6-7 months. This is not to say that since there are electrical parts and such that something does not or will not ever break. I just buy parts that I hear about that go out on others on the forum so when the time comes... I'm ready. So that's the way I work with my 2 machines and "knock on wood" ... all is fine. I sure hope I didn't jinx this cause I'm on my way out to start a new project! LOL
    JerryB:.

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  3. Default

    I hope it doesnt jinx you too. I see the point on buying extra parts ahead of time but I don't want to by parts that are under warranty. As far as it being clean it was new out of the box and it stopped working. It is the board sensor that isn't working. I know that has to be a common problem because the tech toldme I was the third one with that problem on that day. I also assume everything would be lubed out ofthe box. When I get the part and get itrunning I will be sure to lube everything. what if you have a project that will take 5 or 7 hours to carve? I know you can stop it and vacuum it out as long as you don’t lift the head. Is there a time that is too long and couldcause too much sawdust to stop the machine?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    2,250

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    "break down" is probably not a word I'd use to describe my machine...

    I do get an error or something that I have to workaround on just about every other carve, but I have figured out how to troubleshoot the problem and have (luckily, knock on wood) only had to swap out two parts, a flexshaft and the sensor-- and only because I still need to open the other one up to clean it out...

    As much as maintenance, I think the key is learning your machine and figuring out how to make it work.... (sensor error... perhaps blow it out and then change the lighting or put tape on the board if it is dark...) (roller error... check for rolled under belt and peel off 1/2 inch or so..and ALWAYS use tape) (z axis error... check the depth on your bit and make sure there is not a hole in the plastic by the brass roller... if there is, put a dime in) (bit error? ensure the flag comes out... I have a hole in my cover for my dust collector and just move mine out by hand for every bit change "just in case")

    None of things I would consider "break downs", but they are things I have to troubleshoot...

    Another thing I'd really (really) advocate is to start off simple and work your way up. I am quite often surprised at the high-level of carvings that some folks do for their first few carves... extra wide boards, 2 sided carves, cutouts, etc etc...

    I really took things slowly at first, simple carve with 3.5 inches on each side of the carve and in the middle of a medium sized board... no bit changes or vectors... eventually I moved on to centerline/vectors, cutouts, and 2-sided carves. Finally I tried doing a couple of really wide carves where I had to glue up boards. This slow build created a level of comfort with my machine. I can tell what it is going to do before it does it and if it does something different I stop things to figure out why... You'll also get to know the sound of the machine and if it is happy--

    Just my .02- maybe I've just been really lucky

    Lawrence

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    5,314

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    Quote Originally Posted by airborne369 View Post
    I hope it doesnt jinx you too. I see the point on buying extra parts ahead of time but I don't want to by parts that are under warranty. As far as it being clean it was new out of the box and it stopped working. It is the board sensor that isn't working. I know that has to be a common problem because the tech toldme I was the third one with that problem on that day. I also assume everything would be lubed out ofthe box. When I get the part and get itrunning I will be sure to lube everything. what if you have a project that will take 5 or 7 hours to carve? I know you can stop it and vacuum it out as long as you don’t lift the head. Is there a time that is too long and couldcause too much sawdust to stop the machine?
    Do not vacuum out a machine during a project when the machine is still on!! Static electricity from the vacuum will ZAP your $300 controller!!
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    Quote Originally Posted by airborne369 View Post
    I hope it doesnt jinx you too. I see the point on buying extra parts ahead of time but I don't want to by parts that are under warranty. As far as it being clean it was new out of the box and it stopped working. It is the board sensor that isn't working. I know that has to be a common problem because the tech toldme I was the third one with that problem on that day. I also assume everything would be lubed out ofthe box. When I get the part and get itrunning I will be sure to lube everything. what if you have a project that will take 5 or 7 hours to carve? I know you can stop it and vacuum it out as long as you don’t lift the head. Is there a time that is too long and couldcause too much sawdust to stop the machine?

    I see Lynn jumped in just like I did.... Seeing that quote... "VACUUM it out".... In the most famous words of the Robot in "Lost in Space" a 1960's TV Show... "DANGER young Will Robinson..... DANGER....."

    What has us reacting is that many in the early days would post... "I was doing a long project and I stopped it in the middle and VACUUMED IT OUT and Now my machine is DEAD?" What happens is as the Wood chips flow through the plastic hose of the Shop Vac they produce a Static Charge in the area of THOUSANDS of Volts.... This Static can ARC to the Wires and Components inside the machine and make it to the Controller KILLING IT... And like Lynn said... $300.00 PLUS please...


    So refrain from using a Vacuum Cleaner... YES, some here will post "No Problem, I do it ALL the time".... And Yes, they MAY.... But not all Vacuum Cleaners are made Equal.... The More PLASTIC in the Hose the Higher the Static Voltage.... Some Top End Shop Vacs have Carbon built into the hose to dissipate the static to ground...


    This was your 13th post and I am sure I have already pointed to Tips and Tricks as homework....


    A Board Detector going bad this soon is unusual but it does happen....


    The Standard to test the Board Sensor is to place a sheet of white copy paper on the board and crank it down. Move the head over the board and use Options and Sensor Data and Board Sensor to read the reflective energy of the white paper. A 156 is perfect... a 90 is a dirty lens. I have posted in the past pictures of what happens if you pull too hard on the bottom wires for the board detector and the top wires slide along the sharp edge of the Y Truck and pinch and short.... Be Gentel...


    Good Luck....


    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    panama city beach,fl
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    1,886

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    Iv'e had errors come up on my carvewright and thought the machine was awful touchy, I'm finding out that It is all in the matinance and understanding in what does what on the machine, I'm sure there are future problems that don't know yet but can find someone here in the forurm that will help me..I'll be the first to tell you it the dumb things you do that make you smarter..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
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    Looked at the paperwork and your board sensor tested 156 and 152 right before shipment. I still suggest watch video under maintenance and blow (blast) pointed as directed. New one is still on the way.


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  9. Default

    Thanks for the info everyone. I will make sure not to usethe vacuum when the machine is on. I will also star on smaller projects andwork my way up. I did all the troubleshootingsteps before calling CW. I went to the owner’s manual and tricks and tips aswell but still good to know. The good thing is that everyone here on the forum and the CW employees have been a great help.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    7,962

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    Just in case you have not seen/found the trouble shooting section
    http://www.carvewright.com/support-p...hooting-guide/

    As for vacuuming with the machine on, make sure you are in contact with the machine (place one hand on the inside top tray) and never let the hose come near/across the keyboard side of the machine. This is where the static discharge will jump to the fastest it seems.

    Good job on reading through the tips and tricks. They offer lots of great info and those with small projects are a good way to learn design features and the machine operation.
    RingNeckBlues
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