sled

[normd]

I'm to cheap to keep throwing away 14 inches of board every project! Would using a sled stop this waste? If so ? Design and use help would be appreciated!
Normd

[Smoken D]

14? should only be 7, 3 1/2 each end. I figured a sled was needed very quickly when I started. Here are a few threads I found using "sleds" in the search function;

http://forum.carvewright.com/search.php?searchid=633293

And a photo of my sled's

And this thread also

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...light=Smoken+D

[Digitalwoodshop]

Even as basic as this....

AL

[Capt Bruce]

Good morning Normd,

When I first started using my CW I picked up the 7" rule quickly for the same desire you noted to conserve good wood. Between that and the emphasis on a single true edge to ride on the brass roller I adopted a simple rule for running projects. I selected a good straight length of each common board size (IE 4", 6", 8", 10" and 12") about four foot long. Squared one end of each and added a 3.5" long end block of the same width screwed on square at the left square end that will be loaded first. I keep similar 3.5" loose blocks with them. Each carrier board then gets tape applied on the roller riding bottom edge. I do check that these carrier boards have flat bottom surfaces for good belt contact and no cupping that might keep the edge off the roller.

To run a project I just check the carrier edge, load my board on top of the carrier board of the appropriate same width (above) and tape it on at the fixed end block and also down near the other end of the carrier. If the carving piece is short I add the loose block following the work piece with more tape to ensure it will always be under the rollers. If it is longer than the carrier I adjust my roller ball support stand to support the extended board.

Knowing that my brass roller contact edge (carrier) will always be true and straight saves multiple inspections and I only have to renew the taped bottom edge on one piece occasionally. For the first cut out on a new board I start it "at corner" and subsequent projects are started "at point on edge" measured and marked on the board to the right of the last project by adding the intended length of the new carving. Works for me. I'll add photos if this confuses anyone. Using this technique has saved me more good wood than was required to set aside these "common wood size" carriers for the past 2 years or more.

[liquidguitars]

Hello,

I like to add a small correction to Captain Bruce's post, if you make a sled please do not use 3.5" tails/ blocks but make the blocks 4" or larger, the 7" rule is the smallest you can go from center of the roller to the center that it, no magic programing.

Adding more to the tails makes a more stable work sled. Once you make 4" tails" or bigger" you can also load the tail under the board sensor and never need tape on the top to trick the CW to measure correctly. Think of the larger tail as a race track for the board sensor.

[Capt Bruce]

I bow to the Master Obi Wan LG,

A good point as my fixed end blocks all have a few carved into spots where the pattern lapped over into the edge just a bit depending upon what draft was applied to the MPC. It's about time I renewed them anyway after two years. Thanks Brandon

[normd]

Do the end blocks nee to be the same thickness as the project material? Your right I double 7 not 3 1/2 oops . thanks everybody for the help
Norm

[Smoken D]

Yes, if they will be going under the rollers they should be the same thickness. That is why I make my ends removeable along the "T" track. That way can put on half inch or three quarter ends to accomidate thickness of project and use the same sled for both.

[normd]

Thanks I need to make a run to rockler for t-track but I think I understand enough to get this thing made now. At the price of wood you'd think it didn't grow on trees!

[nuchie]

I need to make a sled for thiner products. Goes someone have a plan I can download or follow.
Thanks,
Leo