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Thread: check cut motor

  1. #11
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    Jan 2007
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    NE PA USA
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    Yes, the old magnet had a nasty habit of popping off.... If you go to Sensor Data and call up the cut motor then turn the chuck the magnet will count 0000 0001 0002 0003... IF working.... If not.... 0000 forever....

    The new retainer solved that problem in 2007....

    Even with my working magnet I get the check cut motor or CCM in the beginning of almost every project.... I use the break in the action to start the dust collector... IF you reboot the machine you get it... IF you did the same project a 2nd time with new wood and did NOT turn off the Power and reboot you will NOT get the CCM...

    Lots posted on this including a few comments from #1 at LHR.

    AL
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    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 10-29-2015 at 07:49 PM.
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southeast Idaho
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    641

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    I have one of the new cut motors, bought in Sept I think. Much quieter (well, lower pitch whine), but still have the CCM error.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    We have discussed this on the beta forum. The users (some beta testers) think the test is too sensitive whereas the LHR end thinks it indicates something is wrong. If a new motor gives the error, it must be something like low line voltage.

    It should be noted that the motor test is done for each project even though the error message will only be displayed once. Whenever the speed test fails, (reported or not) the variable speed control is disabled for that project. My point here is that there is a consequence to failing the speed test and after pressing continue a few times, one should consider that something may not be quite right.

    I have just replaced my extension cord with a short, beefy one. I am hoping that fixes my system.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    39

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    While reading through this thread, while looking for a reason why they have the cut motor designed to suck air from in front of the rear roller, then blow some of it back into the machine...

    I noticed that some one mentioned about oiling the motor... don't do it. The bearings are sealed... in order to oil them, you need to take the seals off. And if you are going to to that, you might as well clean them while you are at it. Just be careful not to lose the ball bearings when you take them apart or rip the seals. If you look for "cleaning skateboard bearings" on you tube, it will show you how to clean them.

    However unless you have a real super dirty (dirt not wood dust) shop, I would just leave them alone.

    If you want to test the bearings...

    test by popping off one side of the motor cover leaving armature and field in other half of case, hold the brush down with a piece of plastic or take the brush out first, then turn slowly by hand, if motor armature moves smooth without feeling like it is catching on something... leave them alone. If it feels like it has dirt in there then try and clean the bearings, but more than likely, once they start to feel bad, they are beyond cleaning. Also check for end play by wiggling the armature and see if there is play in the bearings, those bearings aren't designed for side thrust, but you can get an idea if they are getting worn out, if the bearing centers move side to side more than a hair.

    You can also check by pulling the armature totally out, but I like to check mine sitting where it will be running from, so you can see if there are any other issues.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    I cannot recall anyone having the bearings go in the cut motor.

    I can report that after switching my 15 ft extension cord to a 12 gauge (rated 15 amp), I seem to have eliminated the check cut motor warning.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Redmond, Or
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    360

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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    I cannot recall anyone having the bearings go in the cut motor.

    I can report that after switching my 15 ft extension cord to a 12 gauge (rated 15 amp), I seem to have eliminated the check cut motor warning.

    Dan, I have both of my machines on dedicated 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring and they both give me the check cut motor error when doing vector and/or text.
    It usually happens within the first couple of minutes, I just hit enter and continue.

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  7. #17
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    Aug 2008
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    north ont Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemi View Post
    Dan, I have both of my machines on dedicated 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring and they both give me the check cut motor error when doing vector and/or text.
    It usually happens within the first couple of minutes, I just hit enter and continue.

    Mike
    I have the same here why don't know
    Henry

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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    North Carolina
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    I have had a bearing go. On the side that connects to the flex. Go might be a harsh word. It still spun cleanly. Just tight.
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  9. #19
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    If anyone could wear out a cut motor bearing, it would be you! How many hours on that motor?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bangor, ME
    Posts
    614

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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    We have discussed this on the beta forum. The users (some beta testers) think the test is too sensitive whereas the LHR end thinks it indicates something is wrong. If a new motor gives the error, it must be something like low line voltage.
    I just installed a new cut motor (the case on the old one cracked) and have only done four test projects with it, but at least three times I have gotten the CCM error. It's been the norm to have the error on over 50% of the projects. It doesn't seem to a be a issue, just a nuisance.

    I live in the city, my electrical panel is less than 150 feet from the transformer on the street, and my CW is plugged into a standard (non-GFI) 20A outlet at the panel. My line voltage at the panel typically reads 119-121 volts. I can't imagine low line voltage is a factor, unless it was machine-based. Meaning, the CW power cord/power switch/other line power wiring itself is undersized and can't supply the current on motor start-up, dropping voltage. The power cord is only 18 Ga after all. But it seems if that was the case, most everyone would be having issues. I have had issues with my power switch connections and likely will solder those at some point.

    I'm not generally paying attention when the error occurs, but a few times it seemed like it occured as the bit was about to hit the board or just as it touched the board and was already up to a 'decent' RPM. It seemed to me the sensor circuit was expecting either a load on the motor or a reduction in RPM it wasn't seeing, but not knowing what factor(s) actually trigger the error I really could not be sure.

    It seems to me LHR could test the low voltage theory just by running the CW off a variac.

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