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Thread: More finishing questions

  1. #1

    Default More finishing questions

    So, I'm working on a 7" wide board that is long and has lettering in it (Black Chauncery font). I stained the board, waiting two days for it to dry. Then I applied the gold paint into the lettering. After waiting another day, I went to sand off the paint on the outside of the letters and it was terrible. I tried sandpaper, steel wool, even the buffing wheel on my dremel. Got most of the paint off the outside of the letters, but the letters have some muck in them that is making it so you cant see the gold underneath. Its heavy, even feels a little wet. It may be steel wool fragments, but i can't tell for sure. I can't seem to clean it out, particularly on the smaller letters.

    What's more, it took the stain off the wood around the letters. If I restain, its going to get into the letters, making it even worse.

    Thoughts? And thanks in advance for any helpful advice!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Post some pics, we have all screwed up one way or another. So collectively we have made almost every mistake! Post yours so we can help. The worst case scenario... recarve the same board and start over! One thing I do is apply a thin coat of poly, just thick enough to be smooth. This way, the paint doesn't penetrate very deep. And a topcoat will seal the paint.

  3. #3
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    I agree with Bert, I always spray one coat of laquer before I paint the details. It seems to make it easyier to remove.
    Leo Davenport
    Enjoy Life Carve Something everyday

  4. Default

    yep I third it. Stain first, seal so it is smooth, paint, wipe excess paint of the edges and spray finish.

    Easy schmeasy as Tommy Mac would say!LOL
    Last edited by TerryT; 10-03-2012 at 08:04 PM.

  5. #5
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    Well, as bert mentioned- the good news is that we have all been in your shoes and it is just a part of the learning process. The bad news is that once you've screwed up a finish, it can be difficult to un-screw it.... perhaps some wiping with mineral spirits and a toothbrush may get out the steel wool, but even then you'll probably still have paint in the pores. I would try it but then quickly move on to re-carving if I were in your shoes.

    I seal my stuff first too before painting, but I use a washcoat of 1# shellac. It will still allow any wood finish or stain to soak in but it will block the paint from entering the pores. It also dries VERY quickly compared to oil-based poly. This is just my method though-- I'd try out multiple methods until you find one that you like best. The key with finishing is to practice your technique on scrap pieces so that you sharpen your skills.

    One more small note-- I gave up using steel wool years ago because of problems similar to yours. I've found that using 3m "scrubbie" pads (I get mine from a woodworking supply company) works better-- there is no chance of fraying steel wood getting loose in my finish (or in my fingers which really bugged me) They are similar to this
    http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brit...m+scouring+pad

    Hope this helps,
    Lawrence

  6. #6

    Default Pictures of the problem

    Recarving would not be my first choice. Nothing against carving but it took 22 hours to carve the first one! And that, despite a flexshaft that wanted to melt (had to relube twice during operation).
    Pic 1-4: The paint
    Pic 5-8: The scrape

    Picture 8 really shows the problem. The gold paint looks great, when you can actually see it.

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  7. #7
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    Sorry, but that is a beautiful carve! I would not even try to strip it! If it was worth 22 hours to the first time... it's worth another 22 hours to get right. In better news... I love that patina look! I even like it where you scraped the letters. I would start on a second one, and distress that one. Wire brush it and then scotch bright it smooth, and then some deep satin poly. That steel wool will rust eventually, and create some weird rust colors. I agree with the scotch-brite pads. But if you buy cheap ones they will leave fuzz. Just my opinion of course.

  8. #8
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    It almost looks like you put the stain on to thick, in the right environment it can stay gummy for days before curing. Multiple coats is always better then 1 thick coat. Best way is as others said to coat it before painting and wipe off excess asap.
    I have had great luck with the paint and stain pens when doing lettering.
    Last edited by johnsonswamp; 10-04-2012 at 08:02 AM.

  9. #9
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    +1 to the suggestion that perhaps your carve wasn't completely cured. It looks like you have residue from steel wood (and perhaps a shop rag or paper towel?) in it. I would try wiping the whole thing down with liberal application of mineral spirits with a 3m pad (for jobs like this you can even use a kitchen scourer.. the sponge soaks up the mineral spirits and the 3m pad helps loosen everything. If you have a wet/dry vac, this may help you collect some of the "shmooze" as you go. Keep a fairly clean green scrubbie and get it as clean as you can. As I suggested before, a toothbrush will help you get into those tough to reach places. After you get it as clean as you can, let it dry and then give it another go with a clean scrubbie and some mineral spirits. The point is to get as much off as you can and then start over. If needed you can use the sponge sandpaper to get things a little cleaner too. 120 grit shouldn't hurt the detail of the carve too much if you are careful.

    Once you get there, That carve would really benefit IMHO from a seal coat before painting.

    One more tiny note- if you are using the glitter paint on your table (martha stewart brand) for your lettering, it is notoriously hard to get it it to show cleanly against a dark background. I highly recommend using that latex based paint for wide areas and using an enamel (paint pen or model paints) to actually highlight the letters. I can just never get that latex based glitter paint to show up properly at all angles and in all lights. It seems like it'll be fine under floures. lighting but then disappear under incandescent or vice versa

    One more tiny hint- a small fan turned towards your flexshaft will work wonders at keeping it cool through long carves. I've not had to lube mine more than about every 75 hours or so but I almost always have a fan on it (on low)

    No matter what though, that looks like a very nice carve and I look forward to seeing more pics when it is done.
    Last edited by lawrence; 10-04-2012 at 08:50 AM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks for all the helpful advice! I've gone and bought a brass brush, which did nothing. I don't want to use mineral spirits (isn't that paint thinner?) because I don't want to completely start over. Right now, I've been using dental picks and tip of a nail to dig the stuff out. I may simply paint over the gunk and restain.

    For the one that mentioned that it looked like I overstained...absolutely true. I did it the first time on the headboard and had to match. And the headboard came out beautiful with high gloss poly in 10-11 coats (with some gold leaf mixed in for good measure).

    PS...I'll post a link to pictures of the overall build (been at it since May) later when I'm not at work and locked out of FB)
    Last edited by Geophyrd; 10-05-2012 at 12:07 PM.

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