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Thread: cARVEWRIGHT tECHNOLOGY

  1. #1
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    Default cARVEWRIGHT tECHNOLOGY

    Perhaps it is because it is one of the first models -- A. But themachine can drive you crazy. Do a two hour carve, perfect. Run the same pattern again and whn I get to the point of changing to a router bit, the machine moves to check the depth and I get an X axis stall. Abort. That's the part that drives me up a wall. I change the pattern to remove all te patterns that have been carved, and without ever having removed the board, start again and of course the pattern is off center -- no longer conguent. Are their any workarounds when you runinto situations olike this where you don't want to lose what you have carved thus far but have to recover from a machine error?

  2. #2
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    how did you tell it to position the board first time. I usually have it center on board just in case. I would suggest restart with same mpc don't delete parts
    Leo Davenport
    Enjoy Life Carve Something everyday

  3. #3
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    Yes I have always used the center board option. Yes I could have run the entire pattern again but it sweems a waste to "air carve." Plus I'm not sure that would have solved the problem since the board measurement can vary slighlty I think.

  4. #4
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    So we are talking X Stall as in the sand paper belts correct. Not the Y as is left and right.... Left and Right would be more common as the Y Bearings in the gear box fail and during bit change will give you a Y Stall....

    If a X Stall.... Board Weight too heavy, Sand Paper Belt Rolled under, Broken tooth in X Gearbox, Right Side Guide too close, Tapered Board?


    As for using Center on Board, watch the machine and it will measure the board twice... Lots of wasted Servo time and wear on the machine... Try designing the projects with a 4 inch dead area on the right side of designer, select to not stay under rollers and select Place on END or corner as the placement method. Leave the board long and watch... the machine will only measure the board once... Less chance of that X being off you talked about.


    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  5. #5

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    I think the main point of the question is how to recover from machine error if it DOES happen- I'd really like to know myself for my RevA.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastcutty View Post
    I think the main point of the question is how to recover from machine error if it DOES happen- I'd really like to know myself for my RevA.
    It all depends where you are in your project and what carving elements you have designed into it. If the stall was early on (say 10%) in the carve just start it over. If into it longer and only raster carve detail was done and no vector detail to be added to the area apply a "0" carve region over the area carved then restart the carve from the beginning.
    RingNeckBlues
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  7. #7
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    So al, if i put something in the center of the board but do not use the center on board option, it will only measure the board once?

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  8. #8
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    When I design all my projects I apply a blank area on the right side of Designer 4 inches long. This is a non carved area that lets me stay under the rollers all the time on the head end of the board even though I always select to NOT stay under the rollers. I use 4 inches rather than 3.5 inches so the board is not teetering on the edge of the roller tip.

    When I load the project I will then select Place on End and if the board is wider it will show up as a place on corner. The machine will then measure from the right side of designer to the end of the project and stop. The only problem is is you load a board real close to the Designer Board Length and sometimes it will measure the whole board again... for twice just to be sure it is long enough... But normally I use a board that is longer than the designer board and cut it off after is has carved.

    As for that 4 inch dead area that stays under the rollers that is not carved.... It is or could be wasted wood... In my case when I do a 1 x 6 Wood Sign I have one end 4 inches long after the lettering and 2 inches on the other as I cut the sign off of the longer board. The 4 inch end gets 2 inches of it inserted into a 4 x 4 post so no wasted wood.

    If I am doing a Clock I use masking tape and apply a 4 inch scrap wood blank to the end of the board. This is FrugAL use of wood.


    I also place the artwork very close to the left side of designer as in I make the designer board close to the length of the artwork plus the 4 inches on the right side. I then use a board longer than the designer board. If you watch it measure, it will measure from the right side of designer all the way down to the end of the Designer Board and STOP.... NO Measuring twice.... SO to center the project on the board.... You need to do the math from the right side of Designer and it will always be correct.

    With the last picture of the Accountability Tag board Handles, I save the Clear Pine blocks for a future carving into Bears and Deer using a Vacuum Jig to hold the small block of wood on a carrier sled.

    In the lifetime of your machine think of all the servo time that will be saved by using place on end rather than center on board.

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00924_WEB.jpg   MPC 1.jpg   BC2.jpg   b2.jpg  

    DSC00793_WEB.jpg   DSC09788_WEB.jpg   DSC09787_WEB.jpg   DSC01984_WEB.jpg  

    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 12-03-2012 at 12:28 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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