Cupping issues.

[lostinthefrost]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?

[Ike]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?

First is the material you buy kiln dried or rough cut? When buying your lumber invest in a moisture meter and choose the driest board. Once you get then home seal the end grains with end grain sealer or the easiest way buy some exterior glue not Gorilla unless it is their new wood glue and with a little water seal the ends. The regular gorilla glue will expand and crack the lumber.

If the lumber is wet stand it vertically and gravity draws the moisture and sounds like you sticker each layer between the boards. The main thing is to seal the end grains, now to reduce cupping put back straps on the boards.

To take the cupping out of a carved project sandwich it between two boards of the same size and using clamps each day apply slight pressure until flat. What is the thickness of the boards you are using? The thinner the board the easier it cups, so you might want to go with thicker boards.

The first thing I would do is get a moister meter Harbor Freight sells pretty good ones. Even if the board is kiln dried check the moisture anyway and choose the least wet board. But beware of too dry boards also they will crack.

Hope this helps?

Ike

[www.carvenow.com]

You can steam it before clamping it like Ike said.

[Ike]

You can steam it before clamping it like Ike said.

Hahn that is a great ideal!

Ike

[Dan-Woodman]

Joshua
If you are useing #2 pine , step up to select pine , the better grade is more stable. Available at the big box stores or look for a hardwood store in your area.
later Daniel

[rcdages]

Good Avice Ike on the cupping and how to handle it.

You get a 1,000.00 points for this one.

[lawrence]

also to point out-- if you plane one side of a board it will dry unevenly. Try to even out how much you take from each side.

Also of note, the big box lumber yards' lumber is usually VERY VERY wet. I get my pine from my local ACE and they have a very old (dry) stack that they let me pick through. It has been under a heavy load and stickered properly while it dried so it is VERY flat. Just remember the donuts for the Ace guy (or gal) and you should be fine

Lawrence

[lostinthefrost]

Excellent thanks all for replying. I go back and forth between select and choice or whatever. These are from a big box store, that's all we really have around here. I never noticed it for the last few years, but lately if I do a basic sign carve that is about .250 deep I am noticing within 24 hours a sanding I can see the box shaping up. I will change up somethings and stay with select if I can, but can get pricey and I also need to get one of those meters.
Thanks again all!!

[Dan-Woodman]

You could also try not carving quite so deep. The more material you remove from one side the more it will warp and cup.
later Daniel

[cestout]

Don't try to carve a wide piece as you get it from the store. Rip it in strips, flip alternate pieces over to reverse the curve of the grain, and glue it back together. If you look at the end grain where the tree rings show, the curved rings want to flatten out over time. If you break the rings up and alternate their direction you minimize cupping. Norm taught me that.
Clint