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Thread: moving all objects as a group

  1. #1
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    Default moving all objects as a group

    I'm pretty happy with design but some how it has ended up too close to the end of the board on one end . I am using .200 grind and would like to move everything .400 to the left. can it be done?
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  2. #2
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    Default Move design on board

    Quote Originally Posted by Normd View Post
    I'm pretty happy with design but some how it has ended up too close to the end of the board on one end . I am using .200 grind and would like to move everything .400 to the left. can it be done?
    I just tested your situation. I see many items locked to the edge, but we can overcome the issue!

    1) Go to EDIT > SELECT ALL, and click. (Everything should now be highlighted)
    2) Click COPY.
    3) Go to File and click NEW.
    4) Size this design board the same as your original.
    5) Click PASTE.
    6) As in step #1, SELECT ALL.
    7) Hold down CTRL and de-select the fish. (Everything else should still be highlighted)
    8 ) Move those items as you wish.
    9) re-locate the fish, if needed.
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  3. #3
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    Jan 2007
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    Default

    Nice Design... Lots of work.... To make this move since you are wanting to move everything to the right.... It is easier to just load a board that is longer and cut it off .400 longer....

    This project as designed would more than likely become firewood and likely snap the drill bit... The reason is the board is TOO SHORT and will not be held by 2 rollers flat to the table. When the board gets close to the edge only being held by one roller it can tip up and the brass roller will loose contact with the bottom of the board. A the least the board will move and the brass roller not and this results in the holes drilled in a different area than you planned. The likely result will be the board loosing contact with the brass roller while drilling and the bit snapping... That is $40.00 Please.....

    So back to your question as to how to make the move .400 to the left or right... The first thing you will need to do is on the left select each hole one at a time. Look at the numbers and if they are GREEN you move to the next hole. IF they are YELLOW and most are... That tells you that you assigned a Restraint to the hole as in .05 from the edge and .05 from the centerline. This LOCKS that hole to that spot and is WHY when you select ALL and try to move them, it is a NO GO.... Had they all been GREEN it would have moved.... Provided that the Center Buttons were not selected for any hole. It just takes one hole to be locked in it's position to NOT let you move the whole group.

    SO.... Select each hole one at a time and if it is yellow then right click on the yellow and select "Remove Attachment" for EVERY Hole....

    Once that is done, you can select all and move it.... IF the Fish is Centered with the Buttons, didn't look... That will prevent you from moving the whole group..... You need to De Select Center on the fish.

    Using the Attachment is a good way to Build the Artwork but you must go back and change them all to Green... Some HAVE cut boards like yours in the past and the results were holes not in the correct place... See old postings.... It came down to a slightly different size board OR a board that was TOO SHORT..... and it came out from under the rollers and moved.

    SO IF I was doing this project I would first remove all the attachments. Then make the board 8 inches longer in designer. I would draw a 4 inch box and place it on the right side of designer. Put nothing in this area. IT will be the blank wood that stays under the rollers when you select to NOT stay under rollers.... (IF you select to Stay Under Rollers it will subtract 7 inches from your actual board and Scale the project smaller) YOU are putting in a FAKE Stay under Rollers manually..... So place the artwork in the center of the board and the other 4 inches is for the left side of Designer and also a blank area. This keeps the board under 2 rollers and flat to the table. Masking Tape on the board at the brass roller is insurance as the brass roller will make tracks in the tape like a rack and pinion. ANY slip in the brass roller to board will result in FIREWOOD....

    Lots of posts on this type of project and the FireWOOD it made... Everyone pissed at the machine.... Pilot Error in NOT following the instructions above are the reason they failed.... Follow this and you will make a GREAT Project that you can cut the excess wood off after carving......

    I sometimes TAPE a 4 inch wood blank to the end of the Actual Board like this Clock Picture I posted yesterday. And I leave the Board LONG... After it is carved, I use my radial arm saw to cut the Clock off the long board and move the 4 inch blank to the end of the long board and go again....

    Good Luck,

    AL

    The Oval Clock shows what Stair Stepping looks like when making a 4 pass cut path and the board lost contact with the brass roller. The computer keeps moving the board until the brass roller reads the correct number. IF it looses contact, you loose registration and make FireWOOD.

    See the Artwork with the 4 inch DEAD ZONE to the Right of Designer....

    YOU could make a Sled with the 4 inch dead zone on each end and just drop in your expensive wood cut to the exact size..... Hold with masking tape.


    Busted... Took me about 8 min to type all this... Ask Bud beat me.... But I don't think his method will work UNTIL you remove all the Restraints on Each and every hole. My post above will explain WHY...

    Update... See post below... I was WRONG... Ask Bud CORRECT.... Learned something new.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00793_WEB.jpg   B3.jpg   DSC00924_WEB.jpg   DSC07951_WEB.jpg  

    DSC07950_WEB.jpg  
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 09-10-2011 at 02:01 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  4. #4
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    Default

    This is worth a second post.... HOLY POOP Batman.... Ask Bud's copy and paste into a NEW BOARD resulted is all the YELLOW Restraints to Disappear and they are ALL GREEN.... This is NEW to ME.... Sorry Ask Bud... You were 100% Correct..... I stand Corrected.... See the Fish is Centered and the hole I selected on the new board is GREEN...... WOW.... Humbled... and Learned something NEW.... It would have taken HOURS to select every hole and change the Restraint....

    THANKS ASK BUD.... I Humbly BOW to the MASTER....

    AL who cares....
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  5. #5

    Default

    Al,
    I use locked restraints residually 20% of the time " I do a lot of flipped layouts a and b side Violin stuff and can't relay say any negative machining incurred on my Mpc's.

    What are you experiencing as a side effect?
    Last edited by liquidguitars; 09-10-2011 at 11:59 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Fort COLLINS CQ
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    Default

    Thanks All ; I learned a lot it works. I run one more in pine before I go to harder wood.
    Norm

  7. #7
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    Default

    I do use a sled and allow about 1/4 in on each end+-.

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