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Thread: Cut Motor

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ethel, Washington, United States, 112781828734724, Ethel, Washington
    Posts
    18

    Default Cut Motor

    I received my machine on Wed of last week, and it has worked well since I got it until last night. While cutting a pattern last night, the cut motor rpms started to fluctuate. Before I was able to get to the machine, the motor stopped but the machine kept going like nothing had happened. I stopped the operation, shut the machine off, and removed the flexshaft from the truck head. I removed the flexshaft core lubricated it, removed the rpm sensor and checked the magnet, replaced everything, started a new pattern, at load bit prompt, the motor won't turn, but it starts moving like it is.. Can anyone help me here...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    There is the right side cover switch that is the return power circuit for the cut motor. A loose switch can cause this...

    A Loose wire going to the Cut Motor can cause this

    A Broken off C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board under the machine can cause this.

    A Loose wire on the X Termination Board can cause this....

    A bad solder connection on the X Termination Board can cause this.

    A Bad L2 Coil on the Power Supply can cause this

    A Sticking Cut Motor Brush can cause this

    A Wire Chewed up by the moving parts inside the Cut Motor can cause this

    Short Cut Motor Brushes can cause this... Over 250 cut motor hours.... You don't mention how old the machine is...

    I would advise removing the cut motor and opening it up and inspecting it....

    AL
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Nuevo, CA
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    I guess this is why you would want to get the one year maintainance agreement. These machines are very reliable now, but I feel that if something is going to break because of a defect it would be right away, well soon anyway. If the lid switch is not faulty, the motor probably is. There are two lid switches I believe. One senses the lid open/closed, the other cuts the motor power when you open the lid. That is the reason for the heavy wire to the top in the motor corner. The smaller wiring harness in the other back corner is the open/closed sensor and the probe wires. First thing, try blowing out the lid switch - right side - with compressed air ( under 80psi )
    Clint

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ethel, Washington, United States, 112781828734724, Ethel, Washington
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Thanks for the replies , I'm heading out to the shop to check these now, I'll let o\you in a bit..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ethel, Washington, United States, 112781828734724, Ethel, Washington
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Ok, I checked both of the lid switches, they are fine, I removed the motor, and opened it up. I bought the machine brand new, it only has 25 hours on it. The motor has lots of wood dust inside, but other than that it looks fine. My next step will be to look at the power supply and other circuit board. I also have the extended warrenty with the machine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    117

    Default

    I just fixed a cut motor problem yesterday. My lid switch seemed to work ok out of the machine, but when I hooked a continuity tester to it and closed the lid, no circuit. My hinge has worn some and allowed enough slop so it did not make the switch. A little duct tape and I was good to go.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Q1 the Transistor on the X Termination Board is the on off switch for the cut motor.. If one of the legs has a bad solder joint this can happen..... But a guy sent me a picture of a burnt X Termination Board... Not shure what would cause this..... Moisture? A damp shop?

    OR..... Static Electricity.... from a dust collector....

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Burnt X Termination.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ethel, Washington, United States, 112781828734724, Ethel, Washington
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Ok, I put the motor back in, checked the C1 capacitor, looked fine, checked the power supply, also looked fine, put everything back together, tried the pattern again, I put the bit in, the motor did the initial turn over, and then started to carve. It ran for about 10 seconds and the the motor stopped again, the machine kept going like everything was fine. Back to square one help...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bangor, ME
    Posts
    614

    Default

    If you are adept with electricity, you can hook the cut motor up to 120 volt power and see it it maintains speed then. With the motor in place you could even feed power through the cover switch to the motor. This will at least determine which end of the system the problem is.

    Do this with caution, however! Don't do it if you're not sure what you're doing.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ethel, Washington, United States, 112781828734724, Ethel, Washington
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Thanks brdad, I think I'm going to wait until tomorrow and call CW, see if they want me to send it in for repair or if they can walk me through a few things. Thanks everyone for your help, I really appreciate it.

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