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Thread: Things to look for when buying a used CW

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    New Windsor, MD
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    688

    Default Things to look for when buying a used CW

    I found someone selling a used carvewright, actually a compucarve. What are the list of things I should look for and ask about before buying? He said it had about 100 hours on it.

  2. Default

    number of hours which you know, the version A, B, or C, (C is the newest and best) A machines were the most unreliable. What type of chuck does it have? Quick Chuck (you will want to replace it with the carve tight or Rock as soon as possible), or a Rock chuck (an after market chuck) or the Carve tight which is the newest from Carvewright and was the standard in version C. look at cleanliness, was the machine kept clean and lubed? Look at the sheath on the flex cable for signs of over heating. A used machine in working condition should be about $800 to $1000. Make sure it has the memory card, the programmer, bits and bit change out tools. warranties and software including the probe software are not transferable and you will have to repurchase. The basic designer software is transferable, get a receipt for the purchase you will need it to transfer the software and machine registration.

    I just noticed you said its a compucarve so that means it is a version A or B.
    Last edited by gregsolano; 07-08-2011 at 01:33 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Louisburg, KS
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    2,651

    Default

    You've been around for three years, but it's not clear if you actively use a machine now. If this is your first, unless you're mechanically inclined, I'd buy a new machine, and run away from a used one.

    But that's just me.
    Livin' Life
    Lovin' My Carvewright

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
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    Default

    If it's an A make sure it has had the A907 upgrade. If u can get the serial # call LHR and find out the machine history. Look at upgrade costs cause by the time u r done, u might could have bought a new version c on sale.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Default this is true

    Quote Originally Posted by cnsranch View Post
    You've been around for three years, but it's not clear if you actively use a machine now. If this is your first, unless you're mechanically inclined, I'd buy a new machine, and run away from a used one.

    But that's just me.
    True, I have been wanting one for at least three years, but haven't bought one yet. Other things keep getting priority in the budget, new roof, new shocks, brakes, pads and calipers for the wife's truck, kids college education etc. I'm sure you know how that goes. But I saw a used one listed on craigslist and saw an opportunity to actually buy one for less. So are you saying that even if I go an look at it and it appears to run OK and I have checked for all the suggestions I got here I should still stay away from the used one?

    I assume that means the "reconditioned good as new versions C" ones on ebay also?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
    Posts
    3,967

    Default LHR-Open Box

    Quote Originally Posted by dltccf View Post
    True, I have been wanting one for at least three years, but haven't bought one yet. Other things keep getting priority in the budget, new roof, new shocks, brakes, pads and calipers for the wife's truck, kids college education etc. I'm sure you know how that goes. But I saw a used one listed on craigslist and saw an opportunity to actually buy one for less. So are you saying that even if I go an look at it and it appears to run OK and I have checked for all the suggestions I got here I should still stay away from the used one?

    I assume that means the "reconditioned good as new versions C" ones on ebay also?
    Why do you think a "New C Machine" would need to be reconditioned?
    Before I buy that offer, I'd check with LHR and see if they still have any "Open Box Units" to sell. Two days ago there were still some on hand.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Dana Point, CA
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    Default

    What is the difference between an A and a B and how would you know which one you've got?

    Kenny

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Snellville, GA
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    1,475

    Default

    First character of the serial number on the machine tells you A, B, or C
    Fair winds,

    Capt Bruce
    Kinney deSigns http://kinneydesigns.us
    CarveWright START U Team Member.

    30 year USN SEABEE, the original Weapons of Mass Construction.
    Designer Ver 1.187 and 2.007, Ver.3.001 One 2009 B CW w ROCK and a 5th Year Anniversary C CW
    Rotary Jig, 2D and 3D, Tracing Probe, DFX and STL Importers

    .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    New Windsor, MD
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    688

    Default I did it!

    Thanks to all for the buying advice. I just pulled the trigger and ordered one of the open box specials Carvewright has been advertising this morning. I am so excited.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Indiana, PA
    Posts
    2,560

    Default

    Awesome! I'm sure you'll have a blast. When in doubt about anything regarding the CW, it is always best to post your questions or concerns here. As you have seen, this is a very active forum with many members willing to go way out of thier way to help you be successfull with this fun.. but often times frustrating machine.
    Doug Fletcher

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