Very Nice work Capt Bruce!
Thanks for sharing the whole project with us. I really like the flag detail in your original carving. It looks like the scan picked up that detail very nicely as well....
Happy Carving!
Ron
Very Nice work Capt Bruce!
Thanks for sharing the whole project with us. I really like the flag detail in your original carving. It looks like the scan picked up that detail very nicely as well....
Happy Carving!
Ron
To order the "Made in USA" Rock Chuck, and other custom tools and accessories I make for your CarveWright, see my website by clicking here -> http://www.cw-parts.com
See a quick video of the new Rock Chuck in action here!
Read up on QC Removal for stubborn chucks here
See the Rock install video here
You can also visit here for discussion content.
Email me by clicking here
set at optimum might help with the flag poles but you may have allready done that.
Thanks Doug, Ron and Tim,
I appreciate your kind words. I thought about using optimum but that would have been an 8 1/2 hour carve instead of 3 1/2 and I wanted to see what the surface quality would be with fairly raw data before I begin cleaning up and tweaking the pattern. The Rock Chuck proves itself a winner again. Thanks again for walking along beside me.
Fair winds,
Capt Bruce
Kinney deSigns http://kinneydesigns.us
CarveWright START U Team Member.
30 year USN SEABEE, the original Weapons of Mass Construction.
Designer Ver 1.187 and 2.007, Ver.3.001 One 2009 B CW w ROCK and a 5th Year Anniversary C CW
Rotary Jig, 2D and 3D, Tracing Probe, DFX and STL Importers
.
set at the highest. it wont make the carve longer. only do it after you have everything designed and are done cause it will slow the computor down some. as far as carving setting at optimum it is unreal no sanding hardly at all. i dont carve anything anymore on anything less than optimum unless its like yours a test just to see. i like it. it should sell too.
Simply beautiful!! I'm glad you worked out the sled design. I have done the same thing for a long time.
I can fit 14.75 in my CW. Don't know if that's normal but it's always been. So I have a 14.5 sled and use the blades from two 4 foot T-squares (1/4 thick) as the rails.
But I'm most impressed with your "hand carving" sir!! The CW only copied YOUR fine work. VERY NICE!!
Christopher Neil Albrecht
Occasional Carvings
Just A Flowing With The Grain
Ver. 1.187 on XP Pro Desktop
Ver. 1.187 on Win. 7/64 Laptop
Patterns At The Depot
Capt Bruce...
Forgive me for getting off on a bit of a tangent here, but this applies to something that i notice on your scan v/s your carve of that same detail. From the day i started working with the Probe, it kind of surprised me that the stylus was so sharp and pointy... Here is my theory, anyone feel free to shoot it down if you know any different...
The carving bit we are using has a 1/16 ball tip on it plus the taper on the side of it. So it makes sense to me that any shape that the stylus of the probe picks up would be over cut by any amount bigger the tool is than the stylus. Considering that it is almost a dead sharp point, you are litterally overcutting about 1/32 per side, plus the amount of the taper. It makes sense to me that if the sylus was the same shape as the carving bit, you would get a near exact duplicate of whatever you scan. I think the detail of what you see in the pattern would be far less sharp, but in reality it doesnt make any difference because the tool can only carve as sharp as the tip anyway.. I am thinking about making a nylon sleeve that slips up onto the probe that is the same shape as the tool to test this theory.
How this applies to this thread, is the Captain's comment on having to rework the flag poles. I think this would eliminate the need to do any of the rework..
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ron
To order the "Made in USA" Rock Chuck, and other custom tools and accessories I make for your CarveWright, see my website by clicking here -> http://www.cw-parts.com
See a quick video of the new Rock Chuck in action here!
Read up on QC Removal for stubborn chucks here
See the Rock install video here
You can also visit here for discussion content.
Email me by clicking here
with the plastic glue tips on and it will be worn down to just about the right size as the carving bit.
Ron,
I couldn't have said it better. I'm going to pick up, and try using the same method covering the probe with an extended model airplane glue tips, mentioned in TIMCOSBY and other's posts when I scan my next hand carved piece. That piece of mahogany cannot undergo the surface abrasion the eagle experienced. I'll report the findings so we can compare notes. Thanks as always
Fair winds,
Capt Bruce
Kinney deSigns http://kinneydesigns.us
CarveWright START U Team Member.
30 year USN SEABEE, the original Weapons of Mass Construction.
Designer Ver 1.187 and 2.007, Ver.3.001 One 2009 B CW w ROCK and a 5th Year Anniversary C CW
Rotary Jig, 2D and 3D, Tracing Probe, DFX and STL Importers
.
Ron, I have to agree with you 100% about the 1/16 Rad on the tool vs the probe tip nose rad. When using a tracing attachment on a lathe or VTL we always use the same configuration on the stylis as what the tool is. That is just a common rule in the machine shop for tracing.
Can you tell me if the protective tips that are available on the CW site have the 1/16 nose radius?
Ron I agree with you, if your cutting bit is 1/16 ball nose, then why is the probe so small and sharp. Some of the details the probe picks up will be lost in the carve.
Using Designer 1.187, STL importer, Center line, conforming vectors, scanning probe/PE, and the ROCK chuck.
Eddie