new chuck question

[c_mjenkins]

hopefully im going to order one of the new chucks tomorrow, and i was hoping to get some advice on which one would be the best for me. what if any are the advantages of the rock over the carvetite, i think with the carvetite you get a whole new z truck and that might b good for me because mine appears to be broke, the little black clip that sticks out on the left side seems like it is broken would this come with the new carvetite. but i think i can use my current 1/8 and 1/16 bit with the rock that would save me 80 dollars if i had to buy new ones for the carvetite. any of your thoughts would be appeciated thank you

[Digitalwoodshop]

That little plastic black clip was for a Homing System in 2007 and no longer used, so broke is OK...

Good Luck with your choices... They are both GOOD... It all comes down to the Bits...

AL

[cnsranch]

No offense to anyone, but I'm dancing with the one who brung me....my CarveTight ships today.

[Icutone2]

Good upgrade you will like it.
Lee

[CarverJerry]

I'd say they are both great tool holding devices, the Rock you have to set the tool length each time, no big deal, and the carvetight you have to use tools from Carvewright that has the pressed on ring. I use the Rock because the carvetight wasn't developed yet, I haven't had any problems what so ever with it. Being a machinist I have many different end mills which I"ve used in my carvewright and the Rock has done me a really great job. Good luck on your choice...

[chevytrucking]

I'm curious about the chucks too, but I've got the old QC chuck that came with the machine and I've never had any issues with it. What's driving everyone to want to change it? Am I missing something big here?

[cnsranch]

I've had my machine almost 4 years, and never had a problem with the QC. It's worked great, until last weekend.

The QC has been a problem for lots of folks, and has caused lots of problems. IMO, it's a great piece of equipment, and a great design, but prone to problems if not used correctly, or maintained well. (there are also many folks who will tell you just the opposite - that it wasn't all that).

In any event, if you ever see indentations on the adapters that hold the bit (typically called "BB marks", because they look like dents that a BB would cause), and that go into the QC, it's time to replace the QC. Those three tell-tale dents tell you that the QC can now be used as a paper weight.

I shelled mine out on Sunday - broke my heart. With no choice but to change it out, I went with the CarveTight.

It's not a cheap thing to do, but to tell you the truth, I've been waiting for the last six months for the inevitable to happen, and now that it has, I'm looking forward to the greatest tool in my shop to be even better.

[chief2007]

The old QC chuck is good as long as you make sure the bits are seated corrected, carvetight eliminates the worry, does have less vibration and seems to carve better. There are after market adapter to set up you bits, although LHR recommends using the pressed on carbide bits. I have install 2 carvetight on 2 on my older machines. I do not regret it at all. After the QC failed on me half way through a project and cost me more in wood than what the QC cost, I made the change to the carvetight

Picture of my decorative bits in the adapters and stop collars I use with my carve tight. I do have the 1/8 cutting and 1/16 carving bits in the same configuration and have had no problems with them. If you make the change you won't regret it
.Attachment 49085

[northey87]

One issue that I have noticed with the carvetight, and possibly the same with Rock, is that if you don't crank the lock screw hard enough that bits with .25" shanks using and adaptor can vibrate out of place and cause damage to the piece you are carving. Just my 2cents

[kool69sporty]

c_m, I have a Rock chuck and another after market chuck on a 2nd CW, called a "Muscle" chuck. They are both good, but the muscle has a permanent stop plate for setting bit depth. it is somewhat smaller and lighter and has a means to adjust runout. My muscle runs with 0.003" TIR, rock with about 0.005". Muscle might be a little cheaper, too, that's if its still available. Just my 2 cents, Joe