Industria Synchroon - Project of the Month MARCH 2012

[chebytrk]

these are the kind of demo classes that we need at our upcoming conference.

Thanks, Ricky. So far, I've applied Sculpt Nouveau Brass B, Silver B and Copper B metallic paints. They have "B" and "C" formulas...the C formula has 600% more metal than the B formula and can be buffed, polished and handled just like real metal. I really like the C formula, but chose B because it's a little more economical and doesn't require the extra buffing/polishing to bring out the metallic sheen. Thinking using the "B" would be easier for "first time" users, if anyone wants to have as much fun with this stuff as I am! The "B" formula works great, and I like it very much, too. (see photos below of a project I did under contract with another company recently using the Silver B and a black wax)

I am very tempted to apply the Silver C formula over the gear - so I might do that - haven't decided for sure. (It is recommended to apply 2 coats of "B" then 2 coats of "C" to build up a good solid layer of metal before buffing, etc. - cheaper to get the first 2 coats laid down using B than to do all coats with C.) The gear does have nice flat areas that would not be too difficult to buff and polish.

After all the coatings have been applied, then I will "grunge" the heck out of it (using stains/patinas/or waxes) to make it look more like older metal for the most part. I had considered using some Bondo to apply a rough/wipe-down/coarse texture over pretty much all of it before applying the metal paint. However, the paint has enough "body" to it, that you can achieve a nice muted texture by "stippling" (pouncing) the end of your brush over the painted surfaces.

[jaroot]

Really nice project Michael. Might even give it a go when it is available to the general public. Great work!

[bayea]

cool, its available now !

[lynnfrwd]

cool, its available now !

Yes, it is. We decided last month not to make non-subscribers wait a month. POM Subscribers saved $30 on this months project.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mtylerfl]

these are the kind of demo classes that we need at our upcoming conference.

I have my fingers and toes crossed that Doug Haffner will cover that kind of stuff at the Conference...he is the resident expert on cool finishes!! Those of you who attended last year's CW Conference know how helpful, knowledgable and entertaining Doug is!!

[mtylerfl]

I "grunged" the big gear today. After applying a couple coats of clear Smart Coat (over the Silver B) and allowing to dry, I applied some Black Smart Stain, then wiped off.

I tried to "think like a worn gear", wiping/rubbing off the stain to highlight some areas I imagined would have "silver" showing through the "grunge" from wear and tear if it were a real gear. Photos don't really show the effect as well as in person. The dang thing actually DOES look very much like an old metal gear! I think I need to apply a final light coat of the clear Smart Coat over the now stained piece, but need to go check the directions again to be sure...

[ladjr]

Great job Mike. I have to wait until tomorrow to get started. It sure looks like a metal gear.

Leo

[mtylerfl]

Continuing on with the finish application...

I applied Sculpt Nouveau Black Smart Stain to the Panel assembly and Handle/Arms, then wiped/dabbed/rubbed the stain off to highlight the metal and textures. On the Gear that was done earlier, I used the Smart Stain undiluted, but on the Panel and Handles, I diluted the stain with equal amounts of Smart Stain AND Smart Coat 1K clear. I just mixed them in a foam cup and brushed the stain on with a disposable chip brush...then wiped, dabbed, etc. to highlight. I diluted it because I wanted a slightly more translucent stain and wouldn't need to wipe so much off like I did the Gear.

[mtylerfl]

Final Assembly...

I glued the dowels in all the holes. The 1" dowels are glued into the gear holes...the shorter 3/4" dowels are glued into the panel holes. I did need to "ream" out the holes so the dowels would fit nicely again because of some paint that got inside the holes during finishing. I just took a 1/4" drill bit and twisted it in & out of the holes by hand...took about a minute or two.

I elevated the panel from the flat worksurface using 4 popsicle sticks and five index cards at each corner. Then I elevated the gear by just using two 3/4" thick wood scraps under it. This gave me the right height positioning for the "floating gear" to account for the recesses where the handles are glued on the front. (That may make more sense when you actually assemble your own Synchroon.)

I then epoxy-glued the handles to the panel & gear, then glued the dowel button plugs to cover the holes. After the glue set, I cut a couple strips of self-stick felt to place on the underside, then pushed in the clock insert to finish the assembly.

[Smoken D]

Really came out GREAT Michael!