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Thread: 45 cut on end

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    hurst tx
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    38

    Default 45 cut on end

    hey folks,

    I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
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    3,967

    Default 45 degree line/edge

    Quote Originally Posted by lynchburgbull View Post
    hey folks,

    I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

    thanks
    If I understand your need, you want to "bevel" the edge of your board.
    If this is what you want, you would simply assign a vector line to that edge and assign your degree bit to the depth you need. The LHR 45 degree bit may not be able to go as deep as you wish, which will mean that you need to find a 45 degree bit with a longer cutter surface, cheat by assigning something like the 1/4" or 1/2" bit and increase you depth to the thickness of your stock (using the Max-pass-depth).
    AskBud
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    hurst tx
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    Default

    do you have a video on that Bud ? or one close to that ?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lynchburgbull View Post
    do you have a video on that Bud ? or one close to that ?
    No video, but I'll send you a private message.
    It should be a simple MPC, but will depend in the thickenss of the stock.
    This is probably the reason I have avoided publishing anything.
    AskBud
    AskBud Downloads =>> CLICK HERE
    Lesson added
    7/15/2012 Titles begin with "2D-3D Build a Pattern-Part-3"

    CW Vacuum Head Project =>> CLICK HERE
    AskBud Home Page =>> CLICK HERE <<=PC lessons or CW lessons

    More than 1250 AskBud patterns
    vvv-CLICK BELOW-vvv
    http://store.carvewright.com/manufac...ufacturerid=29

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Yellville, AR 72687-0652
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lynchburgbull View Post
    hey folks,

    I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

    thanks

    I would do that like I make Honey comb boxes. You cut the side board in one peace with a 90
    Degree bit, just to the edge. Glue the joints
    And fold the sides into a box. This MPC also has the bottom board slot. Place a wet cloth and a steam Iron on each joint and slowly bend the joint. You will find a joint without a seam joint if the wood joint does not crack.

    With the CW 90 degree bit you can only make the sideboard 3/8 inch thick. I use a one inch
    90 degree bit to make thicker side boards; note - make several passes or it will over load the CW unit. You can't use a bit wider than one inch or it will hit the rail when it checks the depth.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Box Sides cw.jpg   Box Sides 3cw.jpg   Box Sides 2cw.jpg  
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by bjbethke; 11-29-2012 at 01:18 AM.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    I have never tried to use the 90 degree bit to cut miters. You would certainly need a sled. From the Designer program it looks like you can cut miters in up to 1 inch thick boards using multiple passes both vertically and horizontally. It might be a different story in practice.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  7. Default

    If you have a board .75 inches thick then all you would have to do is add a .75" wide bevel that has a depth of .75" and height of 999 to make sure it is fully extended to the height of the board. It seems to me you could do the bevel using the new 2D 3D suite. If you got the depth just right you could do the folding thing that bjbethke is talking about in a previous post but only with carving instead of cutting. That seems like a nice trick to use.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Holden,Missouri, U.S.A.
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    1,832

    Default

    What ever happened to" Bevel or miter" right from the keypad? I see it's still on there , but when selected and you go through the steps , it just ends up asking for the 1/8--1/16--or 3/16 bits. Used to be you could put a 45 degree bevel on the end of the board or edge with the 1/4" roundnose bit. You can still select the degree of bevel or miter, but it still only asks for the straight cutting bits which is what you need for a miter but not for a bevel.
    Daniel
    1.187 Custom Woodworking for more than 40-years

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