A model machine

[stanv77]

I just bought an A model machine from my nephews in-laws. I got it home was doing some testing and found that cut motor will not run and also the truck will go up or down. Does anyone have idea on what to the problems is. I would like to get it running if I can. I think there is some upgrades that I will have to do but I want to make sure it is worth it first. I will use it for a parts machine if I cann't get it running. I only paid 250.00 for it.

[CNC Carver]

How many cut hours on A machine? How long has it sat unused? Might want to lube bearings and put new motor brushes on.

[stanv77]

It has only 25 hrs on the machine. I t has not been run for about 2 or 3 years

[CNC Carver]

I would soak bearings in wd40 and remove bushings and clean armature to get cut motor running.

[chief2007]

Start with upgrading to the 14 FFC cable and circuit boards.

Once that is done you troubleshoot more if needed

[stanv77]

thanks for the help guys. I will post anything I find

[Digitalwoodshop]

I would soak bearings in wd40 and remove bushings and clean armature to get cut motor running.

NO !!!!! NO OIL inside the Cut Motor... FIRE HAZARD..... With 25 Hours bearings are FINE....


So we got that out of the way.... Sorry that is very poor advice and very dangerious.... With only 25 cut hours the bearings must be fine and the cut brushes are of proper length.. They could be hung up but of proper length.... As for applying any oil on the Cut Motor Bearings..... 1. They are Sealed.... 2. Any excess oil will get into the wires of the armature. Since the Cut Motor has 2 sides to the fan, the back side sucks air through the slits in the back of the motor at the brushes and thought the motor and out the muffler... With the Oil the sawdust will collect inside the cut motor and and cause a heat buildup to the point of FIRE.... NOT GOOD.....


Now if the Cut Motor does not spin up or run lets look at the most common reasons....


The Power for the Cut Motor comes from the X Termination Board under the machine and at this time I would recommend un plugging the machine and laying it on it's back or Muffler Side... Remove all the screws to the bottom cover.... Look at my pictures and see the bottom view... Power Supply, X Termination Board, and X or Sand Paper Belt Drive Motor.


The X Termination Board has 115 Volts AC on it from the Power Supply. The Q1 Transistor in conjunction with the C1 Capacitor are the electronic ON and OFF Switch for the Cut Motor. I have a picture sent by someone of a BURNT BOARD.... Not Likely with your machine but an inspection is in order.... The C1 Capacitor has been known to SNAP OFF one side after long hours of use with a bad QC used LONG after it was needed to be replaced.... In the early years I broke 3 of my C1 Caps on 4 of my machines... And it was caused by vibration of a bad QC that SHOULD have been replaced earlier.... Just one more project... I would think....


SO... Inspect the wires on the X Termination Board to make sure they are properly installed and GENTLE check the C1 for a broken end... With only 25 hours... It is more than likely fine.....


Next... the Wires from the X Termination Board, a Black Power and a White Return wire go to the Cut Motor. The Cut Motor has a Black and a White Wire. The Black from the X Termination Board go to the Black of the Cut Motor. That leaves you with 2 White wires... Normally they would plug together.... BUT... The Machine has a Clear Cover RIGHT side Cut Motor Safety Switch. When the Clear Cover is OPEN the switch on the RETURN White Wire prevents the Cut Motor from Starting and cutting your fingers as you change a bit....


The Right side Clear Cover Cut Motor Switch has a black and white wire only because it was cheaper than having a cable made with 2 White Wires for less confusion.... But the Black and white work just fine.... It is just in one wire and out the other... So White Wire from the X Termination Board to lets say the Black Wire from the Switch and the White Wire from the Switch to the White Wire of the Cut Motor... It's That SIMPLE... Once you understand what is going on.....


SO Check the Wires.... One may have come unplugged..... or plugged in the wrong place.... And remember to tuck the wires back into the back corner OR the Z Truck Cooling Fins will hit the wires preventing the Y to move all the way to the Bit Plate.


