New User

[laxraxman]

Greetings! I have just purchased a used CW, and added the Centerline Text software. I make lacrosse stick holders, and want to be able to put some text on them, like an individual's name, or school name. I am in no way mechanically inclined and am somewhat trepidacious about trying this. Can any of you more experienced users offer any advice, please? I'm going to try using the CW tomorrow for the 1st time. Thanks.

[Old Salt]

Welcome carve some simple lettering first in wood the size you are working with to get use to how it works before you try the real thing . Read the tips and tricks on carvewright web site . good start for you.

[badger]

Just ask askbud... ...


http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...rline+tutorial

[will george]

No artist here but I use Centerling text often. My best suggestion would be to experiment on some inexpensive woods that have a grain/hardness similar to your expensive woods. If you have scraps of your good woods you could always make some sort of adjustable carrier board. (What I do).

I have no samples to send because I never keep my old files. I often, when I have nothing better to do, select a Font I like and then I will make a 'something.MPC' file of sample text and carve the text with the 90 and 60 degree and the standard carving bit (set for outline). I do the same text or even one letter and place it on the scrap wood so I can get the most use out of the so called 'scrap' wood I use for testing. I do some upper and lower case (maybe not on the same MPC) because there can be a BIG difference on the result. Especially at small font points. Some fonts/point sizes work well with a particular bit while others fail miserably. Some that fail only need different letter spacing or maybe just a bit larger/smaller point size.

It takes time, but can also be fun, if you are in a good mood at the time and like changing bits..... Like anything in life, things that you want to do never work out. Especially with that one typeface you really want to use. Have fun!

Note: Some things that look nice on one species of wood will not work on another species due to the detail one will or will not hold. Even the same species of wood will look different depending on the grain structure. Wood is wood, and every board is different. That goes for general carving also.

[laxraxman]

Gentlemen: thank you very much for your input! And a special thanks to AskBud, for taking the time to speak with me on the phone. This morning I spent some "trial and error" machine time, which better prepared me to make sense of what you all have shared with me. From that experience I can see that, for me, there is going to be a long learning-curve Speaking objectively, I would have to say that my work looked pretty good, for a 6 year-old. Hopefully, by the end of the week, I'll have it up to the level of a 10-12 year-old I'll keep you posted.

[TIMCOSBY]

open designer and click on help then read the entire thing it will tell you what each tool does and you will be ahead of the game. welcome to the forum.

[alan.galbraith]

laxraxman,

If one thing I have learned, (finally). Check your machine to see if it is 16 pin. If it is, as AL says so many times, replace with new Z bundle 14 pin system. I am finally replaceing mine.

[mtylerfl]

laxraxman,

If one thing I have learned, (finally). Check your machine to see if it is 16 pin. If it is, as AL says so many times, replace with new Z bundle 14 pin system. I am finally replaceing mine.

Of course that is very good advice to upgrade and I certainly would recommend that as well.

However, I mentioned it before that one of my machines still has the old z and the old 18-pin, and I do not have a lick of trouble with it. Funny, I did have to apply tape to the back cover of the z-pak because it would fall off from time to time! The new z-pak is a much better configuration, the cover stays on and is sealed better.

I'll have to say 'goodbye' to my old z very soon, as I plan to upgrade that machine to the new chuck/spindle, and may upgrade the belts too ( I still have the original traction belts on that machine - never a tear or roll-up!)

[laxraxman]

Alan: How/where/what do I check?

[mtylerfl]

Alan: How/where/what do I check?

Take a look at the following link - AL (Digitalwoodshop) has some photos of old and new z.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showpos...1&postcount=17

By the way, I was talking to a Tech yesterday and our conversation drifted to the 'old and new' z-paks and how I have not had any trouble with the old one. The Tech mentioned that the new one is indeed superior, partially because of the 14-pin cable that replaced the old 18-pin (it was 18-pin, NOT 16-pin, he said) which sometimes rubbed against the cooling fins, shorting it out. As long as the cable didn't short out (from abrasion), it works fine. He said the vast majority of users did not experience any problem with the old one and he advised me personally, "if it ain't broke, don't 'fix' it". So, even though I will be upgrading to the new spindle/chuck on that machine, I can still use my old z-pak if I want.