1/16" cutting bit depth?

[200k]

I am cutting out some model boat parts in .25 (4mm) Finnish birch ply. I have been using the 1/8" cutting bit in one pass with good success however I want to sharpen the inside radius of some of the parts and plan to use the 1/16" cutting bit. Can I do this in 4mm ply in one pass without breaking the bit, or do I limit it to .125 (1/8") pass depth? I have to cut out quite a number of these pieces so cutting time is a factor.

thanks,

200k

[200k]

FWIW, I tried cutting the first figure by limiting the depth pass to 1/8" and making two passes and then cutting the next figure with the settings left at the full thickness of 1/4 inch. Ya know what happened? The exact same thing both times. It ran two passes to cut out the figures. Apparently there is an automatic max cut depth for the 1/16" cutting bit of 1/8" built into the software so no matter what thickness you set it for it cuts 1/8" at a pass.

200k

[cestout]

Good to know. I have the bit but haven't had the need to use it yet - in what, 3 years.
Clint

[ladjr]

It didn't say anything when you picked the deep under bit

[liquidguitars]

FWIW, I tried cutting the first figure by limiting the depth pass to .1/8" and making two passes and then cutting the next figure with the settings left at the full thickness of 1/4 inch. Ya know what happened? The exact same thing both times. It ran two passes to cut out the figures. Apparently there is an automatic max cut depth for the 1/16" cutting bit of 1/8" built into the software so no matter what thickness you set it for it cuts 1/8" at a pass.

200k

I reported this as a issue to LHR, in my case i use the 1/16 carving bit to cut out parts a lot as the taper is handy, the bit will make two passes and since my old machines are not that exact the second pass will at times destroy the inlay. I aslo notice that a bug runs the bit in two passes when using " conform vectors"

here is a violin top that will be trashed do to the bug you can see the inlay pass ran twice but was only 0.125"

[Digitalwoodshop]

I think I am on to something between machines.... LG if you can install the same bit in both machines I suggest using options and sensor data and Z data to measure the distance between the top mechanical Z stop and the bit flag. Between my machines I believe there is a slight difference between the Bit Flags.... This should be nulled out when the machine touches the top of the wood and even the right side sliding guide. I would touch and measure all 3 on both machines and see if you see a difference... Plus a Head Level check before you start would be good too.... Wide board and touch the Z to both sides.... Remember if you hold the Z up against the mechanical stop pin when you activate the Z Data it will be 0000. This just makes the math easier... Wherever the head is at the time of activation of Z data will be 0000.

I would adjust the BIT FLAG up or down to make both machines match..... I think THAT is the Variable.... Sort of a Poor Mans Calibration.... Looking into the Z Scale Factor would be another.... The Conversion of the Pulses into movement.... As in doing Calibration....

I use a 1/16 end mill bit to cut my plastic FRP Fire Tags in a one pass cut. I use double sided tape to hold the tags as they are cut but a Vacuum Jig would be the best thing.... One with a replaceable Hardboard Top with holes for each tag. I bought a Vernier Air Vacuum Pump and a Vacuum Switch that will be wired into the Clear Cover Switch with a RCA Plug. A loss of Vacuum will cause the machine to stop like opening the cover. A Shorting RCA Plug will short the RCA Jack when the Vacuum Jig is not used.... May rig a Relay to open contacts in the same jack for a remote stop since I listen to my machine in the Laser Shop over a intercom.... A simple battery and relay and wires to the wood shop... Getting off track....

Back to the 1/16th bit.... I use the tape as I don't use TABS.... The Tabs can fracture and I need smooth edges for the tags. SINCE I am using the TAPE..... I design the project and spacing for the 1/16th bit but then select every VECTOR CUT without Tabs and change the Bit in Designer to the 1/4 inch bull nose bit. THIS tricks the machine into cutting the path at 1st gear only.... Do the same cut and have the 1/16th selected and the machine will do corners in 1st gear and then shift to 2nd gear of a FASTER feed Rate.... I LIE to the machine and tell Designer I have a 1/4 inch bit BUT load the 1/16th PLUNGE End Mill Bit..... Works SLICK....

