Scanning Assistance Please

[Capt Bruce]

Fellow Forum Rabble,

I finally got past the rush of signs and plaques I've been making (six months of designs built up in Designer while I waited to pay off my machine in Lay A Way). Now I get around to setting up a scanning sled and reading the various posts and instructions/video and I have a problem.

I've long wanted to reproduce an eagle with crossed flags that I designed and carved by hand years ago and it was going to be my first project when I bought a Duplicarver. The CarveWright in the end won out for it's advanced features like scanning. The problem is I'm ready to scan and it's just a bit too big for the CarveWright. Wing to wing tip it is 22.5 inches by 14 inches tall (wide) by 3/4 thick. No way I can see to pass it through on a sled with 13 inch max width.

Looking for ideas or a member/source where I can send the carving and have it accurately scanned, to then scale the pattern down to a board width that will fit into the CarveWright and proceed to make sawdust. I realize I could make larger versions by carving on multiple boards but we'll look at that later.

A view of the carving over my front door.



I'd appreciate any suggestions or leads because I recognize when I just can't "Do It Yourself." Thanks as always and I really appreciate the advice and guidance offered here among friends.

[PCW]

Bruce,

I think you would be able to scan that piece if you use metal angle (L shaped) on the sides of your sled rather than wood. This would give you a little extra clearance. Just a though

[Capt Bruce]

Thanks PCW,

Maybe I'm not reading the prior threads on scanning sleds correctly or my math is off. I saw a prior mention of using metal side rails but I was under the impression that two constraints still applied.

1. The Scanning Sled plan from CW was noted as 14 1/2" max width. If the metal side rails were each say 3/16" thick that's 3/8" from 14 1/2" or max interior width now 14 1/8".

2. The object to be scanned had to be 1/2" away from the inside edges of the sled rails. If the item being scanned must remain 1/2" away from the rails to avoid damage to the probe body then I'm down to a max width (height) of 13 1/8" for the 14" tall eagle & flags.

Q. Am I reading in too many constraints in trying to design this sled?

Q2. Will a narrow rail top like the metal (3/16") do any harm to the top rollers when they are cranked down to secure the sled for running?

Q3. I intend to use a melamine faced (2 sides) shelf board from HD as the sled body. I read it should have tape applied along the bottom brass-roller edge to give it proper "tooth" for measurement and had planned to also add tape strips to the center and other bottom edge so the sandpaper belt has some tooth as well. Yes or no?

I do appreciate your response and any other thoughts as I learn this craft.

[bjbethke]

Fellow Forum Rabble,

I finally got past the rush of signs and plaques I've been making (six months of designs built up in Designer while I waited to pay off my machine in Lay A Way). Now I get around to setting up a scanning sled and reading the various posts and instructions/video and I have a problem.

I've long wanted to reproduce an eagle with crossed flags that I designed and carved by hand years ago and it was going to be my first project when I bought a Duplicarver. The CarveWright in the end won out for it's advanced features like scanning. The problem is I'm ready to scan and it's just a bit too big for the CarveWright. Wing to wing tip it is 22.5 inches by 14 inches tall (wide) by 3/4 thick. No way I can see to pass it through on a sled with 13 inch max width.

Looking for ideas or a member/source where I can send the carving and have it accurately scanned, to then scale the pattern down to a board width that will fit into the CarveWright and proceed to make sawdust. I realize I could make larger versions by carving on multiple boads but we'll look at that later.

A view of the carving over my front door.



I'd appreciate any suggestions or leads because I recognize when I just can't "Do It Yourself." Thanks as always and I really appreciate the advice and guidance offered here among friends.

I would not think you would be able to make a direct scan the 13 inches, I think the scanning probe would hit the edges of your scanning sled. I think you would need to make an undercut in the side rails to fit the tail and scan it in two parts. It would be very easy to put those parts together in the Pattern Editor. Maybe lots of pain but Your a “Capt Bruce” and most Capt's can do a lot do things, you keep us all safe.

[c6craig]

Capt Bruce,

Since it doesn't look like that piece is exactly square, could you build the max size sled and fit your piece in diagonally?

Craig

[mtylerfl]

Capt Bruce,

One approach might be to use your band saw (or scroll saw or hand coping saw) and cut the eagle free from the flag and scan the two pieces separately. Carefully done, you shouldn't have any trouble gluing, filling and re-painting the pieces back together.

Be aware that the probe will likely 'scratch' the paint as it scans, so it's probable you will need to do some touch-up after the fact anyway.

Yet another approach is contact www.go3D.us and see if they can make a pattern for you based on your photo!

[PCW]

Hi Capt,

I'm not the best person to answer your questions on scanning because I have not done much of it. I just remember the post where the L sides was suggested. I was just putting the idea out there.

By the way nice job on the original.

[Nighthawk12]

If you look at the rollers they are 17" wide. You could route out the bottom on each side of the sled enought to clear the guide plates. and make the sled wider than 14.5 and still have 3/4" wide side rails I wouldn't try to carve like this but scaning it might work.

[TIMCOSBY]

and you can scan right up to the angle iron with out a problem. i would use some kind of plywood instead of the melamine it is pretty slick on the bottom or get one sided melamine. if it will go in the sled with 1/8" to spare on each side you are good to go i just did it. once you get the plastic tip glued on set the probe down next to the side and check to see if it clears the body. i ground down that little lip on the top of the tip too to get all the side clearance i could.

[DocWheeler]

Just a thought - if the sled was shallow, say 1", then the "body" of the probe would not be a problem perhaps.