The Classic Round Wall Clock - Project of the Month

[mtylerfl]

I have had limited experience with sanding sealer, but when I did use it, it went on very much like quick drying varnish. I am surprised that you can stain after it goes on and hence my question. Now I know. Thanks.

Hi Shacky,

I started using the shellac-based sealer to help oil stains apply more evenly on softwoods such as pine. It has the added benefit that it aids in removing fuzzies, too, since it 'stiffens' the fuzzies so they sand off more easily. Some sealers do not help at all as far as fuzzy removal...Cabot-brand sealer is an example. After application of Cabot sealer, any stain has to be applied immediately. Cabot sealer is not intended to allow to dry like the Bullseye/Zinnser or any other shellac-based sealers.

A shellac-based seal coat must be applied very lightly (Bullseye Sanding Sealer - thinned/one very light coat...2 parts sealer/3 parts Denatured Alcohol), or it will tend to seal the wood too much, making stain penetration difficult.

However, it is sometimes desirable to REALLY seal the wood completely if you are applying a "glaze" technique to your projects. A fellow named Tim Merrill outlines his glazing technique for wood carvings in his PDF available at the following link. (I had the great pleasure to meet and talk with him in person at the recent Aspire User's Group conference in Philadelphia in November 2009.)

http://www.vectric.com/forum/download/file.php?id=12581

I have used gel stains for a pseudo glaze effect - i.e., dry brushing, etc. to simulate the grain of a hardwood when using over pine. I sort of did that on my own Sailboat Project. The gel hid the pine grain on the base and looked more like a hardwood-grain when finished. Experimentation is part of the fun for me.

[RayTrek]

Hi Michael
Thanks for the finishing tips, I am always learning something new from you.
Ray.