"Thicker" fonts, and how to route them effectively

[DurhamDev]

Hi all,

This is my first post here, and I've also noticed it's the first in this section. Here's my question. When using thicker fonts (such as "Impact"), where the body of the text is heavier than your standard serif font (i.e. "Times New Roman"), is there a way to tell centerline to route out the section inside the font when dealing with larger sizes? I created some sample text, made it 4" in height, and then chose the 1/16" ballnose bit, and the render shows that it will route the outline, but nothing inside the font itself. If I chose the 60 degree or 90 degree bit, it will leave a lot of raised stock inside the font body, which looks horrible. The only thing I could find that could make it 'better' is to use raster mode, however, the edges look really, really rough, which I believe is expected.

Is there a solution I'm overlooking? (I'm considering duplicating the text, layering one directly on top of the other, and putting the raster cut 'under' the centerline cut, to see if it will first cut the outline, and then raster the interior - but I don't know what to expect...)

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Rick // The DurhamDev

[Ike]

Rick I can answer this for you and say no! Without tricking the machine and choosing a 90 degree bit and using a 120 degree bit, you will have high ridges in the center. I own a sign shop and I mostly hand route my signs. I use stencils that are wide fonts and even by hand I get the ridges. Yet by hand I can get the ridges lower, if you have a 90 degree that is wide it will leave the ridges low. Oh one thing if the 90 is half the width of the font the ridge should be less. What you see in the designer is programed with using CW bits. I don't have a CW 90, and I have one that is 3/4" wide and the results will be different.

Now with a raster cut it will remove all of the center with edges straight and not at a V like the vector cut of the centerline. I would do a test with different width 90 degree bits to see how much center they remove.

Ike

[DurhamDev]

Rick I can answer this for you and say no! Without tricking the machine and choosing a 90 degree bit and using a 120 degree bit, you will have high ridges in the center. <snip> Now with a raster cut it will remove all of the center with edges straight and not at a V like the vector cut of the centerline. I would do a test with different width 90 degree bits to see how much center they remove.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the quick response. I think the best bet would be for fonts such as these to be formatted for raster cutting, so as to get the best 'bang for the buck', so to speak. My only real concern is the cleanliness of the edges, as the centerline seems to do a great job of creating smooth lines, but I'm pretty sure the edges of a font cut using the raster method could be sanded for a better look.

I'm going to try and review some of the 'tips and tricks' I've found using Google - but have had trouble finding on the forums - and see if I can find some good examples of how the experts create their signs here. This is my first machine, and while I'd love to get a larger 'true' CNC machine in the future, I love the versatility of the system so far! (I've had it a day, actually, and it's exceeding all of my expectations!

[Ike]

That's what I thought. Thanks for the quick response. I think the best bet would be for fonts such as these to be formatted for raster cutting, so as to get the best 'bang for the buck', so to speak. My only real concern is the cleanliness of the edges, as the centerline seems to do a great job of creating smooth lines, but I'm pretty sure the edges of a font cut using the raster method could be sanded for a better look.

I'm going to try and review some of the 'tips and tricks' I've found using Google - but have had trouble finding on the forums - and see if I can find some good examples of how the experts create their signs here. This is my first machine, and while I'd love to get a larger 'true' CNC machine in the future, I love the versatility of the system so far! (I've had it a day, actually, and it's exceeding all of my expectations!

Rick another trick I do to take the feather or fuzzies is with a torch I quickly pass over and burn them off. You know once the letter is painted you never notice the ridge. Like I mentioned I use bits that are not CW and have never had a problem. Matter of fact I get my bits from www.eagleamerica.com and the wider the bit the lower the ridge.


Oh forgive my manors WELCOME TO THE FORUM! The tips and tricks are great info, along with the manual! Read up and you will be a step ahead of the game! Plus if you ever need any help you can call me! Just PM me and I will give you my number!

Ike

[fwharris]

For the tips and tricks news letters go the the main CW site or just click on the link in my signature...

[Capt Bruce]

Welcome to the Forum Rick,

Having faced the same trade offs I elected to carve the larger letters with raster for flat bottom areas, then cleaning up the outlines by hand with diamond dust coated riffler files followed by sanding with a 4" dia. soft mop that gets down in there. It takes a bit longer but I think at that scale you'll find the results very acceptable. We're glad to have you with us.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have a V90 bit with a flat bottom. Never tried it... I like Ike's idea of the 120 degree... Need to get one...

I make larger letters using the Outline Mode and a Single stroke font like "Modern Font". I assign the 3/8 inch bottom cutting bit like the one used for calibration. I set the depth to .1 or .15 and it works great. For bigger letters you use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch bit. This gives a flat bottom text.

In the case of the 17, I just outlined the whole number and painted the outline and inside.

AL

[Ike]

You know the wider the bit the less the ridges, through Eagle America there are 1 1/2" wide 90 degree bits with 1/2" shanks http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...lettering_bits Price Cutter prices are lower http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...lettering_bits Plus you can get the 120 degree, it will be a shallower cut.

Again I only know from my sign making experience and I hand rout wide lettering all the time and I use wider bits. I am going to start making my own bits again. I modify a 7/8" V groove stainless steel bit. I will share photos of the start to finish when I make the bits. Well if anybody is interested! I will probably not try them in my CW. I am going back to old school with my sign business, I am going to do a make over on my portable shop. I will share photos of that too if interested?

The bit Al is talking about is called Chamfer Lettering bit here a 60 degree http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...groove_forming. I have made several large signs with large stencils 2" or wider letters and I used one of my modified bits and the ridges were hardly noticeable. Once painted it isn't noticeable at all. Now with the 120 bit it should do the trick and with the 4" or so letters it should carve in one pass.

Ike

[DurhamDev]

Rick another trick I do to take the feather or fuzzies is with a torch I quickly pass over and burn them off. You know once the letter is painted you never notice the ridge. Like I mentioned I use bits that are not CW and have never had a problem. Matter of fact I get my bits from www.eagleamerica.com and the wider the bit the lower the ridge.

I actually read the info you had posted in the 'tips n tricks' immediately after my post, and was excited to see a celebrity was my first response on these here forums.

Oh forgive my manors WELCOME TO THE FORUM! The tips and tricks are great info, along with the manual! Read up and you will be a step ahead of the game! Plus if you ever need any help you can call me! Just PM me and I will give you my number!

Welcome to the Forum Rick, <snip> We're glad to have you with us.

Thanks guys. It's great to see such a response, and amazing information. Many, many thanks.

You know the wider the bit the less the ridges, through Eagle America there are 1 1/2" wide 90 degree bits with 1/2" shanks http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...lettering_bits Price Cutter prices are lower http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...lettering_bits Plus you can get the 120 degree, it will be a shallower cut. <snip> The bit Al is talking about is called Chamfer Lettering bit here a 60 degree http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...groove_forming. I have made several large signs with large stencils 2" or wider letters and I used one of my modified bits and the ridges were hardly noticeable. Once painted it isn't noticeable at all. Now with the 120 bit it should do the trick and with the 4" or so letters it should carve in one pass.

Now, that's what I think I would like to try, right there. The 120 degree bit sounds like a winner (possibly even a necessity) for larger lettering.

Thanks!

[Ike]

Rick now stop that!!! A celebrity? Lol not hardly, but thanks for make me feel good! I have been making signs for over 30 years and I have learn a thing or two! Not bragging, just make sense that many years I would at least learn 2 things!

Still if you ever have any questions I am more then happy to answer either on the forum or calling me! Just PM and I will give you my number. I live in California so I am Pacific time!

Thanks again for the compliment!

Ike