45 cut on end

[lynchburgbull]

hey folks,

I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

thanks

[AskBud]

hey folks,

I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

thanks

If I understand your need, you want to "bevel" the edge of your board.
If this is what you want, you would simply assign a vector line to that edge and assign your degree bit to the depth you need. The LHR 45 degree bit may not be able to go as deep as you wish, which will mean that you need to find a 45 degree bit with a longer cutter surface, cheat by assigning something like the 1/4" or 1/2" bit and increase you depth to the thickness of your stock (using the Max-pass-depth).
AskBud

[lynchburgbull]

do you have a video on that Bud ? or one close to that ?

[AskBud]

do you have a video on that Bud ? or one close to that ?

No video, but I'll send you a private message.
It should be a simple MPC, but will depend in the thickenss of the stock.
This is probably the reason I have avoided publishing anything.
AskBud

[bjbethke]

hey folks,

I do a lot of boxes. I need to ba able to 45 the ends only of the sides. other than cutting the board to the width I need and edge routing..................does anyone have a trick to accomplish this ?

thanks

I would do that like I make Honey comb boxes. You cut the side board in one peace with a 90
Degree bit, just to the edge. Glue the joints
And fold the sides into a box. This MPC also has the bottom board slot. Place a wet cloth and a steam Iron on each joint and slowly bend the joint. You will find a joint without a seam joint if the wood joint does not crack.

With the CW 90 degree bit you can only make the sideboard 3/8 inch thick. I use a one inch
90 degree bit to make thicker side boards; note - make several passes or it will over load the CW unit. You can't use a bit wider than one inch or it will hit the rail when it checks the depth.

[bergerud]

I have never tried to use the 90 degree bit to cut miters. You would certainly need a sled. From the Designer program it looks like you can cut miters in up to 1 inch thick boards using multiple passes both vertically and horizontally. It might be a different story in practice.

[Alan Malmstrom]

If you have a board .75 inches thick then all you would have to do is add a .75" wide bevel that has a depth of .75" and height of 999 to make sure it is fully extended to the height of the board. It seems to me you could do the bevel using the new 2D 3D suite. If you got the depth just right you could do the folding thing that bjbethke is talking about in a previous post but only with carving instead of cutting. That seems like a nice trick to use.

[Dan-Woodman]

What ever happened to" Bevel or miter" right from the keypad? I see it's still on there , but when selected and you go through the steps , it just ends up asking for the 1/8--1/16--or 3/16 bits. Used to be you could put a 45 degree bevel on the end of the board or edge with the 1/4" roundnose bit. You can still select the degree of bevel or miter, but it still only asks for the straight cutting bits which is what you need for a miter but not for a bevel.
Daniel