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Thread: Slipped Y check Y belt error

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Default Slipped Y check Y belt error

    First carve after getting the machine back from LHR for the CT and maintenance upgrades and first time using since the conference. Loaded a piece of MDF 10x16X 3/4 and tried to cut a 6X9 carve region to create a sled for some 1/4 Corian. Machine fired up and ran but my size didnt' turn out right (operator error) so I tried another and this time after measuring the board and the bit touching the bit plate, I got the "Slipped" check Y belt followed by a Y/Z Homing fault. I am running the latest version of Designer along with a fresh firmware update. Any ideas guys?
    By the way Floyd if you read this your Dust Insert is great!!

    Mark

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdchief View Post
    First carve after getting the machine back from LHR for the CT and maintenance upgrades and first time using since the conference. Loaded a piece of MDF 10x16X 3/4 and tried to cut a 6X9 carve region to create a sled for some 1/4 Corian. Machine fired up and ran but my size didnt' turn out right (operator error) so I tried another and this time after measuring the board and the bit touching the bit plate, I got the "Slipped" check Y belt followed by a Y/Z Homing fault. I am running the latest version of Designer along with a fresh firmware update. Any ideas guys?
    By the way Floyd if you read this your Dust Insert is great!!

    Mark
    Mark,

    Yes I am reading this and THANKS! Especially if your carving MDF!

    It sounds like you will need to tighten you the Y belt tension.
    RingNeckBlues
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Floyd, it was nice meeting you at the conference. I guess I should have taken better notes during the machine maintenance session, is there a PDF somewhere on how to tighten the Y belt? Thanks.

    Mark

  4. #4
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    Mark,

    Same here! Here is a link to the maintenance documents on the CW site http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb...aintenance.php

    Any of the Y procedures have the belt adjustment steps. It was also included in the materials handed out for the machine session

    http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...474#post180474

    on page 12
    Last edited by fwharris; 07-17-2012 at 09:41 AM.
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
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    All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Default

    The Y Belt should never need to be tightened as it will not stretch until thousands of hours.... BUT... A few times in the life of my 4 machines I have tightened the Y Belt.... Only to have the Y give me more problems later.... What I failed to understand in the early years is that my Y Gear Box Bearings were wearing out and the Big Plastic Gear in the Y Gear Box was leaning toward the center of the machine and making the Belt LOOSE....

    So what the source of the Y Stall is more than likely the 2 little bearings are shot... and most likely the shaft of the big plastic gear is tapered thin and needs to be replaced. Lucky LHR sells the Big Gear and Shaft for about $8.00.... And the two METRIC bearings are for sale too locally or on the Internet.

    Look at the same post in Troubleshooting from yesterday with Pictures and Part Numbers.

    This is a very Common Problem.... That is why I recommend replacement of the 2 bearings every 250 cut hours with the Cut Motor Brushes.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  6. #6
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    Default

    I agree with Al and the Y motor bearings wear out first.
    Al I did not realize I could buy the gear and shaft from CW, Thanks for the info!
    Tom Watson
    Two CW's and D.C.-Top Mount Insert @ Ringneckblues.com Get the dust out!!
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by easybuilt View Post
    I agree with Al and the Y motor bearings wear out first.
    Al I did not realize I could buy the gear and shaft from CW, Thanks for the info!
    It took me replacing 3 Y Gear Boxes with old Z Pack Gear Boxes back when the 14 pin upgrade included a Z Motor... I even thought the Ball Bearings were a Babbitt Bearing... My bearing was so dusty.... It took someone posting here... HEY AL.... They got Bearings.... And I grabbed the Gear Box sitting on the shelf next to my computer and looked.... Hence the Picture with the 2 bearings....


    SO I was a little "Slow" to get up to speed on replacing the bearings.... I bought 8 of the shafts as I have at least that many gear boxes laying around... The only difference between the Z Gear Box and the Y is the Tapped Hole on top of the Z for the Spring bolt. That is why in some of my pictures you see a Threaded Hole on top of the Y Gearbox.


    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC07742_WEB.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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  8. #8
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    Maquoketa, Iowa
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    Thanks for the heads up Al, ...so much for the upgrade inspection back at the factory. I would have thought it would have ran more than one 30 minute job before crapping out on me. I guess I should have just changed out the CT myself.......disappointing. Oh well, I will order out the parts and rip the machine apart and see if I have any leftover parts when I get it back together. Thanks for all the responses.

    Mark

  9. #9
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    Maquoketa, Iowa
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    Well I got a PDF from LHR on how to diagnose my problem and I did find the Y belt tensioner screw loose or at least not very tight. I got about a quarter turn on it. I did remove the top cover all the way and unhooked the cut motor wires (my mistake apparently) When I put it back together and tested the machine, the bit plate now does not come out. My question is this, could the cut motor wires have been hooked up wrong? Does that affect the bit plate? If so would I have hurt anything by swithing them? I thought I would try that at least before I ordered bearings and other parts.

    Mark
    Last edited by mfdchief; 07-19-2012 at 11:27 AM.

  10. #10
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    Mark,

    It does not matter on the cut motor wires, they are just a switch loop for the circuit. On the bit plate make sure you have the wires from the cut motor pushes as far back into the corner to insure the Z motor does not hit them when it moves over to engage the bit plate. Also if the wires have the black plastic wire cover you can remove it to get better clearance for the Z motor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wire_2.jpg   wire cover.jpg  
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
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