Now for the Right Side Switch.... IT could be damaged or LOOSE OR the Clear Cover Tang has broken off.... I have had that in 2007... The Switch should click when you push it in.... When you remove the whole top cover the clear cover does not have a mechanical stop and rests on the 2 cover Switches.... This CAN Damage them.... The LEFT Clear cover Switch talks to the computer and tells it when the cover is open... It also gives the open cover on the LCD.


SO... IF the X Termination Board, WIRES, and Right Side Cover Switch are GOOD.... Then the last thing to do is open the Cut Motor and inspect it... I recommend removing it from the machine to do this.... Remember there is a screw inside the Muffler hole to remove to open the cover... A Wire could have been Sawed off by a spinning part.... OR BURNT.... I have seen this in the past.....


Be Gentle... Wires can snap off the Cut Motor parts....


Now for the Z problem.... It Could have the old 18 pin FSC Cable.... The Thinner wires have been known to snap easier... I recommend replacement with the new 14 pin kit... It's like the difference between a AA Battery and D Cell Battery... The 14 pin FSC Cable lets more Current or PUSH flow to the Z Motor.... The 18 pin thinner wires are like a AA Battery... and 14 like a D...

Look at my pictures and if your machine has the OLD 18 pin FSC Cable then I recommend replacing it with a KIT.... It has the 14 pin FSC Cable and 2 Proper Circuit Board for the 14 PIN. NEVER PLUG a NEW 14 PIN cable into a old 18 pin Socket... The Wider Pins of the 14 pin cable will SHORT OUT your COMPUTER..... A $300.00 PLUS repair....

Look at the Pictures... The WINGS of the big board for the 14 pin cable are easy to see....


Now if this is what CNC Carver was talking about.... ROLLER RAIL BEARINGS..... the 4 bearings on the Z Truck and 4 on the Y Truck... They CAN FREEZE UP.... Sawdust gets inside them.... THAT could be causing the Z Problem too.... Even if they work now.... I would mark them with a black marker so you can move them and see rotation... They can SLIDE along the rails frozen.... And YES, WD-40 is a EXCELLENT cleaner for the ROLLER RAIL BEARINGS.... The Trick is to use rags to catch any overspray... You don't want excess WD-40 dripping on the Sand Paper Belts and all over the machine... WD-40 is a Silicone Base Water Displacement and not really a oil.... WD-40 can give you serious problems if it gets on the WOOD and you try to finish it.... Causes the Finish to Bead off and not stick causing Bird's Eyes.... So WD-40 is GOOD to clean the ROLLER Bearing.... BAD inside the Cut Motor...


And always be careful and dispose of the OIL RAGS properly.... It can Spontaneous Combust... into flames.... I was doing finishing with Stain and Poly and took a break and came back and picked up the Stain Soaked Rag and burnt my hand... It was ready to burst into flames.... So it CAN happen.... And since I am standing on my Soap box.... A Battery Smoke Detector above EVERY MACHINE... IT SAVED me Once.....

You can always CALL ME or email me... Sent PM... Plus my number in on my Website below.


Good Luck,


AL

[CNC Carver]

Al is correct no oil in cut motor. I was talking about the truck bearings not going up or down. And just pull brushes and clean inside cut motor. Al has much more experience than I. PLEASE follow his instructions.

[Digitalwoodshop]

And more pictures..... CNC, I thought that is what you wanted to say... Wanted to remove the confusion.

Speaking of Confusion.... I had the pictures of the old FSC Cable marked as 16 pin.... They are 18.... Was corrected.... finally... One picture still shows the 16 pin on the close up of the motor circuit board. I was NEW once TOO.... I was taught by the BETA Testers....

And remember if you change to the new 14 pin kit that the machine will start up in Carve Area WAITING for you to go into the Setup and change the Probe Data Source from the TRUCK to the COVER.... Until you do... Scan Area....

AL