Bit stops with Rock Chuck

[sparky]

My QC finally gave up, so I ordered the rock chuck.(haven't received it yet) I have read a few post about how to repeat putting the bits into the rock at same length each time. (bit stops,o-ring,under size tubing,etc.) I am wondering if this is necessary or does the machine measuring the bits take care of this problem?

[dbfletcher]

My QC finally gave up, so I ordered the rock chuck.(haven't received it yet) I have read a few post about how to repeat putting the bits into the rock at same length each time. (bit stops,o-ring,under size tubing,etc.) I am wondering if this is necessary or does the machine measuring the bits take care of this problem?

You'll probably get a 50/50 split on this. Some of us are not using any type of bit stops at all with the rock and there is probably an equal number of members who swear by them. My advice is to try it without the stops first... and if you find yourself wishing you had them, buy them at that point. For all of your bits, you want to have no more than 1/8-3/16" between the top most cutting flute on the bit and the bottom of the rock chuck. Also make sure you understand the correct orientation of the sleaves and/or flats on the bits in relation to the locking nut on the rock. If you are not sure, please ask (or search.. ron has posted pics several times)

I am confident you will wonder why you waited to get the rock for so long once you start using it.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[sparky]

I think I'll take your advice and try without anything on bits. Thanks again for your advice. This forum and all the great people that make it up are very helpful!!

[dbfletcher]

I think I'll take your advice and try without anything on bits. Thanks again for your advice. This forum and all the great people that make it up are very helpful!!

Please make sure you fully understand how the machine will react with out bit stops as well. If you not using them, there is really no point in going thru all the bit changes at the start of the project. I typically just leave the carving bit in since that is the last one to be measured and the first one used. When prompted to change bits during the carve, after inserting the correct bit, you can safely chose "continue" when the machine prompts about the bit depth not matching. Hope that helps,

Also, although this method works fine currently, there is no gaurentee that this will remain the case in future firmware revisions.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[Wilbur]

I agree with this. I do it all the time and it has always worked for me.

Wilbur

[rjustice]

I support the fact that they are really not needed (now)... As Doug stated, they could change the firmware to react differently, so when it does change, it needs to be checked again carefully.

Thanks for the responses Doug and Wilbur

Happy Carving,

Ron

[Shawnf2]

I just made a basic L out of a piece of wood 1 1/2 inches from base to top use it everytime quick and easy,for v-bits i use 1/4 dremel sand drum tubes that i slide down the shank work great just leave them on.

Shawn

[Shacky]

Please make sure you fully understand how the machine will react with out bit stops as well. If you not using them, there is really no point in going thru all the bit changes at the start of the project. I typically just leave the carving bit in since that is the last one to be measured and the first one used. When prompted to change bits during the carve, after inserting the correct bit, you can safely chose "continue" when the machine prompts about the bit depth not matching. Hope that helps,

Also, although this method works fine currently, there is no gaurentee that this will remain the case in future firmware revisions.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

I never thought of that. Here I have been changing all the bits and there really is no reason to during the run-through.

[Digitalwoodshop]

What works for me is the 1/4 and 1/2 inch bearing stops. Rings with set screws.

It will be VERY important when you install what ever stop you decide to do.... that you make sure you do the 1/8 inch bit correctly.

There is a FLAT Spot on the 1/8 inch cut path bit. It is possible that when you install your bit stop that it could be at a the height that lets the ROCK Wedge Lock clamp down on the edge of the flat spot. In this condition the bit could come loose in the ROCK Chuck. I had a bit come loose because of this..

What I did the next time I installed the Ring was take the wedge out of the ROCK and look inside and make sure the flat spot was higher then the wedge.

Here is a website to buy the rings.

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-router...852205_2547+86

Good Luck,

AL

Another " search " free post.

[earlyrider]

Rubber O rings with a spot of superglue works well also. A thought regarding the wedge- on bits with the notch, you can mark a line on the shaft (aligning with the notch) long enough to be seen while you are installing the bit, to position the notch where it will miss the wedge.
Ron