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Thread: Worn Rails

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Southgate, Mi
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    Default Worn Rails

    So I tore "Bucky" apart tonight for some TLC. The Z truck was getting noisy, clunky movement. I suspected a broken gear, or a frozen bearing. Instead i found some lumpy Rails. These things are hardened, aren't they? They sure were a nightmare to get smooth again! I had to resort to 220 grit. And stroked them for an hour or so! The look on my wife's face was priceless, when she asked me what I was doing. (Hands in my lap, staring at the computer screen, watching a movie...) Anyway... I had time to ponder how something so hard could get worn so fast.

    Awhile back my QuickChange gave up my only Carving bit. I found part of it embedded in a carving. I was able to get the Old Z-truck off and put the new CarveTight Z-truck on without having to deal with the loctite. But 45 minutes into the second carve (First one ruined by the bit) I noticed the sound had changed, and found the Z-truck was rattling. I took it back off, drilled out the screws, and bought some allen head grade 8s. I used the red loctite and reinstalled the truck. But in my fear of it coming loose again... I think I over-tightened the bearing adjustment. Forcing them into the rails. There were definite grooves worn from the bearing movement.

    So did I over-tighten, or is this normal wear? There is around 400 hours on the cut motor. The Y truck moved smooth and there doesn't seem to be excessive wear on them.

  2. #2

    Default

    Sounds like you over tighten the bearings. The bearings need to be preloaded to remove any slop but still allow them to move freely. Don't know how bad the rails were worn but you might have been able to rotate the rails 180 degrees to get a fresh surface. Also I would avoid the red loctite and go for the blue. Lot easier to remove down the road.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks PCW, I was tired when I wrote that. I did use blue, the semi-permanent one. Floyd set me on the right path.

    I thought about turning them 180 but the displaced metal was what the truck was clunking on. as it slowly wore away the metal, the bearings pushed the metal to the bottom of their movement. So the shaft was actually .002 thicker in those areas.
    Working silky smooth now. I think I over tightened them too. Just wanted to confirm the wear was not normal. I noticed while disassembling it, that when I loosened the bearings, they rolled right over the lumps. That's why I assumed they were too tight. The good news is the bearings were all fine.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Default

    Have you ever Cut any of the New Pressure Treated Wood with it's copper based STEEL Eating Chemicals?

    I recommend against cutting or Carving the New Pressure Treated Wood.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado, United States
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    273

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by badbert View Post
    The look on my wife's face was priceless, when she asked me what I was doing. (Hands in my lap, staring at the computer screen, watching a movie...)
    I can just imagine!

    Quote Originally Posted by Digitalwoodshop View Post
    Have you ever Cut any of the New Pressure Treated Wood with it's copper based STEEL Eating Chemicals?

    I recommend against cutting or Carving the New Pressure Treated Wood.

    AL
    What wood is this?
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    NE PA USA
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    Default

    The wood you use to build decks with that has a Preservative inside it... Called Pressure Treated wood....

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_preservation

    http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infpre.html
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 10-12-2012 at 02:11 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Onset, Ma
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Al, Are you sure about the copper reacting in adverse way with iron ? I've known of a bad reaction with alumimun, not iron or steel. There is a warning of copper and aluminum having a seriuos reaction in the boating world. Just wondering .


    Capt Barry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    Default

    I have noticed that my z rails rotate. They have marks on them which clearly indicate that they rotate during use. This rotation would even out the roller wear. Maybe the problem with badbert's rails was that they were not rotating. Maybe non rotation is a symptom of having the rollers too tight.

    Has anyone else noted that these rails rotate?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Southgate, Mi
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Digitalwoodshop View Post
    Have you ever Cut any of the New Pressure Treated Wood with it's copper based STEEL Eating Chemicals?

    I recommend against cutting or Carving the New Pressure Treated Wood.

    AL
    I try to avoid chemicals of any kind. Much less grind them up into fine dust! I have COPD. I have been afraid of treated lumber since the cyanide scare!

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    I have noticed that my z rails rotate. They have marks on them which clearly indicate that they rotate during use. This rotation would even out the roller wear. Maybe the problem with badbert's rails was that they were not rotating. Maybe non rotation is a symptom of having the rollers too tight.

    Has anyone else noted that these rails rotate?
    AHAA! that would explain the black marks underneath the rails. Maybe they are supposed to turn.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    I have noticed that my z rails rotate. They have marks on them which clearly indicate that they rotate during use. This rotation would even out the roller wear. Maybe the problem with badbert's rails was that they were not rotating. Maybe non rotation is a symptom of having the rollers too tight.

    Has anyone else noted that these rails rotate?
    I have never notice any movement on the rails before. My thinking is if the rails are loose enough that it would allow the rails to spin that there is not enough tension on the bearings and would cause some run out. Can you feel any movement in your trunk? Just my thinking

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