New to carve wright

[amundo]

I have 5 projects under my belt and I have 3 mistakes. Mostly I kept the project under rollers and the machine cut to a smaller size, mostly likely the length was short a little. Now I have the length but I don't keep under rollers. I don't know if this is a mistake or not. I wish there was some locals that I could call to talk about the machine. The forum is great but takes longer!

[dbfletcher]

Really? Most question on the forum get at least one and typically several answers within a few minutes after posting. If you haven't read about or dont understand the "7 inch rule", there are a zillion post in the forum explaining when (and when it is not) needed. And how it applies to you design and carving. Please feel free to post any specific questions you may have about designing or the machine in general.

Here is a link that hopefully will help to get you started.
http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Dec07.pdf

and this one takes you to all the tips&tricks articles that are available.

http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/learn/tips.php

[Digitalwoodshop]

You can always call me... 570 Six Eight Five WOOD

Tips and Tricks is a GREAT place to start... Lots of GOOD Info...

Think of it as the Designer board Length and Real World Board Length... IF you select to stay under the rollers then your Physical Board must be 7 inches longer than the Designer board Length... IF the Designer Board and the Physical Board are the same length and you select to stay under the rollers the computer will take 7 inches of length from your Physical Board and SCALE DOWN the Artwork to fit in the remaining board... HENCE.... Miniature Signs....


To get more FRUGAL USE of WOOD... I use PLACE on END or CORNER rather than Center on board. That way I place a 4 inch area of UN CARVED wood on the RIGHT side of Designer, that is the front of the board as in the Brass Roller would be on the TOP of your Computer Screen. I design in the 4 inches for signs or I TAPE a 4 inch SCRAP Board to the front of the board then leave the board LONG and cut off the project from the end of the board after it carves and add the taped block on the end and cut again. I use 4 inches rather than 3.5 as it keeps the board .5 inches still under the roller....

You really want to keep the board under both rollers if possible. The Board popping OUT from under the roller while carving can lift and you will find a carved LINE in the Y Axis 3.5 inches from the end of the board.

Place on END over the life of the machine will cut your SERVO HOURS of Wear and Tear of the machine in HALF... Use CENTER ON BOARD and the machine measures the board TWICE..... Use Place on END and the machine moves to the end of the board and decides that it has enough WOOD to cut the project and Stops.... SAVING wear and tear on the machine....

The Oval Clock is an example of the board tipping up and loosing contact with the Brass Roller tracking the X Position. The Machine will keep moving the board until the correct reading of the brass roller hence the distance between cuts in the 4 pass Cut Path.... Try to design your projects to stay under the rollers...

WITH my design of adding a 4 inch DEAD AREA on the right side of designer and the board being LONGER than needed AND Selecting Place on END or CORNER, I ALWAYS SELECT to NOT STAY Under the Rollers AS I design the Project to have enough wood to stay under the rollers with the 4 inch dead area and don't need the machine to do it FOR ME and possibly SCALE the PROJECT.... Read this until you understand it.... It is a basic concept that you will use with every carving.... It is all in Project DESIGN....

WELCOME !!!


AL