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Thread: Its time to buy

  1. #1

    Default Its time to buy

    I wil be ordering a sytem next week. sold one hobby, computerized christmas display, to expand my wood working hobby. just not enought time in the day. I ahve been looking at the carvewright for a long time and with thesale figured it was time. i will have $1500 to spend including shiping so my thought was to purchse the upgraded traction belts and the one year warranty. what about any other must have bits? also if i do the dust collecter upgrade will it void my warranty since it appears you have to cut the cover. kind of a catch 22 really need better dust collcetion but dont want to void the warranty. thankes for any help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Cutting the cover to install the dust collector will not void the warranty. The ready made dust collectors are really nice but if your budget is tight you can make your own pretty easily. There are several posts on the forum to help you with designing your own. As for bits, besides the 1/16" carving and 1/8" cutting bits I use the 60 deg and 90 deg vector bits and the 3/8" straight bit. I am going to buy a 3/16" straight bit as I think I can make use of it. I have also used the 1/2" round over and 3/16" roman ogee but not much. Also the 1/2" ball nose. You can buy all of these bits on EBAY pretty reasonable. Downright cheap if you want to use the generic brands. You might want to consider getting the conforming vectors and the center line text. The project software that comes with the CW is excellent but you might also want the pattern editor that comes with the scanning probe. I've only just started to use my scanning probe but it sure is fun. One last thing is the chuck. If you aren't ordering it with the carvetight chuck then order a rock chuck.
    Last edited by chkorte; 01-05-2012 at 10:22 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    5,314

    Default

    Add the 1/8" cutting bit at least. May consider Centerline & v-bits.

    Go ahead with the DC system. We will not void the warranty for that hole and will not require you to replace it, but you will need to sign a release of responsibility form.

    Connie
    CarveWright CX Packaged System - starting at $2000
    CarversClub 1 Year Subscription - $150.00/year
    Adv. Support w/out CC membership - $25.00/issue
    CarveWright Community Forum - PRICELESS!

  4. #4

    Default

    system 999
    heavey duty traction belt 139
    1 yr warranty 200
    total 1338 + shipping 82
    1420
    so i have 80 extra to spend so maybe another bit or two
    thanks for the info about the warranty

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brighton, TN
    Posts
    929

    Default

    When you can add a few more Dollars I second the suggestion on Conforming Vectors and Centerline text. A lot of us are using these features and for you to download and use these free MPC's you will need these enabled in the Designer software. I don't remember the actual price but I am sure Connie can chime in with it or you can go the the main CW site and look at the software area.
    Steve

    Centerline
    Pattern Editor
    Conforming Vectors
    DXF Importer
    STL Importer
    2D Advanced Tools
    Designer 1.187, 2.007 and **NONE** on Mac OS 10.15.6 and Windows 10 via Parallels on Mac

  6. Default

    Go with a small dust collector and if you can afford to a good unit like that from Ringneck Blues. We worked a week without a DC and then I splurged and got one...absolutely the single best thing you can get !!! Saves a LOT of cleaning time and prevents errors by keeping dust from getting where it doesnt belong.

    On a side note.... READ ALL of the Tips & Tricks and browse through the Troubleshooting Forum BEFORE YOU TURN THE MACHINE ON !!! Most of the problems people encounter can be easily prevented simply by understanding how the machine works. also, take time and make a carving sled...I have adjustable rails on mine and its been great. 3/4 MDF and a couple Shop Fox T-Tracks. a $20 project that makes life a lot easier.

    Brad

  7. #7

    Default

    thanks for the help, i have been reading and reading and reading i think the one thing i have learned is to make sure you know the machine as much as you can before operation. lol i have a dust collector just need the best method of attaching it to the machine. i will look at the one from Ringneck Blues.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wylie, Tx
    Posts
    1,680

    Default

    Hey Brad, Just wondering if you have a pic of the sled you've made with the adjustable rails.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Wardman View Post
    Go with a small dust collector and if you can afford to a good unit like that from Ringneck Blues. We worked a week without a DC and then I splurged and got one...absolutely the single best thing you can get !!! Saves a LOT of cleaning time and prevents errors by keeping dust from getting where it doesnt belong.

    On a side note.... READ ALL of the Tips & Tricks and browse through the Troubleshooting Forum BEFORE YOU TURN THE MACHINE ON !!! Most of the problems people encounter can be easily prevented simply by understanding how the machine works. also, take time and make a carving sled...I have adjustable rails on mine and its been great. 3/4 MDF and a couple Shop Fox T-Tracks. a $20 project that makes life a lot easier.

    Brad
    JerryB:.

    CarveWright START U Team Member
    Using 1.187, Conform, PE/Probe, Centerline.

    "Let's start sharing PTNs instead of MPCs so ALL SW versions can view & share"

  9. Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	002.JPG 
Views:	113 
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ID:	50202chebytrk...

    Here is a quick pic of my carving sled. Overall is 14-1/2" x 24". Its 3/4" MDF with a glued on (replaceable) 1/4" plywood topper, T-Tracks, sliding runners and a tape measure for placement.

    Dadoed out to hold the two T-Tracks jut below flush (though it has been dinged with the blade a time or two).
    Runner boards are 4" wide MDF with Oval head bolts countersunk and a Jam nut to hold it to the track. (Have these in different standard thicknesses to match the project thickness).

    A shallow Dado in the center holds a stick-on metal measure that you can get at Wally World.

    I just center my project (L to R) at the front edge....place the runners tight against the project. Usually add a small piece or two of double sided outdoor carpet tape to the back of the project, then use masking tape to extra secure the board to the runner tops. I also add a piece of blue tape to the sled at the back of the project board and to the outside edges of the runners....seems to measure better with the contrast. Also, put a piece of masking along the bottom where the sled runs on the brass roller. (This will last several dozen projects before needing replacement).

    Hope this helps...let me know if you have question.
    Brad

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Northern Utah
    Posts
    903

    Default

    Great looking sled. Any chance you could walk us through a typical carve using it? How does the machine differentiate between the brass roller still having contact yet the board sensor reaches the "end". Just wondering cause that looks like something that would really come in handy.


    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Wardman View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	002.JPG 
Views:	113 
Size:	202.7 KB 
ID:	50202chebytrk...

    Here is a quick pic of my carving sled. Overall is 14-1/2" x 24". Its 3/4" MDF with a glued on (replaceable) 1/4" plywood topper, T-Tracks, sliding runners and a tape measure for placement.

    Dadoed out to hold the two T-Tracks jut below flush (though it has been dinged with the blade a time or two).
    Runner boards are 4" wide MDF with Oval head bolts countersunk and a Jam nut to hold it to the track. (Have these in different standard thicknesses to match the project thickness).

    A shallow Dado in the center holds a stick-on metal measure that you can get at Wally World.

    I just center my project (L to R) at the front edge....place the runners tight against the project. Usually add a small piece or two of double sided outdoor carpet tape to the back of the project, then use masking tape to extra secure the board to the runner tops. I also add a piece of blue tape to the sled at the back of the project board and to the outside edges of the runners....seems to measure better with the contrast. Also, put a piece of masking along the bottom where the sled runs on the brass roller. (This will last several dozen projects before needing replacement).

    Hope this helps...let me know if you have question.
    Brad
    Sometimes I'm just totally underwhelmed!
    Series "A" Craftsman with Carvetight.

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