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Thread: Make Your Own ER11 Spindle

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    NE PA USA
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    9,895

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    I understand the time factor.... I am super busy too....

    This is a Great option and the 2 wrenches would work for me... Or the lock...

    Thanks,

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Milton, ON, Canada
    Posts
    176

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    Awesome modification!
    ROCKin' with my Dust Collector - Get the mpc here
    http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...ve-it-yourself

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    79

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    Berger, I think many of us would be interested if you could offer your source for parts and more specifics for making the ER fit the CW. THNX. Joe
    Plea of Insanity for Addiction to ol' H-D Sporters

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Provo, UT
    Posts
    387

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    PCH-ER11-0500 $69.00 on sale @ Gaging.com. Didn't get a price on collets tho. The only real challenge would be making the square hole for the flex.
    Ron

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,167

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    Just search ebay with "ER11 shank". There are cheap ones from China for around $25. These are hardened steel and seem ok to me. There are more expensive American ones of stainless and ones with nice mini nuts. Also search Google. They all have different shank sizes and are hollow for a draw bolt. Buy one with either 10 or 12 mm shank. The ones with larger shanks have bigger hollows and may not turn down to 10mm for the top bearing. I bought a 12mm x 32mm x 10mm bearing (6201) which fits the truck and the 12mm shaft. I only had to turn the end to 10mm and turn a slot for the clip. Also, it is important to buy imperial collets and not metric ones. The metric ones will work but they will have to expand or compress to fit and it's just not right. I have not seen any imperial China collets on ebay (and if you do beware) . I found imperial collets at Shars but they cost more and they have not arrived yet.

  6. #16

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    Hi Bergerud,

    can you walk us through removing the spindle?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,167

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    It was a long time ago that I removed the the original spindle to replace the bearings. I remember that the bearings fit very tight. The bottom bearing (6002V) comes out with the spindle. The top bearing (6000DU) stays in the truck and takes the beating. It will be ruined from punching the shaft through it. I blocked the truck below with a board and metal blocks and used a punch of slightly smaller diameter than the 10mm shaft. Machines may vary, I remember mine was tight. It did not tap out easily. Be careful not to flare the top of the shaft by crushing the clip ring slot. Both bearings, however, come out of the truck easily. They each have a corrugated vibration ring around them. Buy new bearing before you try it.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rolla, Missouri
    Posts
    3,418

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    There are cheap ones from China for around $25.
    'Cheap' being the operative word. Unless buying from a known supplier I would avoid imported tooling as its quality varies tremendously.

    No, I did not use ceramic bearings,
    Ceramic bearings are really needed due to the high speed. Steel balls will not hold up very long at 25,000RPM. No point in going to all the work to do the modification only to have to redo things in short order.

    I would also carefully consider what collets are used. Again there are really cheap imported collets that are not very accurate nor do they hold up well. Add a cheap collet to a cheap ER11 chuck and you can wind up with run-out as great as with the QC. Minimizing run-out is the key to long bit life and happy carving.
    Happy carving , Jeff Birt

    Check out www.soigeneris.com for CarveWright Accesories.

    Home of the 'Carving in the Dark' back lit LCD kit!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,167

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    I have been waiting for you to jump in, thanks. You are an expert on these ER chucks. I know these Chinese parts are cheap, if the experiment is successful, I plan to buy higher quality parts. A stainless spindle with the mini nut and maybe ceramic bearings. Chinese stuff is getting better though (not good for our economies) and I am not sure the more expensive parts are worth the difference. (I beg to differ that any spindle could run out like the QC!)

    I think you should make up an ER11 conversion kit with and without ceramic bearings for Soigeneris to sell. What do you think?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,167

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    No reply from Jeff. OK, I get it. My thread is being "moderated". Killed by a poo poo from Jeff. This is not the first time this has happened. There seems to be a subset of senior members who act like they are on the LHR payroll. I find this quite distasteful. I worked hard to try and explain what I did and why. Of course my spindle idea is contrary to LHR's proprietary bit system and the Carvetight chuck. So poo poo.

    I am a academic; I believe in free exchange of ideas and of better inventions. I hoped for an open discussion on the spindle subject. I hoped someone (maybe even LHR) would realize this type of spindle makes for a better machine. Maybe it should be the new "Rock" chuck. In any case, that's it for me, this is my last post. I do not think I will post in this forum again.

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