Newbie fret slot cutting question

[Corvus Instruments]

Hi there,
Leo Pedersen here with my brand new CarveWright machine trying to learn how to cut guitar fretboards with it.

I've searched extensively through the forum trying to learn how to cut fret slots.

I understand the importance of sleds, and I see that LiquidGuitars just scores his fretslots on the CarveWright but I'm dying to know: with what kind of bit?

Can the scoring be done with the regular carving bits? Or does it require special 0.02" bits? I've found such bits online but can't find how to adapt their 1/8" shank to my CarveTight system.


Any help would be sincerely appreciated!

cheers

[bergerud]

I believe the 1/16" cutting bit has a 1/8" shank and comes with a pressed on sleeve to make it 1/4". You could press off this sleeve and use it on any other 1/8" carbide shank. Just an idea. Also check out whether the Rock has adapters that can be used with the CT.

[lynnfrwd]

It's a 1/4" when we get it. Just takes 1/4" split collet.


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[bergerud]

My point was that the 1/16" cutting bit is really solid carbide bit with a 1/8" shank. It has a 1/4" steel sleeve pressed on it. This steel sleeve can be pressed off and used on any 1/8" shank carbide bit. Anyone interested can see the bit and sleeve at the store:

http://store.carvewright.com/product...cat=291&page=1

[lynnfrwd]

I don't think you can press it off, but i guess it's worth a try.

Robert D bought one last week and we both discovered they don't look like that anymore. They now look more like they were "dipped" in steel. I'll try to get a photo later today.


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[liquidguitars]

I understand the importance of sleds, and I see that LiquidGuitars just scores his fret slots on the CarveWright but I'm dying to know: with what kind of bit?

I use a 1/8 carbide scribe bit sold at Sears works well... you can also use the 1/16" ball nose carving bit, I follow up with the StewMac .022 Japanese saw....

On a side note now the conform vector is a reality you will be able to make curved slots Thanks to LHR it's a win win !!! Hope this helps a bit....


fun with slots:

[rcdages]

The CarveWright 1/16” Cutting Bit, which allows more intricate cut outs through thinner stock – even 1/4” material. 0.0625in Tip 3 Flute Straight Carbide end mill, 0.313in EFL. The 1/16" cutting Bit comes with a pressed adapter that allows it to be used in the 1/4" Split Collect for the CarveTight Spindle System, or a Quick Change bit adaptor http://store.carvewright.com/product...cat=291&page=1 The above is from the store page. If you were to have a pressed on adapter there would be no need to use a split collect. If the pressed adapter was not on the bit then you would need to us the split collect. I believe the wording along with a new photo of the bit would help. Am I collect in this statement Connie?

[Corvus Instruments]

Thanks so much for your reply LG

So am I understanding correctly that in order to use 1/8" bits you must have a CarveWright without the CarveTight on it?

And since I have the CarveTight on my machine I'll have to use the 1/16" ball nose bit as you suggested?

I have the right StewMac saw to follow up with, my main issue is that I want to experiment with some non-standard fret placements (fanned-frets & other stuff) that require high accuracy and for which the standard fretting templates won't work.


Beautiful work by the way! I particularly love your electric violin and mandolin builds - super nice!

cheers,
Leo

I use a 1/8 carbide scribe bit sold at Sears works well... you can also use the 1/16" ball nose carving bit, I follow up with the StewMac .022 Japanese saw....

On a side note now the conform vector is a reality you will be able to make curved slots Thanks to LHR it's a win win !!! Hope this helps a bit....


fun with slots:

[liquidguitars]

Thank you...

Frist you will need the Rock or the Carvetight to make guitars without it would be like going to hell wihtout a round trip ticket.

No issue for me using a 1/8" to 1/2" sleave to run the bits so you can test all of them if your tricky try the 1/16" carving at very low cut this will make a back space like a file would. Ching ching ching what that noise... Hmmm MONEY!


BTW I did the fan fret layout and it looks like it would be a winner...

[lynnfrwd]

I have been corrected. The old style 1/16" cutting bit came to us with a hard pressed adapter that made them 1/4" shank with the outer part being steel. These used just the 1/4" split collet.

The new style 1/16" cutting comes with a full 1/4" shank of all carbide. They also use the 1/4" split collet. I asked why you could use the 1/4" split collet on these new carbide bits, but not the larger carving & cutting carbide bits. The reason is because the bit is so much smaller, it doesn't have the same amount of torque on it as the larger carbide bits do, therefore it is not as susceptible to slippage.

Here is a photo of the new 1/16" cutting bits: