More finishing questions

[Geophyrd]

So, I'm working on a 7" wide board that is long and has lettering in it (Black Chauncery font). I stained the board, waiting two days for it to dry. Then I applied the gold paint into the lettering. After waiting another day, I went to sand off the paint on the outside of the letters and it was terrible. I tried sandpaper, steel wool, even the buffing wheel on my dremel. Got most of the paint off the outside of the letters, but the letters have some muck in them that is making it so you cant see the gold underneath. Its heavy, even feels a little wet. It may be steel wool fragments, but i can't tell for sure. I can't seem to clean it out, particularly on the smaller letters.

What's more, it took the stain off the wood around the letters. If I restain, its going to get into the letters, making it even worse.

Thoughts? And thanks in advance for any helpful advice!

[badbert]

Post some pics, we have all screwed up one way or another. So collectively we have made almost every mistake! Post yours so we can help. The worst case scenario... recarve the same board and start over! One thing I do is apply a thin coat of poly, just thick enough to be smooth. This way, the paint doesn't penetrate very deep. And a topcoat will seal the paint.

[ladjr]

I agree with Bert, I always spray one coat of laquer before I paint the details. It seems to make it easyier to remove.

[TerryT]

yep I third it. Stain first, seal so it is smooth, paint, wipe excess paint of the edges and spray finish.

Easy schmeasy as Tommy Mac would say!LOL

[lawrence]

Well, as bert mentioned- the good news is that we have all been in your shoes and it is just a part of the learning process. The bad news is that once you've screwed up a finish, it can be difficult to un-screw it.... perhaps some wiping with mineral spirits and a toothbrush may get out the steel wool, but even then you'll probably still have paint in the pores. I would try it but then quickly move on to re-carving if I were in your shoes.

I seal my stuff first too before painting, but I use a washcoat of 1# shellac. It will still allow any wood finish or stain to soak in but it will block the paint from entering the pores. It also dries VERY quickly compared to oil-based poly. This is just my method though-- I'd try out multiple methods until you find one that you like best. The key with finishing is to practice your technique on scrap pieces so that you sharpen your skills.

One more small note-- I gave up using steel wool years ago because of problems similar to yours. I've found that using 3m "scrubbie" pads (I get mine from a woodworking supply company) works better-- there is no chance of fraying steel wood getting loose in my finish (or in my fingers which really bugged me) They are similar to this
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brit...m+scouring+pad

Hope this helps,
Lawrence

[Geophyrd]

Recarving would not be my first choice. Nothing against carving but it took 22 hours to carve the first one! And that, despite a flexshaft that wanted to melt (had to relube twice during operation).
Pic 1-4: The paint
Pic 5-8: The scrape

Picture 8 really shows the problem. The gold paint looks great, when you can actually see it.

[b.sumner47]

To add another trick that I use for small or tight spots, I use a razor blade " One Sided Only ".


Capt Barry