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Thread: cut motor (as usual)

  1. #1

    Default cut motor (as usual)

    after i go through all the steps, pressing all the required buttons, the machine measures the board, etc. it tells me to change bits which i do and hit enter, the thing swings back and measures the depth, senses the top of the board and then says "pattern cutting". trouble is the motor won't come on and i get a CUT MOTOR code. this machine has worked well in the past but i've been in Iraq for several months and now suddenly i can't get it to do anything. anyone out there have an fixes for this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Indiana, PA
    Posts
    2,560

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    I would check the right side cover switch and the leads from it back to the motor. Everytime I have had that issue, the connections from the switch back tot he motor had wiggled loose.
    Doug Fletcher

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sacramento Ca
    Posts
    3,181

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightc View Post
    after i go through all the steps, pressing all the required buttons, the machine measures the board, etc. it tells me to change bits which i do and hit enter, the thing swings back and measures the depth, senses the top of the board and then says "pattern cutting". trouble is the motor won't come on and i get a CUT MOTOR code. this machine has worked well in the past but i've been in Iraq for several months and now suddenly i can't get it to do anything. anyone out there have an fixes for this?

    Or the wires may have broke at the connections, have you tried removing the cover lately? Oh by the way thank you for serving in Iraq I appreciate it as does my family! I would also try removing the brushes and flipping or replacing them. How many hours do you have the cut motor, maybe sitting for so long the brushes have set?

    Again thank you for you bravery!

    Ike

  4. #4

    Default Ike and Dbfletcher

    thanks for trying to help me. i'm very new to this. i took off the cover, disconnected the AC motor sensor connector and spun the flex cable while looking down at the magnet. everything looks clean and proper. i went into options and read the following: Cut motor on time 10 hrs 23 min..........Total power on time 74 hrs 49 min. no wires seem to be cut or burnt. i'm not sure about electric motors, when you say flip the brushes, are they located on top of the motor under that quarter sized cover with a flat head screw driver slot on it? i unscrewed it and it had a spring and what looked like a piece of formed iron which has a curve on the end, presumably it rides on the shaft? it looks good as gold to me. i'd really hate to have to take the motor out and send it in for repair. i bought this CW reconditioned and i doubt anyone would be willling to work on it. anyway, anything else ya'll can think of, please let me know. i have to go back to Iraq in january for several months and i would like to get back to working with this machine. and by the way, i'm not brave. rocketed and mortared a hundred times and it scared me each and every time.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sacramento Ca
    Posts
    3,181

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightc View Post
    thanks for trying to help me. i'm very new to this. i took off the cover, disconnected the AC motor sensor connector and spun the flex cable while looking down at the magnet. everything looks clean and proper. i went into options and read the following: Cut motor on time 10 hrs 23 min..........Total power on time 74 hrs 49 min. no wires seem to be cut or burnt. i'm not sure about electric motors, when you say flip the brushes, are they located on top of the motor under that quarter sized cover with a flat head screw driver slot on it? i unscrewed it and it had a spring and what looked like a piece of formed iron which has a curve on the end, presumably it rides on the shaft? it looks good as gold to me. i'd really hate to have to take the motor out and send it in for repair. i bought this CW reconditioned and i doubt anyone would be willling to work on it. anyway, anything else ya'll can think of, please let me know. i have to go back to Iraq in january for several months and i would like to get back to working with this machine. and by the way, i'm not brave. rocketed and mortared a hundred times and it scared me each and every time.
    One thing to check is the bullet connectors that connect the motor to power switch I had one break and had to replace them. Does the motor come on at all? If it does check the flex shaft to make sure it is properly seated. Like Doug posted the switch on the right is connected to the motor.

    Now to being scared you would be crazy not to be! You are brave and being scared has nothing to do with it, just being there proves that! Again thank you so much!

    I suggest getting in touch with Al Digitalwoodshop he will be your best bet on figuring it out.

    Ike

  6. #6

    Default

    thanks Ike, i'll get with digitalwoodshop. no, the motor won't come on at all. maybe Al will steer me in the right direction. thanks again. Charlie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    lightc,

    Thank You for your Service to our country.

    A bunch of good things to check have been posted above. Here is a review.


    The Right side Cover Switch is the return side of the power of the cut motor and acts as a safety switch. Loose screws on the switch or the cover will sometimes not let the switch engage.

    So the power comes in on the black wire from the X termination board under the machine and goes to the black wire of the cut motor. The white return wire from the X Termination Board goes to either the black or white wire of the right side safety switch. It is just in and out so either wire will work. The other wire from the switch goes to the white wire from the cut motor. It is possible for the push in connectors to not be seated all the way.

    Next we go under the machine and find the X Termination Board. The Q1 Transistor is the electronic switch for the Cut Motor controlled by the computer. It has been found that one leg of the transistor is not soldered correctly but more than likely the lolly pop looking Capacitor has one leg broken off.... See Photo. I had 3 of my machines break this Cap due to QC Vibration. The Cap is a Mylar .1MF 300 Volt. A more common replacement is a MLR104K400
    That is the .1MF 400 volt. You can increase the working max voltage leaving the Micro Farad Value the same, .1 Micro Farad. The leads might be thicker in the 400 volt version.

    Since it is a refurbished unit, popping open the brush cap and checking the brush length would be helpful. I would expect the brushes to be almost full length.

    It really is easy to open and inspect the cut motor.... Remove the flex shaft, remove the magnet speed sensor, unplug the power wires, remove the screws holding the motor to the frame of the machine.

    Then open the motor by removing all the screws and don't forget the one inside the muffler hole. Open and inspect for broken wires. When putting it back together rotate the armature to be sure the wires are not hit by moving parts.

    That is a lot of stuff.... But something is wrong and hopefully you will find it with the steps above.

    You can always call me too... number on my website.

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01461_WEB.jpg   DSC01471_WEB.jpg   DSC07793_WEB.jpg   DSC07811_WEB.jpg  

    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  8. Default

    Mine was failing to initiate the cut motor right after asking for the first bit. Error code 93, I think. Upgraded to current software on the card and problem went away. Well, I have other problems, but that is another thread.

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