Carving a radius

[pine acres woodshop]

Here I calculated it for you if you need it 3-3/4" wide. The height would be 999 and the depth would be .187 then invert.

[Fletcher]

The mpc file that I posted earlier is a true 9.5 inch radius over a 3.75 inch width, and 28 inches long. You should be able to pull the pattern you need from that file and add it to yours...

[hogiewan]

Quick reminder - it would probably take longer to carve this with the cw than to sand down the board with a radius block, not to mention the expense the the machine, wear & tear on the machine and bits, and the electricity vs that of a radius block, sandpaper, and whatever you ate to provide your body the calories (even if we all have plenty of those stored to spare).

What's my point? If all you are doing is creating the radius and you are not milling parts that are nearly finished, you are wasting time and money. Now if you were doing a compound radius, it might make sense, but I don't think you can do that in designer.

[ChrisAlb]

Quick reminder - it would probably take longer to carve this with the cw than to sand down the board with a radius block, not to mention the expense the the machine, wear & tear on the machine and bits, and the electricity vs that of a radius block, sandpaper, and whatever you ate to provide your body the calories (even if we all have plenty of those stored to spare).

What's my point? If all you are doing is creating the radius and you are not milling parts that are nearly finished, you are wasting time and money. Now if you were doing a compound radius, it might make sense, but I don't think you can do that in designer.

I don't know too much about shaping fret boards but I'd agree with most this (as far as time and expense). However, I do believe you can create compound radius's with Designer. Grouping and merging different domes is the way. It's hard to get the right angle for the picture to show it well but I've also attached the MPC as a demo. This is a very simple example but with enough experimenting, more complex ones can be done as well. Created in 1.134

I know this isn't directly related to the OP's question but just as an add on...lol

Hope it helps

[pine acres woodshop]

That's pretty fancy Chris, but the compound radius he is referring to is a radius along the same length, in the same direction, where on one end the radius would be, let’s say a 12" radius and on the other end would be a 9.5" radius. If that makes sense.

[ChrisAlb]

That's pretty fancy Chris, but the compound radius he is referring to is a radius along the same length, in the same direction, where on one end the radius would be, let’s say a 12" radius and on the other end would be a 9.5" radius. If that makes sense.

Makes perfect sense Mark. By changing the parameters of each of those regions and stretching them out to the needed length and width, it can be done. As I said, that's a "very simple" example. If I knew the exact design dimensions and radius requirements, I'll bet I could do it...LOL

And how the heck have you been buddy?? Long time sir!

[pine acres woodshop]

I've been good thanks for asking. How about yourself?

[ChrisAlb]

I've been good thanks for asking. How about yourself?

Still facing some real challenges....still fighting...LOL...

[pine acres woodshop]

This would kind of be how it would look, it would just blend in better.

[BigShred]

Okay, now let me get to the nitty gritty. The real reason why I'm pursuing this line of inquiry.

I'm trying to design a compound radius fretboard, but not compound from nut to heel, but compound from low E to high E, top to bottom.

Here's an image of what I am trying to achieve:



I want the top to start with a 9.5 straight radius and blend into a 11.5" radius on the higher strings (G, B and E). There's a lot of explanation as to how it is of benefit to a lead player, but I'll spare all those justifications and details.

So far I'm thinking of scanning a 9.5" radius fretboard (Fender Strat) and an 11.5" radius fretboard (PRS Santana) and then cutting each image down the middle then joining them. That's one option, but there's a little problem. I haven't succeeded in building a scanning sled that works with guitar necks :/

So if I can design this without having to scan the necks it'd be a heck of a time saver.

Thanks for all the feedback and fabulous examples. You are all fantastic.