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Thread: Glue/Sawdust Patch Ratio?

  1. #1
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    Jun 2009
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    Default Glue/Sawdust Patch Ratio?

    Hi All,

    I am going to try to patch the small line across the top of the M that Centerline cut so I can save the project.

    This is a pice of pinkish curly cherry so I can't find any off the shelf patch solution, so I was going to try mixing some glue with some sawdust from the board.

    I have never tried this, so I was looking for someone that has done this to answer a few questions. How fine should the sawdust be? How much sawdust to glue should I use? Should it be closer in consistancy to glue or putty? I have the 3.5 inch end cutoffs I can use to make the sawdust so it matches in color.

    Thanks in advance,
    Craig
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 4.jpg  

  2. #2

    Default

    how are you going to finish this? Sometimes sawdust and CA glue matches better. If you are using an oil finish (or one coat of oil first), wood glue works well, otherwise it is a bit lighter than the surrounding wood. Use the least amount of glue possible to keep the color close to the rest of the piece.

    I would definitely suggest testing it on a piece of scrap from that board first. If it looks a little off before finishing, it may be corrected after the finish is applied.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by hogiewan View Post
    how are you going to finish this? Sometimes sawdust and CA glue matches better. If you are using an oil finish (or one coat of oil first), wood glue works well, otherwise it is a bit lighter than the surrounding wood. Use the least amount of glue possible to keep the color close to the rest of the piece.

    I would definitely suggest testing it on a piece of scrap from that board first. If it looks a little off before finishing, it may be corrected after the finish is applied.
    I plan on painting in the centerline lettering, but the wood around that area including the patch will be a clear coat like shellac. So it's pretty important I get as close as I can to the color.

    Thanks,
    Craig

  4. #4
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    Default

    If you're just using shellac then it shouldn't be too hard. The defect doesn't look very deep so there shouldn't be a need for a lot of buildup. I think I would not mix a paste but instead put a thin layer of glue in the groove using a toothpick. Then I would press sawdust in and let dry and sand. If there is still a grove then repeat.

    If you vacumed the machine you may be able to get your sawdust by sifting some of that, otherwise you can usually obtain some from the dust filter of a sander.

    Being you are painting the letters I really don't think the unpainted repair will be noticable.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    robertsdale alabama
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    Default i would think you could

    use food coloring to get the wood glue to the right color but it would take a lot of trial and error.
    my patterns are at www.upillar.com do a search for "ptn"

    email for patterns: patternmaster@live.com

  6. #6
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    Default

    What I have done is to put some wood glue in the defect then work the sawdust into it. Pack it down hard and leave it proud while it dries. Sand it flush when dry.
    Clint

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by c6craig View Post
    Hi All,

    I am going to try to patch the small line across the top of the M that Centerline cut so I can save the project.

    This is a pice of pinkish curly cherry so I can't find any off the shelf patch solution, so I was going to try mixing some glue with some sawdust from the board.

    I have never tried this, so I was looking for someone that has done this to answer a few questions. How fine should the sawdust be? How much sawdust to glue should I use? Should it be closer in consistancy to glue or putty? I have the 3.5 inch end cutoffs I can use to make the sawdust so it matches in color.

    Thanks in advance,
    Craig
    I know this isn't an enjoyable thought, but there is one of two ways to get rid of the opps.

    1) You could plane it down and carve it again.
    2) Try raising the grain and sanding. Wet the dent and with a wet cloth and with a hot clothes iron draw the moisture up and sand repeat as needed.

    If you go with glue and sawdust I mix it to be like pancake mix. Using a little more glue white or yellow and fine sawdust. So take your sander with a dust bag empty it first/ blow out and sand the scrap piece.

    If you fill it it will stand out.

    Ike

  8. #8
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    Feb 2009
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    Chicago area
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    Default

    Maybe too late but for small repairs mix your sawdust, or even better, cut a sliver of wood to match. Careful work with a sharp XActo knife. Fit the sawdust or sliver using shellac. Experiment on some scrap. Shellac sticks are also available that can be melted into your defect. Use the same color shellac as your final finish color.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2009
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    Whidbey Island, WA
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    Default

    Ditto what the others have said... I've filled more than my fair share of "oopsies" over the years.

    Make sure you do not use wood glue (brown or yellow) I've had MUCH better luck with plain white "school" (elmers) glue and sawdust or creating a plug as will george suggested. Nothing will take a finish quite the same as a piece of wood from the same board will-- though with a clear finish you are probably going to be OK.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes

    Lawrence

  10. #10
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    Location
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    Default

    Thanks everyone,

    I plan to work on this over the weekend. I will take a cutoff from the board and make some small lines and test a few of the solutions you guys have suggested here. I'm sure I can get something to work close enough that it won't be blaringly obvious. A good close patch and few layers of shellac should cover it up I think.

    Craig

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