Machine just stopped

[Digitalwoodshop]

Could be a bad Power Supply L2 Coil.... Does the display stay on?

Make sure the motor is wired correct..

Black in from the X Termination Board to Black of the Motor.

White from the X Term Board to either black or white of the cover switch.

Other cover switch wire to the white on the motor.


I have seen bad motors... I have one that I bought for the core charge from a guy.... The Windings are OPEN... I bought it for the plastic shell case. I have a cracked one.

AL

[thelittleboxshop]

Al is right of course, it could be a bad L2. You can check the power supply by setting the machine on its side (muffler side) and take the bottom panel off. The power supply will be at the bottom left. The source you want to check will be in the lower left hand corner of the supply. There will be four wires. A yellow and black wire and a red and black wire. To check the volts on the power supply with a meter turn it ON to 200V DC, turn machine ON check the yellow and black connector for 24V then check the red & black for 5V. Red lead on the volt meter to the yellow connector and black lead on the volt meter to the black connector next to it (this should read 24V or so). Do the same for the red and black connectors (this reading should be 5v or close). If these readings spec out you can probably rule out the power supply. It could still be the L2 coil as AL had mentioned and setting the machine on its side (muffler side) may stabilize a loose connection so if you can, check the same connections while the machine is setting normally and pull it off the table just enough to meter the power supply. As Al has said many times, setting the machine on its side can stabilize the L2 coil just enough to get a good reading so taking the reading from underneath would allow the L2 connector to become unstable again if it is loose.

Lastly, I don't know how new your machine is but if it has the old termination board you may want to consider the A907 upgrade (upgraded termination board, ribbons and Z Motor......be careful with the FFC cable). $85 plus $12 shipping.

[eromran]

If it doesnt count up does that mean the motor. Same thing is happening to mine it wont reve up after you change bits but im showing nothing on the counter.

[eromran]

also can you still check the power supply as you descibed if the c1 compasiter is broke off?

[eromran]

The answer to " can you still check the power supply as you descibed if the c1 compasiter is broke off" is yes you can

[dataman001]

My display does work.
Voltage checks of red/black and yellow/black connectors are good both horizontal and vertical.
The last thing I did was insstall the A907 upgrade and the machine did do a couple of jobs before just stoping.
The motor does count up as I turn the router head.

It does everything but run the motor. Will start and do all the measurements, check board length etc and indicate to mount the bit and even will start routing the design by draging the bit across the board as if it was turning.

My machine is an old one (I think) - purchased it used and suposibly rebuilt.

Where is the L2 coil and how do I check it?

[Termite]

I had one of the wires from the brushes come apart. Re-soldered it and it has been running fine. If you have't taken the cut motor apart you might want to check it. Mine is an A model bought in Feb. 2007 with everything original except one board sensor, one X - drive gear which was my fault and I put the Rock chuck on. I guess I should'nt have said that. Probaly jinked myself.

Daniel

[Digitalwoodshop]

The L2 Coil must be good on the power supply if your display works. Think of the L2 Coil as a Power Supply Fuse and if it has a broken wire, it looks like a open fuse.... L2 is a coil not a fuse but the coil is just before where a fuse would be in a power supply in the output circuit.

The C1 Capacitor is the lolly pop looking thing on the underside of the machine on the X Termination Board. It is part of the Cut Motor ON OFF Switch. A Broken C1 will prevent the Cut Motor from starting.

I suggest removing the cut motor and opening it too.... It could be a broken wire....

If you look at the plugs for the cut motor, you could find some small gator clips to use a multimeter to see if the power is getting to the cut motor. You could even use a 115 volt AC light bulb to test if power is getting to the motor by cutting the plug off a common table lamp and shoving the wires into the connector.

Opening the cut motor might show you a broken wire...

Plus cleaning the dust out is a good thing too....

I replaced my sand paper belts this weekend and I could not believe the 4 table spoons of sawdust inside my gear box.... Not good.... So you will find sawdust in the cut motor.

If you ever remove the brush wires from the inside of the motor and hook them up wrong the motor will run in reverse.... Saw one posting here about that.... Bits burned rather than cut......

Good Luck,

AL

[eromran]

Thanks Al for all your post on this subject. I checked the power supply using the method Rollie said (post 17) THANKS, it checked good. Checked C1 capacitor as Al has said in a ton of post encluding above. It was broke so a quick trip to the TV repair shop and and they put a new capacitor in as i waited.Its a 600v insted of the 400v that was in it. The legs are a lot bigger and not near as likely to break, only $8.00 to fix. Still motor did not work so as Al and Termite both suggested i opened up motor THANKS and sure enough there was a wire that had come off where it connects to the brushes just tightend that up and put most every thing back together. Then i thought before i tighten lid down i would check motor using the motor sensor check i did and nothing. So i took the motor back apart and found the magnet was off but still stuck to shaft so my motor sensor wasnt working any ways.Put everything back and its running great. Needless to say i was fired up for the cheap and easy fixes and without the know how of this forum it would not be possible.

[Digitalwoodshop]

GREAT JOB !!!!!!! On all counts.... And yes, A 600 Volt is OK to replace a 400 volt... I even have the 600 volt version.... Good Job.

As for the Cut Motor... GREAT JOB on that too.... LHR sells a black retainer that slides over the Cut Motor shaft to hold the magnet in place. With it missing then the Cut Motor error results in the cut motor running at full blast after the fault. It is a easy fix... I tried Yellow Heat Shrink but it stretched and the magnet again flew off.... The Retainer fixed it.

Back in August 2007 the CCM or Check Cut Motor was the most popular post... My digging into the Cut Motor answered the question "Why" posting the pictures of the missing magnet on 8/14..... LHR already had a fix as I had it shortly after that on 8/26 I had the new retainer. Dates on Pictures are GREAT....

AL