JLT,
Wow this is very cool work.. nice job!
JLT,
Wow this is very cool work.. nice job!
Steve, sorry about not getting back to you sooner... unfortunately the day job gets in the way. ; - )
Downloaded free version of BitDefender 2009, and ran the Deep Scan on my entire machine. Unfortunately, it wiped out (without quarantining, oy) all the EXE's that I had created. Nothing else was detected. The VB Script Control that I'm using in the Radial Vector Generator is a very flexible tool, so I can see where it would raise the eyebrows of a virus scanner. But, I've taken the precaution of setting the "UseSafeSubset" mode, which forces the VB scripts to execute in safe mode and disallow potentially harmful actions.
Basically, BitDefender appears to be erring on the side of caution, and anything suspect appears to be flagged. They permit the ability to submit false positives via their website, which I tried to do, but it only allows you to do so if you have licensed the product, which I'm not about to buy...
Thanks for checking it out. I have been hit too many times to take chances. Most of the time it is by new stuff that are not in the databases yet. I will try to download it again and send it to them so they can check it out and clear it in their database.
Thanks again!
Steve
Centerline
Pattern Editor
Conforming Vectors
DXF Importer
STL Importer
2D Advanced Tools
Designer 1.187, 2.007 and **NONE** on Mac OS 10.15.6 and Windows 10 via Parallels on Mac
In an effort to save others the learning curve I went through, the following are some basic tips I follow to cut out vector profiles using baltic birch:
* I predominately use the 1/16" cutting bit (not to be confused with the carving bit).
* Use double sided carpet tape to hold down the large wheels. For the pinions (small wheels), I don't cut all the way through the 1/4" birch plywood, but instead, cut down to and maybe a touch into the last ply. This last ply holds the pinion while being cut. I also am at the ready to hit the Stop button should the pinion appear to break loose while cutting. Then, after removing the board from the sled, I punch the pinion out, and remove (via chisel or sander) the last ply.
* Use a sled with a replaceable piece of 1/4" material (eg, underlayment or luan) under the birch plywood. As I cut the various vectors, this 1/4" underlayment will begin to be cut up too, and have less and less surface to hold the carpet tape. I then flip it, use the other side, and then eventually replace it altogether.
* Use a scraper and then damp cloth to remove the carpet tape residue from the 1/4" underlayment, and then let it dry. Otherwise the carpet tape won't hold onto the 1/4" underlayment as well.
* Cut one wheel or pinion at a time on the sled. Since the Designer software doesn't let you order the cuts, if you were to have all the wheels and pinions on a single project, the sequence is such that all the gear profiles will be cut first, followed by all the center arbor holes via the drill function. The problem is that after all the moving around performing the vector cuts, the likelihood of drift is higher, and subsequently the arbors are less precisely placed relative to the actual gear profile.
* Also note that the resulting vector and arbor from the Radial Vector Generator is sometimes not exactly centered on the 15" x 15" MPC file, but instead is sometimes off by .007" in both the X & Y direction. Have never figured out whether it was something caused by my program, ai2mpc, or designer. The arbor is still centered relative to the gear profile, but if you replace the drill hole with another arbor hole (eg, a square bossed arbor as I have done in the past), that .007", if not taken into account, will result in a slightly offset arbor hole, which is not good...
It's Designer... I surprised you can get centered as well as you do..
Also note that the resulting vector and arbor from the Radial Vector
Generator is sometimes not exactly centered on the 15" x 15" MPC file, but
instead is sometimes off by .007" in both the X & Y direction. Have never
figured out
Last edited by liquidguitars; 04-09-2011 at 07:11 PM.
JLT, this has been a great post. I've downloaded and tried the Vector Generator; very nice (and no problems with gremlins, either). Your recent post about carving one gear at a time is so logical, thnx for the idea. The issue you raised about carves being off-center (seconded by LG) does present a problem for tight tolerance fits. Is the problem predictable or random? Anybody have a solution?
Regards, Joe
Plea of Insanity for Addiction to ol' H-D Sporters
I took a different approach. I split the gear vectors into sections, essentially isolating two teeth for smaller gears and four teeth for larger ones. I cut these teeth to depth of .2" and the rest of the gear to .25", in effect creating tabs .05" thick. I cut four gears at once with no problem. I designed my gears to be cut with the standard 1/8" bit. I used the CraveWright to drill only a locating hole in the center of the gears. In Designer I placed a 1/16 hole .1" deep using the 1/16" cutting bit, but then I substituted the standard carving bit when I ran the project. This places a nice centering hole for my standard drill bits and drill press.
Here is what I have so far:
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...847#post151847
Last edited by DickB; 04-09-2011 at 09:08 PM.
It's only a problem if you choose to replace the generated arbor. For example, zoom in and take a close look at the arbor and the centering of the attached gear profile. You will notice that it's not centered on this MPC "palette", and thus you must take necessary precautions if you need to replace the arbor drill hole, with say, a square hole.
@ DickB, nice technique breaking apart the vector and inserting tabs manually! Never thought of that, and will definitely give the technique a try. Also, the CW does an excellent job on cutting out the arbor holes. I usually cut out a series of test holes, say for K&B brass 3/8" tubing, a range from 0.370" - 0.380" incremented by .001", then test fit the tubing. The fit is noticeably different, even with only a 1/1000" change between test holes! For K&B brass 3/8" tubing, for instance, I've arrived at using 0.372"...
My machine tends to make oblong holes, so I prefer to use the drill press. Interesting to note the difference between specified and actual hole size. I suppose there is some amount of runout that is making the holes a little larger than specified.
All this sounds very interesting... I recently spent a week cutting gears on my band saw and Scroll saw in an attempt at making a wood gear clock I have a plan for... Drilling holes exact center was a challenge.. The gears were pretty good but still there were subtle differences.. What I had to do was drill the center hole to size then place a dowel on a board mounted to my disc sander... Rotated the gear on the dowel against the sanding disc to ensure exact center.. Now I'm rambling... Long story short ended up having to cut several of the gears over... Very annoying !! I was trying to figure out a way to have the gears cut on the CW/CC from the blue print I have of all the gears escapements and the other parts to put it all together and make it work... Needless to say I lost interest in continuing the build.. Now this has perk up my interest again.... Hmmm !!!
Mans Quest for knowledge,,, means he'll always find a way !!