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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Langley BC
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    Default Wood Type

    Just got my unit 3 weeks ago and this maybe a dumb question but for doing basic signs ( address's ) what type of wood gives the best finsh ( less sanding ).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
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    Default Best wood and best cutting speed

    Quote Originally Posted by markfettback@me.com View Post
    Just got my unit 3 weeks ago and this maybe a dumb question but for doing basic signs ( address's ) what type of wood gives the best finish ( less sanding ).
    The question is not that simple.
    You need to consider the carving to be made and the wood quality.
    Here is a link to a chart of some of the basic woods, showing the ability to be carved.
    http://forum.carvewright.com//attach...2&d=1205283058

    The sanding question may depend upon the combination od wood involved, the sharpness of the bit, and the speed of travel across the wood. I use the "Optimal" setting as I load the memory card, which gives me a finer carve, resulting in less sanding. I stay away from Oak on any project where I use and raster pattern, due to the loose grain of that wood.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Default

    hi and welcome to the forum!

    As Bud already stated, the answer is a bit complicated.... but to give you a few, I very much like carving in hard woods with tight grains such as maple, mesquite, cherry (though it burns a bit) and walnut. Most exotic woods can be carved quite nicely, but are pricy in larger quantities (rosewood, the ebonies, zircote, bubinga etc)

    Less-hard woods or woods with an open grain can give you mixed results, but I've still found them to work well-- (mahogany, the oaks/pecan/butternut)

    Traditional softwoods can be carved but will require either more care or some sanding (d fir, most pines, basswood, kauri, etc)

    I hope this helped,
    Lawrence

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Spring Arbor Michigan
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    Default

    Very nice work Terry. I think I'll try some aromatic cedar.

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CNC Carver View Post
    Very nice work Terry. I think I'll try some aromatic cedar.
    It is beautiful wood. Just some laquer sanding sealer and a gloss or satin top coat and your done. I carve everything on best or optimal. Usually all that is required is my dremel tool with a diamond bit to clean up the down hill side of the carve a little. I like the white streaks you often get going through the boards.

  6. #6
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    Feb 2011
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    New Jersey 07748
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    Default

    Generally speaking,,, Hard woods carve cleaner.. Pine gets a lot of what we call fuzzies... But There is the cost of hardwood verses pine.. I've carved lots of walnut and mahogany, both perform well, with very little sanding needed... I've carved various other hardwoods with very good results... Cocabola, bloodwood, maple, Jatoba, Bamboo... etc... But when it comes to basic stuff, I use plain old Pine... With a dremel an exacto knife and some sandpaper it cleans up pretty good... You can also burn the fuzzies with a propane torch, just don't over due it and char the wood... Then most of it easily shaves away with and exacto...
    Mans Quest for knowledge,,, means he'll always find a way !!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Spring Arbor Michigan
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    Default

    Thanks for the tips on finish also. Can't wait to have more time to devote to this hobby!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Default

    There is also the option of a sanding mop to clean up your carves.

    As well as, the quality setting you select.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Las Vegas NV
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    Default

    I agree with the wood mentioned, but would like to add Purple Heart very hard and very little clean up.

    Leo

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Jacksonville Beach, Fl
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    39

    Default

    If you can find a source European Beech carves GREAT!

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