Spindle Puller

[bergerud]

If one wants to replace the spindle or the spindle bearings, one has to have a method to remove the spindle. The problem is that these bearings will be tight and this will require some force. One cannot get behind the inner races of either bearing, and so, removing them from the spindle shaft will probably damage them. This is not designed to be a user serviceable part. (Warranty void!!)

When I removed my spindle to replace the bearings, I blocked the truck from below and punched out the spindle shaft from above. (If you do try this, make sure you do not block the bottom bearing when you block the truck as the bottom bearing comes out easily with the spindle. The problem is just to punch the spindle shaft out of the small top bearing. Also, put something soft below to protect the belts if the spindle falls.)

I cannot recommend the above as a safe procedure as parts may be damaged if you are not careful. The accepted method for such a removal would, of course, be to use a press. This, I think, would require removal of the truck from the machine. The purpose of this thread is to discuss and/or invent a safe and simple removal method which does not require the truck to be beaten or removed from the machine.

My second thought would be to make a puller to pull the shaft from below. To try my idea, you will need:

1. a 2 ½ " long ¼ " bolt and three nuts. (fine thread is better)
2. a 2” long piece 1 ½ " OD thin wall pipe with a slight angle clearance cut from one side of the top. (see the first picture)
3. a large 1 ½ " plus, thick washer.
4. two small pieces of curved wooden shims. These have to wedge between the QC (when adapter is in) and the bottom bearing (and stay inside the pipe).

First, remove the flex shaft, the flexshaft receptacle, and the small clip on the top of the spindle shaft. Slide the plastic outer sleeve down off of the QC. Put the bolt down through a ¼ " bit adapter, tighten the set screws and put the adapter into the QC. Press fit the two wood shims between the top of the QC and the bottom bearing. (These shims are required so the QC cannot let go of the adapter when we pull on it.) Place the pipe over the QC and up against the bottom of the truck with the clearance cut on the top of the pipe at the back. Put the washer and nut on the bolt and tighten finger tight. Adjust the top of the pipe to make sure it fits and is not going to interfere with the outer race of the bottom bearing. Now thread on two more nuts at the end of the bolt and lock them together. With the machine cranked to the top and the truck at the bottom of travel, put one wrench on the lock nuts and tighten the washer nut until the top of the spindle is pulled out of the top bearing.

I cannot fully test this procedure since I do not have a virgin spindle system. I hope one of you will volunteer to test and report.

[AskBud]

Virginity is not the question!
The real question/point, is that you really need the original spec showing all the parts of the spindle assembly. It's probably within the Patent Papers.

You need to see the sequence of how the spindle assembly was put together in the first place. Once you know those facts, you may then attempt to reverse the process.
Respectfully, AskBud

[Jeff_Birt]

Clever puller Bergerus. As long as the QC stays in place it will work fine. When I changed out my bearings I pulled the truck off and first removed the QC. Then using some sockets as spacers, one a bit smaller than shaft at the top, and one a little larger than the bearing on the bottom I was able to press the shaft out with my bench vise (as you are only pressing against the sockets.) Once the shaft is out you can use typical methods for getting the bottom bearing off the shaft.

Some tips to everyone:

1) Before trying this yourself take a look at the square hole in the top of your spindle shaft. This is what the drive shaft/spring locks into and if it is really torn up you may be better off replacing the whole Z-truck rather than buying a shaft and bearings.

2) Take care when putting things back together to press everything in squarely or the tolerance rings (wavy things) will tend to pop out during use.

3) Use common sense when doing this, it does not take a lot of force so if you are really having to try hard - stop and figure out what you are doing wrong.

4) When pressing bearings on/off always try to press only on the inner race or the inner and outer race at the same time. Pressing on only the outer race on the ball area can damage the bearings.

[bergerud]

I have had mine apart many times AskBud. I know exactly what is in there. The only question is whether the rig will pull hard enough to pull out a virgin spindle.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Had another thought.... http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ler-95987.html

This is what I will use when I try this at home.... Removing the Truck from the machine and chucking up a 1/4 inch long bolt with a 1/4 inch outside smooth boar for the chuck... This 1/4 inch bolt looks like it will screw into the end of the sliding hammer much like the bearing fingers shown with it. A few taps of the sliding hammer and if the C Clip is removed the guts should pop out....

Not much different that tapping on the top of the spindle but more violent than Jeff's Vice and 2 Sockets... Jeff's idea would do less damage to the bearings.... Pressure rather than shock...

AL

[AskBud]

Arbor press
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=arbor+press
AskBud

[jaroot]

Some tips to everyone:

2) Take care when putting things back together to press everything in squarely or the tolerance rings (wavy things) will tend to pop out during use.

4) When pressing bearings on/off always try to press only on the inner race or the inner and outer race at the same time. Pressing on only the outer race on the ball area can damage the bearings.

2. We have a refurbished machine and that happened to it. The first time I sent the z truck to LHR for repair, which they did free of charge. Thank you LHR, they didn't have to as the machine was "no warranty." The second time it happened, just a few hours later, I removed the truck and punched the tolerance ring back in and punched three depressions in the housing and never had another problem with it. However now that you mention that the bearings not being set square causes the tolerance ring to back out; that would explain why we had such a dramatic improvement in quality and noise reduction when we put in the Carvetight.

4. I'm not an engineer or much of a mechanic for that matter but beating on the center race rather than the outer race seems counter intuitive. Is that correct? And I ask this merely because I want to make sure that I understand. I'm not trying to rain on anybodies parade. <-insert smiley

[Fletcher]

4. I'm not an engineer or much of a mechanic for that matter but beating on the center race rather than the outer race seems counter intuitive. Is that correct? And I ask this merely because I want to make sure that I understand. I'm not trying to rain on anybodies parade. <-insert smiley

The center race is what is actually holding onto the shaft, the outer race is just riding around the outside on the actual ball bearings inside. If you beat on the outer race you are putting shock and force on the balls and the tracks they ride in. This can put little dents in the track or "race" which then interfere with the function of the bearing. Smooth road vs. bumpy road, one is better for your car, one isn't....

I hope that makes sense! <smile>

[Fletcher]

Brilliant solution BTW Bergerud!

[bergerud]

You know, if it was not for the risk of damaging the top bearing when removing the spindle, this (the spindle puller this thread was about) would have been a better solution to the QC removal problem we all had years ago. Remember the heat, the cursing of Loctite, the stupid square spindle wrench which always broke? On the other hand, the top bearing (6000DU) is a cheap standard bearing available anywhere. The bottom bearing (6002V, I think the V means non contact seal for high rpm), is not so standard is not damaged unless you try to later remove it from the spindle after the spindle is out. But you would not have to remove the bottom bearing. Once the spindle is out, put the fat part of the spindle in a vise and unscrew the QC. Screw on a new QC or the Rock. Put it back together with a new bearing on top and all would have been good again.

It is what I would have done if I knew then what I know now.