If I were doing the parts out of the 1/4 inch wood, I would make a VACUUM SLED.... With a different Hardboard TOP for each set of parts.... You lay out the parts and save the File then rename the same file with a "H" on the end... "H" for Hole Pattern... Select the DRILL HOLE function and place Drill Holes in places to hold the parts in place. Then DELETE the Vector Cuts leaving just the Vacuum Hole Pattern. Place the Sled in the machine and with a new Hardboard TOP drill out the Holes for the Vacuum....

Place the plywood on the new Hardboard Sled with the holes and apply vacuum... Now just cut the Vector Cuts..... Either WITH TABS.. OR with the Vacuum Jig Without TABS..... Less Sanding.... And use a 1/16th bit in first gear.....

My jig design is going to use the 3/8 Mushroom Shaped Wooded HOLE PLUGS.... I will drill a 3/8 hole in a 1 inch grid pattern over my whole Vacuum Jig. The Mushroom Heads will let the Hardboard rest on the raised area that will contain the vacuum. Proper Side Rails will need to be made to contain the Vacuum and be LEVEL when the Hardboard is installed. Like I do the 12 x 24 sheets of Plastic, a 4 inch header and tail piece of 1/4 inch plywood will keep the center or cutting piece happy staying under BOTH Rollers.... I also use PLACE on END or CORNER, that way the machine measures once and from the head end.... I will use a Rubber Vacuum Hose in the Tail END of the board hooked to the Vacuum Switch.

IF I let the machine CUT the Vector for the Tags WITH the 1/16th selected in DESIGNER when the machine shifts into 2nd gear the FEED RATE is SO FAST that the bit cannot cut the plastic fast enough to clear the area and will actually push the taped tags.... I have not snapped a bit yet... But I bet it would.... My 1/16th bit is a 1/4 inch shank and 6 inches long and is a bit designed for a ROTARY ENGRAVER like my Star912. I cut the bit in half with my Chain Saw Chain Sharpening Machine. The last picture shows CUT FAIL.... Using a 1/16th and TWO SPEED Cutting as in the machine shifting into 2nd gear and pushing the tags, unable to properly cut FAST ENOUGH.... A switch to a 1/4 inch Bull Nose Bit keeps the machine in 1st gear and makes for a SMOOTH CUT with NO PUSHING... TOO Bad we can't get a Feed Rate Selector in the Bit WINDOW..... as in "Lock in 1st gear".... And the QC was BAD, BB marks..... Even the Rock cuts were rough... but not as bad...

OK... Thats the plan.... Just need to do it....

Edit:

Just remembered.... I had a WHOLE Sheet of tags that DID NOT cut all the way through.... Left a skin.... And the tags fractured when removing them making them scrap.... WHAT caused it.... My Sand Paper BELT had ROLLED UP and the DOUBLE THICK BELT at the brass roller side and when the BIT touched the Brass Roller side of the BOARD.... IT was the thickness of the Sand Paper Belt THICKER or HIGHER.... So the first row of tags on the Brass Roller side mostly all cut out.... But not completely.... The second row and toward the bit plate progressively were NOT cut by the TAPER of the BOARD.... AS in Higher at the Brass Roller and normal at the bit flag.... BUT out of reach of the bit.... I have since ripped off a 3/4 inch strip of sand paper belt at the brass roller and WATCH it creep toward the Brass Roller over time but mostly when I cut 6 inch wide stock... AND changed the Cut DEPTH on my .mpc DEEPER.... To never let that happen again.... So keep an eye on roller under belts.... They are hard to see...

AL

[liquidguitars]

My Bad I was running a build that was a month old, I updated everything and installed new and it's working... I was waiting for the fix but they fixed it in OCT. I am still not sure what the Max depth setting is for all the bits tho. Good advice on the bit flag calabraiton thank you....

[liquidguitars]

ok i ran my project that was only two months old with the new updates and i still getting two passes at 0.125" so I'm at a loss.

you can see the abalone inlay path on this violin top and its set to 0.125 deep but takes two passes. max path is not set.

[200k]

Liquidguitars,

LOVE your work! I wish I could do that stuff.

200k

[liquidguitars]

Thanks 200k... looks like my issue is more of a xfile after looking at Al's post i decided to select the 1/8" bit to fool the software and it made one pass as directed saved 7 min of the project and was able to finish the violin top sets.