Dust Shoe Prototype for the Carvetight

[bergerud]

Henry, there have been questions as to how deep one can carve or cut with the Rock while the window is in. Can you carve 0.8 deep and cut 1.0 deep? That is, can the Rock chuck do this and stay above the window? I think it can but maybe you could test if it is true.

(If you are asking about bearings, tell them the seals have to keep out fine dust. Maybe there are other types of seals.)

[henry1]

Henry, there have been questions as to how deep one can carve or cut with the Rock while the window is in. Can you carve 0.8 deep and cut 1.0 deep? That is, can the Rock chuck do this and stay above the window? I think it can but maybe you could test if it is true.

(If you are asking about bearings, tell them the seals have to keep out fine dust. Maybe there are other types of seals.)

Will try tomorow, will get back to you and if even if the window was not there the vaccume still make a good job of it quote/ am I the only one that is trying this test , as far as I am concern the unit works great

[Sallen1215]

I have to re-carve my pipe but i like how the suction is doing, for my rock chuck i plan to cut the hole in the top cover slightly bigger to allow movement unrestricted

[JLT]

Dan,

Spent the better part of yesterday and today tweaking my variant of the dust shoe...

* Went back to True Value and picked up the Dishwasher Drain Corrugated Hose Kit that I had seen earlier and regretted passing on. It met all the requirements... relatively large diameter, light, flexible, semi-rigid, and as a bonus, a rubber connector on the end that fit nicely over the nozzle of the shop vac. One major unexpected drawback though... it caused an EAR PIERCING SCREECH when drawing air through it... easily 2-3x as loud as the machine! So, for the time being am sticking with my improvised 3/4" electrical flex hose.

* Added a tab on the front side of the dust show that hovers above the lip of the metal frame. This comes in handy when the chuck or bit, during measurements, presses down on the dust shoe, as the tab adds a third point with which to stabilize against any undue pressure.

* Didn't have time to experiment with creating a cylinder for the Rock Chuck, but did cut out a 1/2" tall piece that I plan on making attachable / detachable to create a low cylinder. On deep cutouts (ie, >1/2") the chuck of the Rock is below the upper lip.

* Am using manually removable acrylic caps to act as the bit plate, in addition to closing the air gap around the upper part of the bit during carves / cutouts. Takes a bit of getting use to during the start up sequence. When I get more time, will dabble with a built in swing arm.

* Oddly, with or without the acrylic cap, the cutout bit loses a small amount of dust. In fact, the cutting bit almost seems to produce less dust without the cap, although haven't experimented enough to really assess. The carving bit, though, definitely requires the acrylic cap.

Thanks again for posting the dust shoe project files...

Jon

[henry1]

I have to re-carve my pipe but i like how the suction is doing, for my rock chuck i plan to cut the hole in the top cover slightly bigger to allow movement unrestricted

Stephen I put my top back on before it start carving I made it that it just snaps in ,,I love the way mine turn out , the whole concept for me is good

[bergerud]

I have to re-carve my pipe but i like how the suction is doing, for my rock chuck i plan to cut the hole in the top cover slightly bigger to allow movement unrestricted

I would really be interested how you think it works without the window - 80% 90% ?. The second prototype has a 1.25 hole (Big enough for the Rock?) but has a wider base. I was thinking that maybe a countersunk window dropping into the shoe might solve the Rock problem. With a wider base there is still room for the air flow. How close to the board does the Rock come? (The CT stays 1/2 inch above the board.)

Jon, Very interesting progress. I think you need a pipe that is smooth inside. Beside the noise, it might get plugged up and the ridges must lessen the vacuum. I have thought many times about putting a support leg in front for the bit push. My cap does a little bend but it is not that bad. The bit touch is quite gentle. (Not so gentle if the bit is too long or the machine expected a different length. In that case, the second push is hard.) On my shoe design the shoe and the bit plate come together for the bit touch.

[henry1]

I would really be interested how you think it works without the window - 80% 90% ?. The second prototype has a 1.25 hole (Big enough for the Rock?) but has a wider base. I was thinking that maybe a countersunk window dropping into the shoe might solve the Rock problem. With a wider base there is still room for the air flow. How close to the board does the Rock come? (The CT stays 1/2 inch above the board.)

Jon, Very interesting progress. I think you need a pipe that is smooth inside. Beside the noise, it might get plugged up and the ridges must lessen the vacuum. I have thought many times about putting a support leg in front for the bit push. My cap does a little bend but it is not that bad. The bit touch is quite gentle. (Not so gentle if the bit is too long or the machine expected a different length. In that case, the second push is hard.) On my shoe design the shoe and the bit plate come together for the bit touch.

Henry, there have been questions as to how deep one can carve or cut with the Rock while the window is in. Can you carve 0.8 deep and cut 1.0 deep? That is, can the Rock chuck do this and stay above the window? I think it can but maybe you could test if it is true.

(If you are asking about bearings, tell them the seals have to keep out fine dust. Maybe there are other types of seals.)

I would have to say 80% for the dust with cap off and and the bit goes down 0.8 if not more Because I am carving this clock at 1" plank

[Sallen1215]

Dan, i have tried several attempts to make the pipe connection and have has various problems, what i would like if you have it is the complete tube in an stl file, i have access to a 3d printer with extruded plastic and would like to give that option a try. It would be smoother and a cleaner look to the pipe since that is the most crucial part of the build.

[JLT]

I think you need a pipe that is smooth inside. Beside the noise, it might get plugged up and the ridges must lessen the vacuum.

Concur, although after wandering through Home Depot, was only able to come up with another style of corrugated dishwasher hose that met the general material characteristics noted earlier. Smooth bore hose of the desired size at Home Depot tended to be too rigid. Won't be able to get around to experimenting again till this Friday...

In an earlier post you suggested a youtube video of the shoe in action... will also try to post one this weekend...

[bergerud]

Dan, i have tried several attempts to make the pipe connection and have has various problems, what i would like if you have it is the complete tube in an stl file, i have access to a 3d printer with extruded plastic and would like to give that option a try. It would be smoother and a cleaner look to the pipe since that is the most crucial part of the build.

Here is what I have. This was before I added some thickness to make it easier to carve!