Very nice Jason.
Never thought about the cooling part. Interesting .
Very nice Jason.
Never thought about the cooling part. Interesting .
Happy Carving
Robert D.
rcdages
CarveWright START U Team Member.
The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut
that held it's ground.
Just as a note. This machine was not cleaned prior to caving this project. I had caved a least 2 projects prior to this one without cleaning between projects. It is using a small 1 hp 650 cfm dust collector as well.
Dan,
Thanks for the added information on the video!!
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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Yesterday I got my 2 DC inserts from Jason (thanks you again btw). I install them today and gave them a test. (thank you Floyd for emailing the installation directions)
Project - colonial patriot eagle box, red oak wood, optimal carve setting. Running same project on 2 differnt machines.
My Version A machine: used a 106 CFM portable dust collector from Rikon. Version C Machine used a 914 CFM I got at HFT, which of course took care of business very handily with the DC Insert.
What surprised me the most how well the 106 CFM unit worked with the DC Insert. Pictures attached and if that is all I get for dust after a 3 hour carve and cut using a 106 CFM dust collection unit, I will take that any day.
Proof is in the pictures - thank you Floyd for an awesome product.
Attachment 53278Attachment 53279Attachment 53280Attachment 53281Attachment 53282
Last edited by chief2007; 05-19-2012 at 05:18 AM.
I too am amazed at how efficient Floyd's DC is and am upset with myself that I went so long without it.
I have the 660 CFM, 1hp unit from Harbor Freight and I swear, there is less than a tablespoon of dust left in the machine after a 5 hour carve.
It is amazing that your little 106 CFM does so well.
Kenny
Steve and Ken,
Thanks for posting your info on the DC-INSERT! I was also surprised how well the little 106 cfm dust collector did. Still a bit of dust left behind but sure a lot less with out it.
Thanks again,
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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Just sharing what the machine looked like after carving in some sign foam..
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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Hey Floyd, So the foam you used.... is it basically the same type as the pink foam from Home Depot? I've yet to carve on it and will probably do it soon. I'm guessing that it'll probably be best to use a paint spray pencil or something when it comes time to paint it up. Just don't know if using a brush would come out OK on the foam board.
I just carved this on some scrap wood that I had. I'm kinda thinking that maybe a spray paint pencil might be something to look in to.
JerryB:.
CarveWright START U Team Member
Using 1.187, Conform, PE/Probe, Centerline.
"Let's start sharing PTNs instead of MPCs so ALL SW versions can view & share"
Jerry,
No this is not the insulation board. It is HDU 15 lb sign board. Very dense material, no air pockets.
I have some of the insulation board but have not carved it. I think some have posted that they do some special treatment to the board before painting. On mine I just used black spray can paint then acrylic paint.
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.
I've been working on an upgraded design for the DC-INSERT. Working on increasing the intake length to gain more coverage over the board and increasing the depth/thickness to reduce the air restriction for better/increase air flow through the insert.
Intake end will be approximately 14 1/2" (gain of about 1/2") and doubled the over all area inside.
I was also asked to look at how to NOT CUT THE CLEAR COVER and still use the insert. Some are reluctant to modify the cover so I've been told. Looking at how the cover tabs match up to the switches it looks like a very simple solution. By adding a thin shim to the leading edge of the tab (long flat area that of the tab that pushes against the switch plunger) it will make the contact for the switch and hold the cover off of the insert. The plunger on the switch extends just enough out of the cover frame so that when the cover is closed the tab pushes the plunger in. The length of the tab is more than the area of the plunger so that the tab in fact rests against cover frame. No pictures right now but will get some up later. The shim does not need to be very thick, what I used as a test was a small piece of weed eater line cord to give you an idea of the thickness.
Some, me being one of em, have raised the concern of having the weight of the cover against the switches and causing them to fail or get pushed back. This might not be the case since the tabs do in fact rest against the frame..
Let me know your thoughts please!!
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.