I haven't made one yet, so I could be wrong... But from what I've seen, the rails should be no more than 1", and 3/4" is usually better.
I haven't made one yet, so I could be wrong... But from what I've seen, the rails should be no more than 1", and 3/4" is usually better.
- KenLater model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline
Here is how I do it. I made mine 14.5 wide do that way I can max it out with the widest boards possible. I used a t track cutter to make some slots and bought some special rectangular nuts. Works great. Any size wood. I am about to make some longer ones.
Custom Stadium Coin Racks for displaying Military Challenge Coins, GeoCoins and the like- http://www.etsy.com/shop/stadiumdisplays
OR http://shop.ebay.com/stadiumdisplays...&_trksid=p4340
Does the CNC have any problem with the sled wider than your board
Leo Davenport
Enjoy Life Carve Something everyday
for me, I got around the initial measurement by having the board measure width with the sled just inside the machine (the 4 inch rails give enough space to do so)
I'm not using them anymore as I no longer use my carvewright, so I have no clue if things have changed to make this still feasible.
Hope this helps,
Lawrence
I have a question - if I use 3/4" thick MDF for my sled rails, which is pretty near exactly 0.75" thick, and then put one-by lumber in it, which varies from 0.64 to -.725" thick in my experience, is there an issue with measuring the project boards? As long as I use jog to position to measure the depth, will it work alright?
Also, will a melamine base (white side down) alleviate the need for masking tape on the bottom of the sled?
- KenLater model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline
Melamine may be slicker and make the tape more necessary.
CarveWright CX Packaged System - starting at $2000
CarversClub 1 Year Subscription - $150.00/year
Adv. Support w/out CC membership - $25.00/issue
CarveWright Community Forum - PRICELESS!
I suppose that makes sense.
I am too used to using tape on the tops of boards to fool the photosensor, I was assuming that is why we also use it on the bottom. But of course I know there isn't a photosensor down there, lol... just one of those stupid things that made sense at the time, but not sure why or how in hindsight.
Although, while it is generally slicker, I do have the rubber belts, and it might actually provide good grip on those. But I don't know how it would interact with the tracking roller itself.
- KenLater model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline
I would stay away from having the white (slick) side down. If you do tape will be a must have for the brass roller edge.
When you state "jog to position to measure depth" are you talking about the board thickness measuring step? If so it should be no problem. You might get a message asking about "project or board" if you are doing any cut paths.
Depending on how you have the sled made up, how you place the board in the sled and how you tell the machine how you want the carving placed it will more than likely try to measure the board plus the sled for both the length and width.
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
Buy CarveWright
Colorado FaceBook Users Group
All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.