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Thread: Pistol Grips?

  1. #21
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    Default 2 sided grips

    Quote Originally Posted by Burl Source View Post
    Now there are a couple more things I need to figure out. I will be reading through the software manual and tips to see if I can find a solution. If anyone would like to give advice or any directions please make a post. I really appreciate the help.

    #1 How to make countersunk holes for the screws. Looking at the takeoff grips I have it looks like the largest hole matches the carved pattern. Measuring from the outer surface about 1/16" down the hole needs to be smaller by just over 1/16". I am assuming this is to hold the head of the mounting screws.



    #2 The backsides of the grips will need to be grooved for the safety and ? The grip to the left looks to be about 1/8" deep and the one on right about 1/16". I need to figure out how to carve these out of the backside and how to do a cut path to cut each grip out of the board. In summary; how to set up the project to do the carving on the backs and then be able to flip the board to carve the fronts and then cut out the grips utilizing tabs. I hope I am making sense here.



    Once again, any help, advice or encouragement is greatly appreciated. I'm not dumb, .... but maybe a slow learner. I just started experimenting with the machine a couple days ago. You guys are helping to speed up the learning process immensely. Thank You.
    Since you have the pattern for the front, (I'll bet you can use your scan) I would try this:
    A) Place small drill holes on the front (Temporary reference) where the screws go.
    B) Outline your pattern and apply your Cut-Path (The cut-path applies tabs, you just do not see them in designer).
    With the above in place,
    C) open the back design.
    D) Apply the proper drill holes.
    E) Apply/design your pockets/grooves Avoid Raster carves, if you can. It may depend upon the bits you have on hand.
    F) If your holes are "Countersunk", on the back, you will need to determine if you need a "V" bit, Bull Nose, or Flat bit, to attain the proper contour. Depending on your choice, you may be applying a Drill or Vector function.
    G) Last, go back to the Front and remove your temporary drill holes.

    Just translate what you would do, if you were carving them by hand.
    AskBud
    Last edited by AskBud; 12-24-2010 at 04:11 PM.
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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    Default

    Thank You AskBud.
    I will do it just as you said. Thank You for the step by step directions. Sounds easy enough.
    Thanks again, Mark

    The cut out and back pockets were simple to do with your instructions. Thanks
    Last edited by Burl Source; 12-24-2010 at 05:24 PM.

  3. #23

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    Also normally on the back of my grips all I do is file a slot for the plunger tube on the left grip.

    If you want to make things real easy edit the pattern to show only pilot holes and get you one of these step bits. It drills the center screw hole and countersinks the the lager opening all in one shot. Especially designed for drilling the screw holes on handguns grips.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    If you want to be dead nuts on ever time you need this template and you can almost do it blind folded. I use this also to outline the slabs for cutting them out with the band saw when I do them by hand. Makes a perfect grip every time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sometimes it easier to use hand tools instead the machine.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCW View Post
    Mark,

    Sounds like Bud has you on the right track. Below find MPW files that will allow you to edit the patterns with pattern editor.
    Thank You for sending the MPW files.
    The jigs and countersink bits look like really good tools to have. Is there somewhere they can be purchased online?

    Where I work I get requests to make 1911 grips pretty regular so I need to get good at making them. I really appreciate all the help from you guys.
    Thanks again, Mark

  5. #25

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    Check you PM I sent you some information.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCW View Post
    Check you PM I sent you some information.
    I read the PMs. Thank You for the new files and the info for the jigs.

    I just carved with the new files you made for me Dan.
    Thank You. It worked out great.

    The photo shows what I just carved. The wood is eucalyptus with a little sapwood area. The different colors make the photo look funny but the grips carved just right.

    Last edited by Burl Source; 12-26-2010 at 03:15 PM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    When I carved this time I used a single piece that was 2 x 10 inches instead of 2, 5 inch pieces. I placed this in the sled for carving. Some of the wood I will be using for grips can be pretty expensive so I wanted to have as little waste as possible. Here is what was left over.



    The piece I used was slightly thicker than the depth of the carving. When I was done carving I took out the 10 inch piece and ran it through my drum sander. Just a few passes sanding the backside and both grips dropped out of the 10 inch piece. In the future I will be doing a couple modifications to the backside and will do the grips with cutouts instead of sanding through the backside. That is when I will be utilizing info provided by AskBud.

    Here are the 2 grips. Not an exact match with the grain and colors, but pretty close. Next time I will pay closer attention when orienting the grain on the piece I cut to fit into the carving sled.



    Now I need to take some time with the files Dan provided and work on some modifications I want to experiment with.
    Last edited by Burl Source; 12-26-2010 at 04:11 PM.

  8. #28

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    Mark,

    Looking good.... Something I do as well and you could do with the CW. To make a set bookmarked I have used 3/4 inch stock (5" X 2" X.750) ripped them to say around.300. Also when you do a cutout you may want to do a .080 inset and choose flip cut. This will give you a little room for sanding the edges. This setting is on the cut-out pop up screen. Keep up the nice work and can't wait to see some of that burl carved.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    After I have everything perfected I will be breaking into my stash. I set aside a few sets of Ironwood Burl scales as well as a mix of different types of burl that I had stabilized by K&G. As I am able to do things correctly I will post photos.

    Thanks again for all the good help.
    Mark
    Last edited by Burl Source; 12-26-2010 at 08:43 PM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cave Junction, Oregon
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    I have been practicing and think I almost have things down pat.
    Here are 2 sets, walnut burl and sycamore.





    Now if I could just learn to take better photos.

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