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Thread: What am I doing wrong?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Northern Utah
    Posts
    564

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    Easybuilt, where can I find Marsh's Spray Stencil black ink? I am not sure what store here may have it.

    Regarding poplar, I have used it twice to carve projects. The first time because I didn't know any better. The second time because I didn't learn from the first time. In both instances I re-did the projects and they turned out much, much better. I won't use poplar again because of all of the aforementioned problems in this thread. I do not like the way it sands and I do not like the final finish compared to other woods I have used. I may use it for other projects, but not carving.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    103

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    I see Graingers has the Marsh Spray Ink $5.85 a can.

  3. Default

    I use pine in 80% of my projects. Only a little fuzz that comes off with a nylon med grit flap brush in my drill press,
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    the fuzz is almost nada in optimum mode. I only got center line last month so not a lot of use of it yet.

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    The brush is available at ace hardware or at amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-788-4-Nyalox-Brush-4-Inch/dp/B00004YYCS

  4. #14

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    You might try putting on a coat of finish before routing. I carve lake maps out of pine with both carved and centerline features. I use Minwax Poylshades stain in the carved and centerline features. I get good results without the pre-coat, but if I apply a coat of clear polyurethane before any carving, I get no bleeding. I do sand the surface afterwards to remove the excess stain, and even if I end up sanding all of the initial clear coat off, the results are better than not using the pre-coat.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bonney Lake, Washington, United States, 113160055365328, Bonney Lake, Washington
    Posts
    1,800

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    Yes, I buy the Marsh's Spray stencil black #5xt13 from Grainger. When you buy a case you get free shipping.
    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...eadSearch.y=12
    Tom Watson
    Two CW's and D.C.-Top Mount Insert @ Ringneckblues.com Get the dust out!!
    50" X 48" PDJ Pilot Pro CNC http://www.pdjinc.com

    Check out my Facebook page for current carvings at http://www.facebook.com/signsinwood

    Watsons Wooden Words http://www.signsinwood.com & Messages in Wood http://www.messagesinwood.com/

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Sent a Reply PM Earlier but seeing the actual problem I have some suggestions other than in my PM...

    First of all.... Because the Wood Chipped then the paint in the text will follow the cut... and if chip out... then the paint shows off the chip out...

    I comes down to the wood choice.... This Popular Wood has very wide growth rings and is very un stable for lettering.

    My Pine Supplier gets me pretty good #2 pine with lots of Knots... I search through the stack and pick boards with Knots about every 17 inches or greater.... Since I use the Place on end and design in a 4 inch dead area of carving just to stay under the rollers, I end up using mostly Clear Pine between the knots..... It cuts well for me...

    I also use this Clear Pine for the Brown Signs you see in some of the Sign Posts I do... It comes from New Zealand and is a Hard Yellow Pine. It cuts like Maple and works great for my signs. I did try some clear pine from a local lumber yard that was Kiln Dryed... It was Stringy and when I cut the Flat Bottom Text with the 3/8th end mill bit, a day later the text looked like it was cut with a Dove Tail Bit... The sides of the bottom had shrunk into the board..... Like a dove tail.

    Then it comes to PAINT.... I had similar problems using SPRAY paint.... The Lighter paint wicking up the end grain of text..... I switched to brush on latex paint and It has been smooth sailing from there...

    SO I slop in the paint into the text, let it dry and sand it flush... Easy... Blow out the dust and slop on the oak stain... Cleaning out the text and using a air hose and a respirator to protect my lungs. I blow out the lettering of stain and wipe dry.... Same with Clear Poly... Slop it in and brush it around and wipe dry.... Then spray the excess poly out of the letters and dry again....

    the Thicker Latex Paint works better than spray thin paint....

    Another thing I would do is select BEST for the Text... IT slows it down slightly.... for a better cut... NEVER use Draft Mode... TOO FAST... TOO Rough...

    Good Luck,

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    I recently ordered some of the marsh's spray ink and look forward to trying it once it arrives.

    As far as the bleeding- I have had AMAZING success with open pored woods and softwoods using a washcoat of shellac (about 1# (lb) cut) Because of the capillary action in alcohol, woods that immediately swell from water-based conditioners will accept the sealcoat which then dries. With waterbased, the pores can swell, then shrink back again after drying, defeating the purpose (this is conjecture based on experience and from talking to a friend who specializes in finishing)

    I only use fresh home-mixed from flakes shellac and it works very well. Shellac flakes can be purchased online and last for years when stored in flake form in the fridge. (it is food safe)

    Lawrence

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Just picked it up at Ace (Blue One: Med/Fine) for $10.00 so far works great in my drill. They have two other colors/grits avaliable.
    Quote Originally Posted by gregsolano View Post
    I use pine in 80% of my projects. Only a little fuzz that comes off with a nylon med grit flap brush in my drill press,
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	blue med grit nylon.jpg 
Views:	40 
Size:	32.7 KB 
ID:	50643

    the fuzz is almost nada in optimum mode. I only got center line last month so not a lot of use of it yet.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1286.JPG 
Views:	58 
Size:	1.26 MB 
ID:	50641Click image for larger version. 

Name:	from env 304.jpg 
Views:	68 
Size:	404.2 KB 
ID:	50642

    The brush is available at ace hardware or at amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-788-4.../dp/B00004YYCS

  9. Default

    KeystoneChuck, Glad it worked out for you , I could not do with out it.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    103

    Default

    I appreciate all the finishing help you guys have given me. And keep the techniques coming I am literaly trying each and ever one to see what I like for time spent/technique/money spent/final look. I do have one tip for all the newbies like myself and it will save you lots of time, money, and aspirin, DO NOT BUY POPLAR WOOD. I just went from pulling my hair out to running around showing everyone what I made in a single step. I stopped carving the poplar wood. I bought about $60 worth thinking about all the signs I was going to make the first day. My (centerline text) signs stunk! I thought it was the bit, depth, stain, sanding paper...I just couldn't come to reality that cheaper pine would be better than the beautiful more expensive poplar. It might work for some people but not me. I went to Lowes and bought select pine for less and man did I have some killer signs. I am freaking out on how much better the pine is treating me. To quote myself I turned to my wife when it was done carving and said "I'm happier than a pig in poo". I have the meat and potatoes now I can really work on the finishing techniques. I was trying to finish junk (poplar wood) and like they say junk in junk out. I guess I was thinking the finishing techniques would magicialy transform the sign into something I see you guys putting up. Again my two cent newbie advice for making signs with the V carve bit with centerline DON'T USE POPLAR.

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