Bit Height consistency with the Rock

[ralphhood3]

So after 7wks of being without my compucarve I finally got it back from Sears and got my Rock Chuck installed for the first time. Lucky for me there was absolutely no locktite on the quick chuck so the install took less than 2 minutes and didn't require any heat.

My first carve after the repair and with the rock was for an address sign which required the carving bit and then the cutting bit to cut the final outer circumfrence of the sign.

My question is how does everyone deal with the bit height change that the machine detects when you change bits during the carve? Since you have to insert the cutting bit initially and then the carve bit for it to test, then after the carving is done it asks for the cutting bit and when it checks the height no matter how careful I am it comes back and tells me it doesn't match and I can re-measure or continue. I tried re-measure a few times but it kept telling me the same thing. I finally selected continue and it seemed to finish the cut ok, although the tabs for the auto-jig seemed to be a lot thinner than normal.

Is it safe to just always select "continue" when this happens, or should I be doing something to guarantee the bit is the right height? If so, how do I guarantee the bit height since the bit doesn't bottom out in the rock and eyeballing it doesn't seem to be accurate enough.

Thanks
Ralph

[AskBud]

A small, light weight and balanced collar is what some use on each bit used in the Rock Chuck.
AskBud
http://forum.carvewright.com/showpos...7&postcount=54

[scamp62]

Have had the same issues with my CW “but I will not give up my Rock Chuck…never !”...so
O.K. I will ask……
“Ware dose one get such A small, light weight and balanced collar ??
Thanks for any info you can provide !!

[AskBud]

I just returned from my local hardware store where I did a quick check of various items that might work as a collar on the 1/4" shank. I tried rubber, metal, and Polly washers as well as a Plumbing Farrel. Each had its own unique problem which ruled them out for the present time.

I, also, had started with a common O-Ring. I returned to this O-Ring as the best possible choice from this particular store. I realize that it may be no good to reuse for the next project as it may be damaged by the generated heat of the bit. But, it is only necessary to assure that the first and second measurement are the same.

I also know that some members have used plastic tubing to make their own O-Rings, but I was looking for something I could expect to be fairly balanced rather than having to make precise cuts in the tubing.
AskBud

[scamp62]

Great idea Bud ! you really don’t need to leave the tubing on the bit during the cut !!
Just have it on for set up and then slid it off after you reinstall the cutting bit !!
I can make this work !!
thanks !!

[ralphhood3]

Thanks for the tip on the o-ring / collar, I hadn't even thought about that. The other comment about not needing them to be on there once the bit is in the machine is good too, I might think about just slipping a small aligator clip or something like that on there that's easy to take on and off without damaging the bit. My big fingers probably wouldn't be able to slide a collar off the bit once it's seated in the rock.

BTW, I agree after getting my first carve done with the Rock I wouldn't trade it. My only regret is that I should have gotten the 1/2" collar instead of the 1/4". Stupid me rushed and got the 1/4" which was all that RJustice had in stock before Christmas and then my machine died before I got it. In the end I could have waited and picked up the 1/2" collar kit when he had them back in stock. If anybody wants a deal on a 1/4" collar so I can upgrade to the 1/2" let me know

[Digitalwoodshop]

I am using the 1/4 and 1/2 inch rings with great results.


http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502775 1/4 inch

http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502776 1/2 inch

There are a few Router Bit places selling them.

The setscrew replaces the metal that is drilled out.... I don't worry about balance with the offset from the shaft being less than a 1/2 inch....

Lots of posts on this topic if you want to search out advice of others.

Use "locking rings" with the " " and you will get a bunch of good info.... There is a flat spot in the 1/8 inch cut path bit. It is possible to get the flat spot in the wrong area with the rock chuck and later the bit will come loose.

AL

[RMarkey]

The reload/continue option when loading bits during a project is only meant as a warning message. It simply says that the bit does not touch the bit plate at the same height as it did the first time you loaded it. Pressing continue will use the new height from the current touch.

If you follow the directions with the machine, you should never see this message. If you see it, there is a problem.

[AskBud]

The reload/continue option when loading bits during a project is only meant as a warning message. It simply says that the bit does not touch the bit plate at the same height as it did the first time you loaded it. Pressing continue will use the new height from the current touch.

Remember that in the case of the QC, this could mean that the adapter is not seated properly!
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Remember that in the case of the QC, this could mean that the adapter is not seated properly!
AskBud

That is a VERY True statement.... The only time I had the machine THROW a V60 Bit at me was when I ignored the message with a QC and said to continue.... If you get that message with the QC, ALWAYS remove and reset the bit...

AL