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Thread: my improved sled

  1. #31
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    Feb 2006
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    Holden,Missouri, U.S.A.
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    You would always have a threaded rod sticking out of all sides , plus you would still have to center it in your sled. With the handscrews added to your sled, you could take a scrap 1x4 , drill a hole in the bottom for the handscrew dowel, and if you cut out a V-notch in each side of the 1x4's you could clamp square or even round pieces of wood in your sled. The right and left handed thread on each handscrew makes it really easy to center your wood block. You would only need one threaded rod down the middle of your sled, then attach a 1x4 to each dowel coming off the threaded rod.
    1.187 Custom Woodworking for more than 40-years

  2. #32
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    Jan 2009
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    Denver, Colorado, United States
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    I'm just commenting here to bookmark this thread for ideas. I'm about to start making an adjstable sled for myself, and the more ideas I get, the better!
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  3. #33
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    Aug 2009
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    Whidbey Island, WA
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    Thanks! If you have any questions please feel free to post them or PM me (I still lurk here and read the forum quite often as I am still learning a lot from you guys)

    Glad you found the idea interesting enough to bookmark the thread,

    Lawrence

  4. #34
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    Jan 2009
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    My only two concerns would be that (1) I always (at least so far) select center on board when I carve. I have never yet set on corner, so I wouldn't know which corner it references, and I don't really want to try to jog to position. So how easy is it to reliably get the board in the center of the sled? And (2), I don't know if this is just *MY* machine, or if it is just *ME*, but it seems like to me whenever I have too heavy and/or long of a board in the machine, I fairly consistently get errors - tracking roller, board sensor, etc. SO I want to make sure that the sled is not too hefty.

    As of now, I have no jointer or planer, so I only buy S4S (rarely S2S) wood; and while there is some variation, it is pretty consistently .51", .632", and .747" - I know that it should be other thicknesses than that, but that is what I have had for the majority of the boards I've gotten. I prefer 12" width (11.23"), but also get 10" (9.33"), 8" (7.48"), and sometimes 4" (3.5"). And I have a bunch of scarps of 2x4s laying around, and have thought of trying some double sided carves on them, especially now that I have a long 1/16" carving bit. Most of the projects I carve are 12" long or less, but I have had a few upwards of 36" long, and one at 54" long (not counting the extra 7"). So I have put a great variety of board sizes through my machine, and assume I will continue to do so. I haven't yet found a niche product to carve.

    I have done a few lithos, I have some 8x10 1/4" corian, and for that I simply carved a 1/4" deep rectangle into a 15" long 1x12... I wouldn't call it a sled as much as a carrier board. So far that is the closest I have come to using a sled though.

    But I am now starting to use less scrap wood and cheap off the shelf big box store wood, and I have been buying some nicer boards from a local lumber supply company. So with the added expense for the wood, I think I really need to get a sled of some sort built.

    Sorry for the rambling, just getting some thoughts out. And who knows, maybe it will help you to give me some good advice, lol!
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Spring Arbor Michigan
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    Glad you are still lurking around. I for one have missed your knowledge.

    Quote Originally Posted by lawrence View Post
    Thanks! If you have any questions please feel free to post them or PM me (I still lurk here and read the forum quite often as I am still learning a lot from you guys)

    Glad you found the idea interesting enough to bookmark the thread,

    Lawrence

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Redmond, Or
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    Quote Originally Posted by CNC Carver View Post
    Glad you are still lurking around. I for one have missed your knowledge.
    You can add me to that list.

    Mike
    All Gave Some,
    Some Gave All.

    My computer configuration and software used:
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    Designer 2.007, Designer 3.102, Pattern Editor, Centerline, Conforming Vectors, 2d Tools, 3d Tools, DXF Importer, STL Importer and Rotary Jig.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
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    236

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    Quote Originally Posted by lawrence View Post
    I used this sled in my "ornament" video last year
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8s81Q...7&feature=plcp
    this was before I put on the end plates, and some tape was required... I know better now

    Thanks again all, and please (of course) feel free to copy and improve on (as long as you share your experiences!), this idea.

    Lawrence
    I am just a tad confused on what is written above about using tape before you added the end plates. Do you have to now that you have end plates? I saw the ornament video with the tape but now wonder if you have to? Thanks for sharing your Sled. I also looked at your Wood working portfolio. Beautiful Work.

  8. #38
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    Aug 2009
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    nope, the tape is no longer required as long as you use board "ends" which both act as a visual cue to the sensor and also prevent racking of the sled. At the time I made the video, I didn't have the complete concept wrapped around my noggin.

    Sorry for the confusion, but in the end, the sled as shown at the beginning of this post was pretty effective and did not require tape to be used other than the double stick tape I would use to mount the workpiece. (and of course masking tape on the bottom of the sled for the roller!)

    Lawrence

  9. #39
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    Sep 2010
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    Hereford, AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by lawrence View Post
    nope, the tape is no longer required as long as you use board "ends" which both act as a visual cue to the sensor and also prevent racking of the sled. At the time I made the video, I didn't have the complete concept wrapped around my noggin.

    Sorry for the confusion, but in the end, the sled as shown at the beginning of this post was pretty effective and did not require tape to be used other than the double stick tape I would use to mount the workpiece. (and of course masking tape on the bottom of the sled for the roller!)

    Lawrence
    I just got through making a nice sled like yours but as soon as I went to use it the CW read the width and got caught reading the railings at 1 1/4 inches. I had to use tape from the railing to the center piece to get it to read the entire width. Where did I go wrong? Is the railings suppose to be no wider then a certain measurement? That is the only thing I can think of. I am right now trying to wrap my head around how the CW measures so I don't have to use tape other then the double sided tape. Any help would be appreciated on why the CW is seeing my width of the railing.

    It sounds like you might have made a different sled then the one you are talking about above as the way you worded "the sled as shown at the beginning of this post was pretty effective." Did you? Would love to hear about it.
    Thank You.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    8,176

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    You could put some black tape or black paint on your railing to make it appear narrower to the optic sensor.

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