Dust Shoe Prototype for the Carvetight

[chief2007]

Here is the link: http://www.petsolutions.com/C/Pond-P...nk-Tubing.aspx

$1.29 per foot if you get 12 or more feet, $1.09 per foot

[rockflier]

Here is the link: http://www.petsolutions.com/C/Pond-P...nk-Tubing.aspx

$1.29 per foot if you get 12 or more feet, $1.09 per foot

My thanks for all your help. Time to carve! I am using oak for all the parts except the window.

[henry1]

Here is the link I gave to Henry. It is common hose I think. I was hoping for something better, but it works.

http://www.petsandponds.com/en/ponds.../p9612868.html

That hose was 99 cents per foot does the job,, they are in Orillia ont phone # 1-877-738-7387

[JLT]

Dan,

Been dabbling for a couple days over the last week with the prototype of the shoe you provided, and after about 5 variations, I'm beginning to settle on one, although it still has a number of limitations and issues (I'm using an "A" machine with the Rock Chuck). The main difference is that I've put the hose to the right of the z-truck and run it up through the top of the machine, akin to Dick's prototype a while back. (See image 1.) Notables are:

* In order to accommodate the hose running out through the top, the shoe prevents the Z truck from going the full distance it used to with the bit plate in place, by about 1/2".

* The shoe is covered with a 1/8" piece of acrylic, which swings ~3/8" to the left, and is held close by a common pen spring. A 3/8" hole permits the bit to pass through.

* The bit plate has been removed.

* The block on the front side of the shoe is attached to the acrylic, which when the machine goes to tap the bit plate, the block hits the side of the machine, and swings the acrylic just enough such that the bit can't pass through the 3/8" hole, and thus taps the acrylic. Of course, this only works with small diameter bits. (I'm only using the carving and cutting bits.) (See image 2.)

* The hose is improvised 3/4" electrical flex tubing, wrapped in electrical tape to seal the slit. (I originally used 1/2" tubing, but it did not appear to provide enough vacuum, although I think that was due to the fact that I was running it out through the right side of the machine, and it was probably being crimpted.)


Issues...

* The shoe is a bit big on the left side, and doesn't permit the Z truck going to the left by about 1/8". Easy fix.

* The improvised electrical flex tubing, when wrapped with electrical tape, is approximately 0.95" O.D. This just barely fits through the top cover. When wandering through True Value, I was about to pick up the more expensive ($14) dishwasher flex hose, and now regret that I didn't. When I just now measured the hose on my dishwasher, it was 0.87" O.D., and additionally doesn't need to be wrapped in electrical tape. This should solve the issue of the snug fit in the top cover.

* When the bit is being tapped down on the "acrylic plate", the entire shoe is pressed down. It probably won't take many cycles before the shoe begins to sag. My thought here is to extend the acrylic sufficient to reach the metal lip of the frame, thereby assisting in holding up the shoe, although at the risk of this dragging back and forth during a carve should the shoe sag.

* When using a sled, when the CW does its frivolous checks to tap down on the X roller plate and the locking plate, the Rock Chuck ends up bouncing on the acrylic. Furthermore, it throws a retry error when not able to reach the locking plate. I can fool it by simply holding a paint stick in place of the locking plate, and it continues along its merry way. (I call these checks frivolous, because it seems that only the bit plate and the wood surface checks are really necessary for a successful carve.)

* Additionally, because of the new firmware that assumes the bit lengths of the CarveTight, I can't extend the cutting or carving bits very far on the Rock Chuck, without getting a Z truck error. Thus, I don't think I'd be able to do a 3/4" deep carve, and I was just barely able to do a 13/16" cutout, with the Rock Chuck nearly touching the acrylic.


Next attempts...

* Not sure when I'll get around to it, but am starting to conclude that the removable acrylic cap on the shoe is the way to go.

* I would have an acrylic plate for the bit tap. Ie, open up the door just before the bit check, and slip the plate in place. (I already open up the door during the initial startup sequence, after the bit is put in and the motor spins up. The firmware doesn't wait for the bit to stop spinning before it taps the X roller plate, so I simply open the door, let the bit stop spinning, and then let the CW continue so it doesn't bite into the dime I now have in place to protect the plastic plate.)

* When performing all it's other checks, no acrylic plate would be in place, allowing the chuck to pass through the main opening of the shoe.

* Then, before the actual carving starts, I would slip in the acrylic plate. I like Dick's idea about a removable open cylinder as part of the dust cap. Will probably make use of the top of a 20oz clear plastic coke bottle, as it has a conical shape that should work well...


By the way, thanks for the dust shoe project file. Made it easy to jump start the prototype...

Jon

[rockflier]

Drats. The first pipe carve had the same problem as some others. It carved through. Time to modify the mpc for me.

[bergerud]

That is very cool JLT. Looks like you are having fun. I do not know how you get that pipe out the top. You have me worried about the length of bit thing. Do you have a C machine with a Rock? Surely the bit can stick out of the Rock an inch and a half, can it not? I have a B machine with my own ER16 spindle which I made to come as close to the wood as I could and I have no trouble with long bits. There is something here I do not get.

My main goal with a dust collection system is that require as little attention as possible. My Dust Cap setup is just "there" requiring no extra steps or thought. My vacuum turns on and off automatically and dust as well as the the dust system is not part of my equation when I carve. This dust shoe prototype can be the same for CT machines. As you know, the Rock seems to be a different story.

Keep us posted on your progress. This is great!

[bergerud]

Drats. The first pipe carve had the same problem as some others. It carved through. Time to modify the mpc for me.

The mpc assumes that the board is exactly 1/2 inch thick. Is my machine different than other machines? Do you use jog to touch? A sled. Maybe you could explain how you are carving the pipe so I can understand the differences. If you do want to alter the mpc, change the height of the back side (pipe insides) since that is only a single pattern.

[rockflier]

The mpc assumes that the board is exactly 1/2 inch thick. Is my machine different than other machines? Do you use jog to touch? A sled. Maybe you could explain how you are carving the pipe so I can understand the differences. If you do want to alter the mpc, change the height of the back side (pipe insides) since that is only a single pattern.

Bergerud, the board is exactly .50. I will use jog to touch this time. I am using a 6" wide piece of oak, 48" long and carving to edge. In analyzing the mpc (the combined front and back) I see that the total depth (front plus back) is somewhat greater than .5. Perhaps that is my problem.

[bergerud]

The depths have to add up to more that 0.5 because the pipe has an inside. What is interesting is that the sum of the depths to the flat floors adds up to 0.5 even though, my machine always leaves a thin layer. I think machines are a little different. Tweak until you get it.

[rockflier]

The depths have to add up to more that 0.5 because the pipe has an inside. What is interesting is that the sum of the depths to the flat floors adds up to 0.5 even though, my machine always leaves a thin layer. I think machines are a little different. Tweak until you get it.

I surely will. Thanks loads for your help and the great design!!